Got a Dinos problem, could this be the answer.

Nate Chalk

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Sounds like every tank is different and unique.
Precisely
I had this oxydator for a year or so. Zero effect on anything, including the dinos. Ill buy a true ozone reactor.

What helped to beat dinos, is rising nitrates and add all kind of bacteria including the piece of live rock.
Also doing this.... Live rock tomorrow from a healthy tank/ocean. nitrates and phos up :)

Blue lights only

h202 dosing

manual removal
 

BurgerFish

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With bacteria dosing and nitrates up dinos gonna disappear, sooner or later.
 

hart24601

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They could do by adding more catalysts.
I guess but it’s a bit silly at that point to take the container out daily to weigh what was pushed out of the device and adjust by adding bits of catalyst to find the right amount to keep Peroxide concentration in the target range just to refill the little containers daily or near so if using all the the largest.

vs program a 1 head doser for 70ml (or more - 140ml at 6%, 240ml at standard 3%)

but yes, technically I suppose one could for some reason
 

taricha

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I was dosing straight peroxide in my system for combating velvet which worked, 70ml a day of 12% peroxide. Before and after the direct dosing I was running 2 oxidators.

Using test strips peroxide concentration was 1-3ppm steady. Held that a couple months.
Did you ever detect H2O2 in the water (strips or otherwise) just from the oxydator alone - not adding the peroxide directly to the water?
 

hart24601

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Did you ever detect H2O2 in the water (strips or otherwise) just from the oxydator alone - not adding the peroxide directly to the water?

nope, they don’t put out much peroxide and it’s reacted quickly. Even the direct dosing of peroxide only made levels barely detectable to my strips.

Edit- I just refilled the 2 A’s yesterday and tested the water right above them. Not enough to measure on the strips but they are not low range.

9BE29009-565F-40DF-A382-85771D41F74C.jpeg
 
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taricha

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nope, they don’t put out much peroxide and it’s reacted quickly. Even the direct dosing of peroxide only made levels barely detectable to my strips.
thanks, I thought that might be the answer.

I messed around with some h2o2 strips on my system this past week and found that any amount that shifted the color on the strips also caused a retracted polyp response from my green star polyp. So basically my GSP is a peroxide test strip I guess. :)
 

hart24601

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thanks, I thought that might be the answer.

I messed around with some h2o2 strips on my system this past week and found that any amount that shifted the color on the strips also caused a retracted polyp response from my green star polyp. So basically my GSP is a peroxide test strip I guess. :)
Haha that works. Not as well for me. This older pic was my branching gsp with 1-3 ppm in water.
76421DE5-E046-46D1-8DCA-A7FA001619E2.jpeg
 

hart24601

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Of course I want to point out how variable systems are and no one should dose peroxide without test strips and lots of research and even then I did only from desperation. I don’t want someone to crash their tank off my posts
 
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I guess but it’s a bit silly at that point to take the container out daily to weigh what was pushed out of the device and adjust by adding bits of catalyst to find the right amount to keep Peroxide concentration in the target range just to refill the little containers daily or near so if using all the the largest.

vs program a 1 head doser for 70ml (or more - 140ml at 6%, 240ml at standard 3%)

but yes, technically I suppose one could for some reason

No need to remove daily. You do it to see how much of the 250cc is used. Then you have a ball park figure and replenish the peroxide once approximately every 3 to 4 days. Replenishing my oxydator takes me 2 minutes.
If that's so much of a chore then by all means add you peroxide directly using a doser as long as you can trust it not to go wrong and cause a tank crash. Each to their own I guess both will work.
 

hart24601

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No need to remove daily. You do it to see how much of the 250cc is used. Then you have a ball park figure and replenish the peroxide once approximately every 3 to 4 days. Replenishing my oxydator takes me 2 minutes.
If that's so much of a chore then by all means add you peroxide directly using a doser as long as you can trust it not to go wrong and cause a tank crash. Each to their own I guess both will work.

