GHA problem

Reefing Madness

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I swear by the nopox. A phosphate sponge is only as good as it's limit of phosphate absorption and if not removed it begins to release the po4 back into your system. I don't think the loss if your fish and shrimp will contribute much or at all. Keep using the reactor and it should solve your problem. If I see po4 in my test results I dose my tank with this product and it removes them in 24hr or less.
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1392232801.658979.jpg
Try this one instead.
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Sdoutreefer

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Just an update, but I have started dosing NoPox. I am dosing 3ml/day. I am kind of unsure what to dose because I can't seem to tell what my No3 level is. My Salifert test kit is difficult to read. I just bought it yesterday and might return it and get the Red Sea test kit.The reading was barely pink, but there is a ton of GHA in my tank so I know it is there.
 
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It's been 3 days since starting the NoPox dosing. So far, a lot of the hair algae has started turning white, from the tips down. It hasn't turned completely white yet, but it is definately changing colors. Some of the algae is starting to turn brown. I'm thinking this stuff might work!
 
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The NoPox has yet to make a visible impact on the tank. GHA is growing quickly and at this point I'm lost on what to do. Scrubbing rocks doesn't seem to be helping as the algae just sprouts back in a couple of weeks. I found what appeared to be AEFW on some acro frags. If AEFW take over, I might just throw in the towel and restart.

Not sure how that post above this one got there but.... disregard haha
 
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SantaMonica

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Could not read the whole thread, but maybe this will help:

Never want to scrub rocks; that just removes your filter (periphyton and gha). Instead, the more that grows on your rocks, the more phosphate is being pulled out of the rocks. You just need to increase your exports. Longer answer:

Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients come from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on them consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crew, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)
 
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Could not read the whole thread, but maybe this will help:

Never want to scrub rocks; that just removes your filter (periphyton and gha). Instead, the more that grows on your rocks, the more phosphate is being pulled out of the rocks. You just need to increase your exports. Longer answer:

Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients come from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on them consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crew, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)

Thank you for the reply. I'm not trying to sound arrogant so please don't think I am, lol, but I've dealt with GHA and know what it needs to thrive and how to kill it. Except for this tank. I have no idea what is going on. Before carbon dosing, I hardly fed. Like maybe twice a week. And the algae still thrived. I've scrubbed my rock numerous times (yes, out of the tank, in a bucket of water and rinsed thoroughly after) and it'd start to appear the next week or so. I grow chaeto, and whatever other algae is growing in my fuge. I've never trimmed my chaeto because it has never gotten big enough to need a trim. Maybe trimming would help promote growth??

I have a skimmer rated for twice the size of my tank and skim 24/7.

Not sure if you read about when I started NoPox, but I was certain that it was going to kill off the algae. It started turning white within the first week. That was short lived... it started turning brown and I figured the NoPox was clearing out No3 so Po4 was taking its place. I've read NoPox takes longer to reduce Po4... but now it's green again and there's more than ever.

I increased my CUC with 4? maybe 5 turbos and 5? margaritas. I can't remember exactly how many. Also put in an urchin. They aren't interested in the stuff... yet.

I increased my WC schedule, but was going through too much salt so now I'm back to 10g/week, which should be plenty...

I've tried blacking out my tank. I've tried reducing my photo period and changing light spectrum. Hell, I even put in a seahare that was demolished by my 2 peppermint shrimps the night I put the little guy in there.

After my tank cycled, I received a frag with byropsis. The byropsis took off like wildfire. I never thought I'd beat it because of all the horror stories I've read about it, but after only a couple of months it was gone. I figured if I can beat byropsis, I can beat just about anything.

So, needless to say, I'm extremely frustrated and have lost almost all enjoyment with my tank. The GHA and discovering I have flat worms/red bugs two days ago, throwing in the towel might be my next move.

I don't like to get beaten... no matter what scenario. I've never torn down a tank because of something like this. It's usually life that makes me tear it down.

Sorry I just wrote a fricken novel, but it seems like everyone on Reef2Reef has an understanding and appreciation to reefing.
 

SantaMonica

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I've scrubbed my rock numerous times (yes, out of the tank, in a bucket of water and rinsed thoroughly after) and it'd start to appear the next week or so.

Scrubbing just removes the filtering organisms from the rocks; it does not remove the nutrients (phosphate) from the rocks. Worse, it kills the animals that were living in the rock, which frees more more nutrients within the rocks, which will come out of the rocks and fuel even more algae. Scrubbing is the worst thing you can do.

Maybe trimming [chaeto] would help promote growth??

Stronger lights and flow.

skim 24/7

But a skimmer does not remove any nutrients.


I only saw that you tried it, but not the details. If nopox is carbon dosing, then it could work.

WC schedule

If you think about it, a WC is a small percentage reduction, and only once a week. It does work though.

blacking out my tank

Almost as bad as scrubbing the rocks. It kills the filtering organisms (periphyton) living on the rocks, but at least the life inside the rocks stays alive. The more of the natural filtering you kill, the more nutrients stay in the rock, giving more fuel to the gha on the rocks.

