Help, Clownfish don't look good!

beens_N_Weever

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I need some help! I got 2 clownfish that look to have caught something. They both seem to be eating still and swimming around the tank fine but their body color and coats look off.

They are my first two fish I got along with a hectors goby. I added all three of them to the tank about two weeks ago and recently put in a CUC. (Nassarius snails, tiger sand conch, blood shrimp, Ceriths snails, trochus snails, and bumble bee snails)

My water parameters look good my nitrate seems a bit high but everything else is where it should be.

Nitrate: 25
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Temp: 79
phosphate: .03
Salinity: 1.026

if you could tell me what it is and best way to treat that’d be great.

I believe it's Brooklynella but this is my first fishtank and first fish so I am still learning and trying to figure it out.

image2 (1).jpeg image3.jpeg image1 (1).jpeg image0 (2).jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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I need some help! I got 2 clownfish that look to have caught something. They both seem to be eating still and swimming around the tank fine but their body color and coats look off.

They are my first two fish I got along with a hectors goby. I added all three of them to the tank about two weeks ago and recently put in a CUC. (Nassarius snails, tiger sand conch, blood shrimp, Ceriths snails, trochus snails, and bumble bee snails)

My water parameters look good my nitrate seems a bit high but everything else is where it should be.

Nitrate: 25
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: 0
Temp: 79
phosphate: .03
Salinity: 1.026

if you could tell me what it is and best way to treat that’d be great.

I believe it's Brooklynella but this is my first fishtank and first fish so I am still learning and trying to figure it out.

image2 (1).jpeg image3.jpeg image1 (1).jpeg image0 (2).jpeg
Clown showing sure indication of brooklynella which is referred to as clown disease. =the haziness is one tell tale sign. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
 
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beens_N_Weever

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Clown showing sure indication of brooklynella which is referred to as clown disease. =the haziness is one tell tale sign. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials
I need to remove all my Snails and Shrimp as well when doing a fallow phase?
 

vetteguy53081

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I need to remove all my Snails and Shrimp as well when doing a fallow phase?
They can remain. The purpose is to remove fish which they need a host for. With the presence of fish absent, the disease dies off
 

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