Frogspawn not opening, any tips?

[Richie1898]

I’ve had this frogspawn for about a month now and it opened great for the first week and a half, but not she’s closed up. My Alk and parameters seem to be perfect. I tried moving it down to the sand bed to get less light and more flow, opened half way and then closed up. Now I have it under some of my rock work in the shade. Not sure what else to try. Any tips?

 

[Nigel35]

Is there anything else bothering it, like a fish/inverts nipping at it? It could be that when it starts to open up something nips it so it closes up. You could try a cage to put it in and see how that goes. IF it starts to open up without disturbance than problem solved.

 

[Richie1898]

I have a six-line wrasse that likes to nip things but I haven’t seen any of my fish mess with it. He usually just patrols the tank

 

[homer1475]

Water parameters(real numbers, not "seem to be perfect"), and a picture in white lights would help us help you.

 

[Richie1898]

I’m colorblind sorry, I’ll put the white lights on and test fresh here in a second

 

[homer1475]

Also what lights, and if LED's what percentages your running them at.

 

[Richie1898]

It’s a hipargero aqua knight 30w and I’m pretty sure it’s at 80-100%

 

[Richie1898]

Water parameters(real numbers, not "seem to be perfect"), and a picture in white lights would help us help you.

 

[Richie1898]

Here’s with the whites on

 

[Richie1898]

Here’s my params, alk is 9.2

 

[homer1475]

0 nitrates is nit good. Any idea what your phosphate levels are?

Also now that I reread the OP, more light and less flow would be better then less light and more flow. If moving it down gave you less light and MORE flow, move it back up to more light and LESS flow. You don;t want it whipping around, but a little flow so the tentacles just "wiggle" in the current is how they typically like it.

 

[Richie1898]

0 nitrates is nit good. Any idea what your phosphate levels are?

Also now that I reread the OP, more light and less flow would be better then less light and more flow. If moving it down gave you less light and MORE flow, move it back up to more light and LESS flow. You don;t want it whipping around, but a little flow so the tentacles just "wiggle" in the current is how they typically like it.

 

[Richie1898]

0 nitrates is nit good. Any idea what your phosphate levels are?

Also now that I reread the OP, more light and less flow would be better then less light and more flow. If moving it down gave you less light and MORE flow, move it back up to more light and LESS flow. You don;t want it whipping around, but a little flow so the tentacles just "wiggle" in the current is how they typically like it.

It appears to be just below 0.25 ppm! And I’ll turn down the wave maker and place him up higher

 

[homer1475]

Thats not phosphates(po4), and typical API color for 0 ammonia in saltwater. Nothing to worry over.

I think you'll find more light and less flow more helpful then a chemical issue.

Although 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates is not good either and can cause them to wither away and die without the building blocks of life.

 

[Richie1898]

Thats not phosphates(po4), and typical API color for 0 ammonia in saltwater. Nothing to worry over.

I think you'll find more light and less flow more helpful then a chemical issue.

Although 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates is not good either and can cause them to wither away and die without the building blocks of life.

I am also dosing soda ash and calcium chloride, I’ll order a phosphate test to see, he’s opened up a little since posting this

 

[Tundra Cuttle]

It looks like your ammonia is at .5ppm.

 

[Rscott]

Any luck on other this? I have the same issue?

 

[Reefer Drew]

Any luck on other this? I have the same issue?

When I have Euphyllia that normally don't open and my paramaters are fine, I like to dip in revive or coral RX to see if there are any flatworms or other pests that might be bothering it. Good luck!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Any luck on other this? I have the same issue?

It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

 

[Javierati]

this is happening to my frogspawn. Polyps are not extending as usual.
parameters are as shown. The only difference is that after last water change the Mg for some reason dropped from 1450 to 1320 suddenly. Asked the aquarium specialist who did the change and he could pin point anything in particular.
also the ORP dropped to below 100 and stayed low for a day or so. Usually ORP runs above 200 in my tank.