Sure, I would like to see how well maintaining 1-2ppm would work with oxidator and if it’s really not that much work refining the catalyst amount to produce exactly what you want then of course refill when they are empty which again needs to be tested to see how long it would work and if as the oxidator runs it maintains constant output, I doubt it does but maybe. Of course as organic load changes the Peroxide concentration changes too so one then needs to play with the catalyst and or calculate dilutions of the 12% and test and repeat.

or use a doser. To each their own. I know how you love the oxidators but to use them for recreating velvet and potential Dino’s is stretching it
 
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Sure, I would like to see how well maintaining 1-2ppm would work with oxidator and if it’s really not that much work refining the catalyst amount to produce exactly what you want then of course refill when they are empty which again needs to be tested to see how long it would work and if as the oxidator runs it maintains constant output, I doubt it does but maybe. Of course as organic load changes the Peroxide concentration changes too so one then needs to play with the catalyst and or calculate dilutions of the 12% and test and repeat.

or use a doser. To each their own. I know how you love the oxidators but to use them for recreating velvet and potential Dino’s is stretching it
You only set an Oxydator's % of peroxide and number of catalysts up once. The oxydator will produce constant output why wouldn't it.
Most people who claim their Oxydator eliminated Dino’s never test for free peroxide in the DT water, I never have and I have never heard anybody on the Oxydator group say they test for free peroxide in the DT.

The peroxide concentration hardly change as its not diluted in the Oxydator. Peroxide is forced out of the oxydator some O2 is obviously used to cause the pressure but very little is needed.

I make no claims about Oxydators curing velvet or Dinos others have though same with itch.
In 30 plus years of using Oxydator's I have never had velvet, itch or Dino’s. I did get a little cyno at one stage but that disappeared.

I just prefer something as simple as an oxydator, cheap, no electricity, self regulating and just about no chance of failing unlike a doser. Yes I have read the horror stories of dosers failing and an over dose of peroxide can be fatal as I guess you know.
 

hart24601

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You only set an Oxydator's % of peroxide and number of catalysts up once. The oxydator will produce constant output why wouldn't it.
Most people who claim their Oxydator eliminated Dino’s never test for free peroxide in the DT water, I never have and I have never heard anybody on the Oxydator group say they test for free peroxide in the DT.

The peroxide concentration hardly change as its not diluted in the Oxydator. Peroxide is forced out of the oxydator some O2 is obviously used to cause the pressure but very little is needed.
As organics change in the tank one might need to change output - so a constant rate would need to be changed.

is that last part true the Peroxide concentration in the vessel doesn’t change? Isn’t some of the reaction with catalyst produces water that dilutes the peroxide? I’m not sure of the exact reaction but thought it was releasing the extra oxygen from h2o2 into h20. This would essentially dilute the oxidator supply and when using lower percentage peroxide for a long time in them notice production eventually stops and the liquid is just water, but maybe just my exp.

I guess if nothing else you have now heard of a user testing the water for peroxide. Yay for new things!
 

taricha

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I thought I had seen it somewhere, so I poked around to find it.
Here's some data that is pretty confusing - but points to oxydator releasing some tiny amount of H2O2, not just O2 and water.
The key is - H2O2 among oxidizers is unusual, in that it LOWERS the measured ORP in reef tanks. How can an oxidizer lower ORP? The reason is thought to be that ORP is very sensitive to the oxidation state of trace metals in the water. and H2O2 oxidizes some metals (like Fe) but actually reduces others (like Cu). This whole thread is guaranteed to give you a headache, but if you like science mysteries without definitive answers - it's pretty great.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ion-when-adding-h2o2-into-a-saltwater.848998/

Anyway. The oxydator under normal functioning seems to lower ORP from the baseline. In much the same way that a tiny dose of H2O2 does. Here's two posts from Lasse that illustrate...
I have a small aiptasia problem and try to test if I could eliminate them with a H2O2 direct applied on them. I use a syringer and 20 ml 12 % H2O2. I did it during a period there my oxydator was empty. Blue circle - oxidator empty. Red circles - dosing 20 ml 12 % direct in the DT. When my oxidator not in use - my orp have a daly swing of around 100 mV Between -330 to - 430 mV. When dosing the 20 ml H2O2 in the DT - ORP decline (as expected) but return to the daily average in a day.

