having high nutrient can turn sps to different color?

[Graffiti Spot]

That reefbuilders article is somewhat old thoughts on color ime. Most of it I wouldn't suggest to anyone unless they are running an ulns and still.
OP, PC rainbow is notorious for being ugly colors until it becomes a colony or unless its left alone for a long time.

 

[Coronus]

To the OP. IMO, it’s low light causing it to green. My systems for years have always been undetected no3 and po4 on Salifert test kits. But in high light red acros stay red all the way like red planet or Mirabelis. Same pieces, same tank in low light get green on the base and upwards.
I have never experienced high nutrients, so that is why I don’t believe thats the cause. However it could be true.

 

[DQM5]

Also was the frag encrusted? Imo acros usually turn green as a safety. After damage or after being fragged. Not all the time but I've seen it way too many times for it to be a coincidence.

So many reasons but I would put light and specific trace elements at the top of the list

Also I always find this article from reef builders an interesting read

https://reefbuilders.com/2008/09/03/guide-of-sps-coral-coloration-make-them-more-vivid-bright/

the frag wasn't entrusted yet, but it was starting green while entrusting to the frag. now it's all green entrusted to the plug and shooting off little yellow.

 

[DQM5]

To the OP. IMO, it’s low light causing it to green. My systems for years have always been undetected no3 and po4 on Salifert test kits. But in high light red acros stay red all the way like red planet or Mirabelis. Same pieces, same tank in low light get green on the base and upwards.
I have never experienced high nutrients, so that is why I don’t believe thats the cause. However it could be true.

I'm running AI hydra 52hd 8-9 inches off the water line
my frag rack is about another 8 inches but if you look at the 4th pics, I posted that's the schedule I'm running. pc rainbow I got from a friend his fully entrusted with green base but the stick is red, while mines is all green with yellow lol. but I do have high nutrient I believe.

 

[Luno]

the frag wasn't entrusted yet, but it was starting green while entrusting to the frag. now it's all green entrusted to the plug and shooting off little yellow.

In my experience it's usually happens like development after being fragged goes green especially at the base till settles in and like others have said do so until it grows out more and then should return its colour.

 

[Robink]

I have a red planet and pc rainbow under leds. Red planet is redder higher up, greener lower in tank. Pc Rainbow I keep about mid tank and is pink with a bright green rim. I have a frag of it up higher more green/gold higher up.
My N03 is anywhere from 5-15 ppm.
All my sps have great color.

 

[DQM5]

In my experience it's usually happens like development after being fragged goes green especially at the base till settles in and like others have said do so until it grows out more and then should return its colour.

maybe so far pc rainbow is getting more color even tho it is manly green, but the red table was red now turning green lol but the tip has a reddish pink.

I have a red planet and pc rainbow under leds. Red planet is redder higher up, greener lower in tank. Pc Rainbow I keep about mid tank and is pink with a bright green rim. I have a frag of it up higher more green/gold higher up.
My N03 is anywhere from 5-15 ppm.
All my sps have great color.

my No3 is around 0.25-1 ppm, lol so many factor plays in sps changing colors.

 

[ajm83]

More contrast and brighter color with lower N and P. Dark, saturated mono colors under higher N and P. To each their own.

You can do more to change the color of corals with lights than you can with nutrients.

I also like to have low nutrients and lots of quality light.

Hi mate, please can you define 'lower N and P'? Are we talking 0.00, 0.01, 0.03 ... ?

And what is meant by changing the colour with lights? Is that spectrum, PAR, duration?

Thanks

My SPS colouration is generally poor, (or rather, not to my liking).

For example my Red Planet has very strong green base ( quite stunning actually) but I bought it to be red! :) I think this is usually regarded as a low PAR response in this acro. Yet that spot is getting 300-350 uMol, which I would regard as more mid PAR?

Can only think its tied in with nutrient levels also. Tank is near enough perfect on ICP tests.

 

[jda]

There is a sliding scale... the lower you get, the more contrast and color and the higher, the more deeper monotone. Stripping too far (usually with media and organic carbon) can result in lightening and then death if gone too far. Having too much can result in browning and then death if gone too far. For me, best color is near NSW levels at .1n and .01p, which my tank handles on it's own without any media or organic carbon.

Light quality is a huge issue - coverage and spectrum. MH and T5 have higher quality light and have better colors and coverage than LED. While even the nicest LED tanks that I have seen are only about 75-80% of what they could be under better lights, I can see why some people do not care since they love other things about LED. If you run LED, the best thing that you can do for color is to add some T5s - addressing water issues will be a drop in the bucket compared to this.

Don't count on ICP too much. ICP might be the new false-positive of this generation, but only time will tell. It cannot measure maturity of the tank, which has all kinds of non-measurable benefits. It also does not measure stability or lighting. All-in-all, if I wanted the best color, I would rather have best of breed lights and middling water quality rather than have middling lights and the best water quality. Alas, they are not mutually exclusive. :)