Fish Quarantine / Observation Tank

tylertheman

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New to the hobby here. Been doing research over the last two years and am finally getting started. I would like your opinions on what I have in mind for a quarantine/observation setup for fish. Here is my plan: 40 breeder with Tidal 55. No mechanical filtration, just plastic bioballs from cycled display. After QT bioballs with be sanitized in bleach, then back to display sump for re-seeding. Heater and cheap powerhead for flow and extra oxygenation. Ammonia badge as well. My idea is to observe the fish for 2-4 weeks for signs of disease and treat only if necessary. Prazipro and Copper on hand if needed. Humblefish is my resource for that. I'd rather not treat prophylactically as I am new to this. All QT equipment is dedicated to QT and none will go to the display except the bioballs. I'll monitor ammonia and do large water changes to manage it.
 

polyppal

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Sounds like a solid game plan, I just toss the media after its use in the QT, but if you bleached it and dried it out before adding back to the DT then nothing nasty would survive

I would consider hyposalinity with your fish, also a humblefish protocol. It works extremely well and is very low stress on the fish (particularly compared to copper). You can almost guarantee they are already exposed to Ich... Also Prazipro is easy on the fish and basically a simple to perform treatment that is almost always necessary.

 
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adittam

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Sounds like a pretty good plan, the only consideration I would have is if a 40 breeder is necessary for a QT tank? If it were me, I'd use a 20 long, because then you only have to do half the volume for water changes and medication doses. A 20 long is plenty big enough for most fish for a 30-day period. Also, remember to pick up a few PVC elbows and/or T's for the fish to hide in and keep them as stress-free as possible.
 
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BVF

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Sounds like a pretty good plan, the only consideration I would have is if a 40 breeder is necessary for a QT tank? If it were me, I'd use a 20 long, because then you only have to do half the volume for water changes and medication doses. A 20 long is plenty big enough for most fish for a 30-day period. Also, remember to pick up a few PVC elbows and/or T's for the fish to hide in and keep them as stress-free as possible.
That’s what I have, with a Fluval 406 canister filter for some additional water and good flow.

CC3558C4-6B44-49FC-A81D-F83F42F5207A.jpeg
 
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tylertheman

tylertheman

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I did forget to mention the pvc elbows and tees. Lid as well. Got those steady to go. Good point about using a 20 long. It would save on water changes. I have a spare 20 long I can use. I was thinking bigger for multiple fish. At some point I plan to add some tangs. I want them to go into the display at the same time to reduce aggression. Figured the 40B would have more space for them. I guess I can just use whichever tank suits the need best.
 
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adittam

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I did forget to mention the pvc elbows and tees. Lid as well. Got those steady to go. Good point about using a 20 long. It would save on water changes. I have a spare 20 long I can use. I was thinking bigger for multiple fish. At some point I plan to add some tangs. I want them to go into the display at the same time to reduce aggression. Figured the 40B would have more space for them. I guess I can just use whichever tank suits the need best.
Of course bigger is better for multiple fish, but as long as the fish have hiding places, I don't think there will be much difference in aggression between the 20 long and 40 breeder. To be honest, you'll have to keep a close eye on aggression issues with multiple tangs in either of those tanks at the same time.
 
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