Help! High nitrites in qt

yenniffer

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.Hello I set up a qt tank due to an ich outbreak. My nitrates are >5ppm and I can’t get them down, i have done 50% water change and nothing, i just have a few pvc elbows. Should i add live rock to help with the bacteria? I am new to this whole qt thing. I had started dosing copper power slowly but i guess i have to start all over again since that big wc took place. I already had 2 fish loss and i believe was by of the high nitrites. Nitrates were also on the high side.
 

Jay Hemdal

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.Hello I set up a qt tank due to an ich outbreak. My nitrates are >5ppm and I can’t get them down, i have done 50% water change and nothing, i just have a few pvc elbows. Should i add live rock to help with the bacteria? I am new to this whole qt thing. I had started dosing copper power slowly but i guess i have to start all over again since that big wc took place. I already had 2 fish loss and i believe was by of the high nitrites. Nitrates were also on the high side.
Are you testing for ammonia, and if so, what test are you using?
What nitrite test are you using? Here is something few people know - nitrite is virtually non-toxic to marine fish. The salt in the water blocks the uptake of the nitrite ion by the fish. Nitrite is DEADLY to freshwater fish though.
Jay
 

Qasimja

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thats why i only test for ammonia in my QT tanks
Are you testing for ammonia, and if so, what test are you using?
What nitrite test are you using? Here is something few people know - nitrite is virtually non-toxic to marine fish. The salt in the water blocks the uptake of the nitrite ion by the fish. Nitrite is DEADLY to freshwater fish though.
Jay
 
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yenniffer

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Are you testing for ammonia, and if so, what test are you using?
What nitrite test are you using? Here is something few people know - nitrite is virtually non-toxic to marine fish. The salt in the water blocks the uptake of the nitrite ion by the fish. Nitrite is DEADLY to freshwater fish though.
Jay
I use the API test. The ammonia was around .5 this morning after wc last night. Did another wc but still the same. Would adding nitrifying bacteria help?
 

NaturalGothic

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Sometimes, doing too many back to back water changes can be harmful too.

I recommended adding Instant Ocean’s Nitrate Reducer. It’s not a replacement for regular water changes but it works great.

I use it on my 10 gallon saltwater tank that has Inverts, Anemones, Corals, and fish. It doesn’t harm anything and my nitrates are gone in just a few hours. You can get two 8.75 oz bottles on Amazon for like $9.
 

NaturalGothic

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Also, adding live rock will help drop the nitrate but it may take a while for that to truly help.
 

MaxTremors

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Are you talking about nitrites or nitrates? As Jay said nitrites aren’t toxic to saltwater fish. And nitrates at 5ppm is nothing to worry about. Like even 50ppm in a fish only tank isn’t too concerning.
 

NaturalGothic

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Are you talking about nitrites or nitrates? As Jay said nitrites aren’t toxic to saltwater fish. And nitrates at 5ppm is nothing to worry about. Like even 50ppm in a fish only tank isn’t too concerning.
Oh I’m talking about Nitrate, lol. Sorry I read that wrong. If you’re looking to lower nitrite, add in some Bio Spira. That’s basically just good bacteria in a bottle. For the most part, Nitrite is harmless unless it’s really high and/or has been going on for a long time.
 

MaxTremors

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Oh I’m talking about Nitrate, lol. Sorry I read that wrong. If you’re looking to lower nitrite, add in some Bio Spira. That’s basically just good bacteria in a bottle. For the most part, Nitrite is harmless unless it’s really high and/or has been going on for a long time.
Oh, I was asking the OP. In their original post/title they mention nitrites and then nitrates.
 

Jay Hemdal

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I use the API test. The ammonia was around .5 this morning after wc last night. Did another wc but still the same. Would adding nitrifying bacteria help?
O.K., so there is some issues with terminology here- I just read the thread title.

However, that high of an ammonia reading is an issue. Forget the nitrite and nitrate readings and focus on managing the ammonia. Fish can by harmed by a 0.5 ppm level and 1 ppm is usually deadly (depending on the pH of course).

Here is the issue - in a tank with no bacteria, the ammonia can build as fast as 1 ppm per day. Ammonia is much more toxic at a high pH. If you change 50% of the water, you only drop the ammonia to 0.5 ppm, but you raise the pH. Then, 24 hours later, another 1 ppm ammonia has built up, putting you at 1.5 ppm and a high pH, and that is lethal.

Since you already lost fish to ich, you need to get to 100% copper right away, or you will lose additional fish before the copper has time to work. The trouble is, you need to manage the ammonia. I shy away from using copper with ammonia removing chemicals like prime and amquel.

Copper Power is copper bound to Ammonia. Freshly mixed seawater with a full dose of copper power will have an ammonia reading of around 0.2 to 0.4 ppm.

I would consider adding "bacteria in a bottle" either - Dr. Tim's or Fritz. Trouble is, you'll need to get this in there today, and that means you'll need to find it at a local store.....

Jay
 

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