1658134994940.png



The other day - I fill up the Oxydator again - a dip (red circle) as expected but it stabilize the daily swings on a lower level (as been seen before and blue ring)

1658135508460.png


Its rather obvious that an one time large dose do not affect the ORP levels the same way that a continuous flow of it. I have no explanation for this at all more than the "activation" of the free radicals (H2O2 lose an oxygen atom) may lower the ORP (a reduction process). This should mean that a single dose will soon be activated - but a continuous flow will be continuous "activated" - lower ORP readings

And this one....
New measurements shows a pattern that I suspected before but can´t in an easy way explain. As I have shown before - if I let the oxidator run empty - the dip in ORP when refilling get serve and it takes time for the ORP to recover again. In the chart - timeline to 7/4 shows this. After this I have try to fill up the oxidator close to the time its get empty. from 7/4 and forward. The pattern is a little bit different - the dip is not as deep and the recovery time is shorter. In the graph there is a dip (red circle) that is not caused by refilling - its caused by cleaning of the electrode. Never the less - the graph shows a new pattern. The blue markings shows there the oxydator run empty. The black line yesterday shows that it was refilled before it was empty. The periodical up and down is caused by pH interference.

1651477955322.png

@Lasse is that your interpretation now, that a tiny amount of H2O2 comes out along with O2 while using the oxydator?
 

Boosterman

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I am extremely happy with the result after just 24 hours. Photos were taken at the same time as yesterday for comparison. I can definitely see the retraction of the Dinos. Some corals are not happy as I noticed that my Zoas are closed up, Gonioporas are not fully extended, Bowerbanki is not as puffy. Hopefully things will settle down.

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213320925.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193214953.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213333311.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193226714.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192425882.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_195342422.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192452550.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193209049.jpg


Zoa closed up
PXL_20230115_193300845.jpg
 
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As organics change in the tank one might need to change output - so a constant rate would need to be changed.
If that's tge case isn't it also true of a doser. Do organics change so much if you have the same number of animals, feed the same amount and frequency.

is that last part true the Peroxide concentration in the vessel doesn’t change? Isn’t some of the reaction with catalyst produces water that dilutes the peroxide? I’m not sure of the exact reaction but thought it was releasing the extra oxygen from h2o2 into h20. This would essentially dilute the oxidator supply and when using lower percentage peroxide for a long time in them notice production eventually stops and the liquid is just water, but maybe just my exp.

A Smal amount of h2o will be released but hardly significant as peroxide is pushed out of the Oxydator and further broken down between the bell and the walls of the oxydator. What's left quickly breaks down in the surrounding DT water.

I guess if nothing else you have now heard of a user testing the water for peroxide. Yay for new things!

I might buy some test strips as they are inexpensive and I like to try and test different things. It would be interesting to try a 3 catalysts for instance in my Oxydator A and 12% peroxide if nothing else than to see if I get a peroxide reading in the DT.
 
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atoll

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I am extremely happy with the result after just 24 hours. Photos were taken at the same time as yesterday for comparison. I can definitely see the retraction of the Dinos. Some corals are not happy as I noticed that my Zoas are closed up, Gonioporas are not fully extended, Bowerbanki is not as puffy. Hopefully things will settle down.

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213320925.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193214953.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213333311.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193226714.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192425882.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_195342422.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192452550.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193209049.jpg


Zoa closed up
PXL_20230115_193300845.jpg
Very much looks like it's doing its job. Maybe consider reducing the % of peroxide by a 1/4 less of the strength you using if some corals are not happy.
 

Boosterman

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Very much looks like it's doing its job. Maybe consider reducing the % of peroxide by a 1/4 less of the strength you using if some corals are not happy.
Ok I'll keep an eye on them for few more days and reduce the concentration of H2O2 if they're still not doing well.
 

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