Heater issues

[GlassMunky]

look just because you dont like or accept the idea of averaging together a bunch of temps to find a useful number is your own issue. its the standard thing to do in all walks of life when you have thermometers giving you multiple readings.

 

[Garf]

are you being serious??? what would happen if it did fail and the heater probe is only in the sump???

It wouldn’t cook the sump, that’s for sure.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

It wouldn’t cook the sump, that’s for sure.

no just kill everything in your DT... either way if the return pump fails and it's not fixed there's no good to be had.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

It wouldn’t cook the sump, that’s for sure.

also the question wasn't about pump failure it was about maintaining the proper temp in the DT

 

[BeanAnimal]

Lol, here are mine. Readings are in Celsius,

LoL - sellout.

The metric system is for people who can’t do math!

I would place the probe for the controller in the DT , then the heater will maintain the heat in the DT and not the sump

NEVER place a heater and it’s control in two different parts of a system. The return pump does not have to “fail”. Just turning the pump off for tank maintenance can be disastrous. The display is calling for heat non-stop as the sump basically boils. When you turn it back on the temperature shock and/or total system temperature can be disasterous.

 

[Garf]

no just kill everything in your DT... either way if the return pump fails and it's not fixed there's no good to be had.

You must live somewhere really cold.

also the question wasn't about pump failure it was about maintaining the proper temp in the DT

You made this relevant by putting the probe in the DT and heaters in the sump. Perhaps everyone else does the same as you, I don't know.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

LoL - sellout.

The metric system is for people who can’t do math!


NEVER place a heater and it’s control in two different parts of a system. The return pump does not have to “fail”. Just turning the pump off for tank maintenance can be disastrous. The display is calling for heat non-stop as the sump basically boils. When you turn it back on the temperature shock and/or total system temperature can be disasterous.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Perhaps everyone else does the same as you, I don't know.

I sure hope not, but most people really understand very little about heater failure modes and proper setup anyway.

 

[Sleeping Giant]

You must live somewhere really cold.

You made this relevant by putting the probe in the DT and heaters in the sump. Perhaps everyone else does the same as you, I don't know.

ya it's called the great white north for a reason

 

[BeanAnimal]

Mock if you wish, the failure mode probability and logic is simple enough to map out.

There is no benefit to the probe in the display and the heaters in another compartment like a sump.

Also, the probe should be on the upstream side of the heater (in the same compartment). This prevents short cycling on false set point reading.

 

[Garf]

I bet he's moving the location of his probe now, lol.

 

[Timandkatereef]

I don’t understand. They have certified thermometers for a reason.

What certified thermometer do you have?

 

[Timandkatereef]

Okay so update and additional information,

The heater is located in the middle rear chamber of the 38 Gallon Nano tank. I have a AL Axis 40 that is at 66% of flow. The heater has a temp. prob installed somewhere on the heater. I have another temperature prob in the tank which indicating 75.2 degrees.

I have up the heater set to 81 degrees and the display tank shows 75.2, the temp in the tank has gone up 3 degrees since I changed the settings.

 

[Timandkatereef]

Pretty typical. You should have heater controller infront of your heater for redundancy and most have a calibration setting. Unfortunately the Hygger does not. Once you are sure you have an accurate thermometer just dial the Hygger up until you get the temperature you want. They are not accurate but they are consistent.

The Hygger is new heater that I just purchased and installed. I have recently the Sicce heater which was horrible and do not recommend to anyone.

 

[The_Paradox]

What certified thermometer do you have?

I have a couple from various jobs mostly a mix of Thermco, Fluke, and glass immersion ones I have no idea who made. There is no need to go down a rabbit hole with it though. Thermometers can range from 10-1500 dollars. I would pick up a cheap analog to use as a reference. All you need to look for is NIST traceable and in the temperature range of your tank. Ie 20-30 degrees would be awesome, but more realistically 0-100.

Something like this should be more than enough.