The byropsis took off like wildfire

This is the first real clue I've seen. No algae can take off without nutrients. You may not have a high standing level of nutrients, but you do have a high flowing level of them, and the are flowing right by the bryopsis. They dying of the bryopsis was an indicator that phosphate was being used up out of the rocks.

The solution is counter-intuitive: Let everything grow on the rocks, don't scrub anything, increase your DT photopheriod to strengthen the natural filter on the rocks, and wait six months. Oh, and check your TDS :)
 
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Sdoutreefer

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Scrubbing just removes the filtering organisms from the rocks; it does not remove the nutrients (phosphate) from the rocks. Worse, it kills the animals that were living in the rock, which frees more more nutrients within the rocks, which will come out of the rocks and fuel even more algae. Scrubbing is the worst thing you can do.



Stronger lights and flow.
-how strong of flow??


But a skimmer does not remove any nutrients.



I only saw that you tried it, but not the details. If nopox is carbon dosing, then it could work.
-NoPox is a form of carbon dosing. Have been dosing 2.5ml/day. Every review I've read of people using it said it cleared up their GHA in a month to two months.


If you think about it, a WC is a small percentage reduction, and only once a week. It does work though.
-that is why I increased my WC percentage and schedule. It's still increased from what I normally do, but isn't up to 20g/week like I had been doing it. I figured a 50% water change weekly for 2 months would decrease my algae.


Almost as bad as scrubbing the rocks. It kills the filtering organisms (periphyton) living on the rocks, but at least the life inside the rocks stays alive. The more of the natural filtering you kill, the more nutrients stay in the rock, giving more fuel to the gha on the rocks.
-Are you sure those bacterias on the right are photosynthetic? I guess I never thought about them feeding off light.



This is the first real clue I've seen. No algae can take off without nutrients. You may not have a high standing level of nutrients, but you do have a high flowing level of them, and the are flowing right by the bryopsis. They dying of the bryopsis was an indicator that phosphate was being used up out of the rocks.

The solution is counter-intuitive: Let everything grow on the rocks, don't scrub anything, increase your DT photopheriod to strengthen the natural filter on the rocks, and wait six months. Oh, and check your TDS :)

I beat byropsis with GFO and scrubbing off my rock whenever it started showing up again. It was easy to take the rock out because I didn't have much for coral then.

My photoperiod was this:
Blues on at 7am, ramping up to 75% by noon. Staying at 75% until 6pm and ramping down every hour until turning completely off at 11pm. I thought that my photoperiod may have been causing the issue because of how long they were on. I've been waiting since the end of last September for the algae to go away. My TDS never gets above 2.

The NoPox instructions say to not run GFO while dosing because, and im assuming this is why, it will reduce the bacterial colonies, but I'm seriously considering putting my GFO back online.

Some replies are in your quote... i was trying to do what you did but i obviously failed hehe
 
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Themonsterisme

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I had GHA in 2 different tanks and used a upflow algae scrubber on both and within 2-3 weeks the GHA was gone in my display for good and only in the scrubber from that day forward...would you rather dose each day or scrape off algae on the screen in the scrubber every 2 weeks for 3-5 min and be done with the headaches?
 
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Just build a algae scrubber already then this thread won't be 50 pages long

It's only 9... :D


I had GHA in 2 different tanks and used a upflow algae scrubber on both and within 2-3 weeks the GHA was gone in my display for good and only in the scrubber from that day forward...would you rather dose each day or scrape off algae on the screen in the scrubber every 2 weeks for 3-5 min and be done with the headaches?

I honestly don't think I have room anywhere for a scrubber. My sump is built terribly and there's barely any room for a small reactor. And ya I'd rather scrape off algae, obviously. I do like the coloration that has come with dosing tho..
 
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I guess I don't understand the science behind a scrubber. Maybe I should research more but how does the algae on your rock just go away and only grow on the scrubber? It doesn't seem possible in my mind.
 

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Click on Santa Monica's name and look up his threads under "lowest cost way to eliminate bubble,hair and turf algae"...Santa Monica I hope you don't mind me sharing your info
 

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Hi. I use nopox & phos reactor together since day one. I didn't have GHA in DT but heaps in 6 foot long overflow. Been 6 week now and all GONE ! I still use rowa phos but just change it far less often and readings so low now I probably could stop it altogether. I contacted Red Sea and although the instructions say not to run reactor at same time u actually can with no real issues. ! Hope this helps !
 
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Hi. I use nopox & phos reactor together since day one. I didn't have GHA in DT but heaps in 6 foot long overflow. Been 6 week now and all GONE ! I still use rowa phos but just change it far less often and readings so low now I probably could stop it altogether. I contacted Red Sea and although the instructions say not to run reactor at same time u actually can with no real issues. ! Hope this helps !

Awesome thanks for the heads up! I'll definitely be putting GFO back online
 
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The GHA never went away. Tore the tank down a couple years ago. Going to start something new up in the near future. Stay tuned.
 

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