Help Identifying Which Dino This Is (PLEASE)

[Idoc]

That's unfortunately what I was thinking too.

Was thinking about doing the method below from another thread (credit to @vetteguy53081) , since I don't have a UV sterilizer. Does anyone else have any thoughts on other methods for this type of dino?

• Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
• Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
• During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
• Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
• Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

I had small cell amphidinium dinos and ostreopsis. I used the Elegant Corals Dino Recipe/Strategy which resolved my small cell problem...nothing else helped. UV cleared the ostreopsis in 3 days.

The above strategy is by vetteguy is a cookie-cutter dino approach he gives out to everyone. It isn't a bad thing and those ideas are discussed in length in some of the dino threads. Some of it helps, some of it doesn't...I think it really depends on your system of what helps and doesn't. The only problem I have with the above plan is that it seems to be given as fact that if you do these steps, your dinos will be gone...probably not the case. Basically increasing biodiversity helps greatly in the long run. Check out the Elegant Corals treatment...it is the only thing that cleared my dinos (and I fought them for over a year).

 

[rhpmiller]

So, about a week in and I've gotten my nutrients up through feeding more and dosing NeoNitro and NeoPhos. Additionally, I started dosing silicates with SpongeExcel (1-2 drops every day, but still not really registering on a silicate test).

My parameters are the following:

pH: 8.6 (has always been high, due to my alkalinity and Kalkwasser in my ATO, and everything has been happy)
dKH: 9.8
NO3: 11.1
PO4: 0.09

However, i'm seeing a lot of my corals stressed out. My SPS are starting to bleach and discard their tissue. My LPS are unhappy, but not anything alarming yet.

I'm a fork in the road: Should I do a water change and try and salvage my SPS corals (i.e. maybe they haven't received enough trace elements, since I haven't done a water change in around 10 weeks and stopped with AB+ Reef Energy)? Or, is this just something that has to happen to get rid of the dinos?

 

[Kmst80]

So, about a week in and I've gotten my nutrients up through feeding more and dosing NeoNitro and NeoPhos. Additionally, I started dosing silicates with SpongeExcel (1-2 drops every day, but still not really registering on a silicate test).

My parameters are the following:

pH: 8.6 (has always been high, due to my alkalinity and Kalkwasser in my ATO, and everything has been happy)
dKH: 9.8
NO3: 11.1
PO4: 0.09

However, i'm seeing a lot of my corals stressed out. My SPS are starting to bleach and discard their tissue. My LPS are unhappy, but not anything alarming yet.

I'm a fork in the road: Should I do a water change and try and salvage my SPS corals (i.e. maybe they haven't received enough trace elements, since I haven't done a water change in around 10 weeks and stopped with AB+ Reef Energy)? Or, is this just something that has to happen to get rid of the dinos?

I didn't do waterchanges for weeks and my corals looked worse by the week. I am doin waterchanges now, i just make sure that i have enough nitrates and phosphates afterwards. Good chance to suck all that brown **** out too.

 

[saltyhog]

So, about a week in and I've gotten my nutrients up through feeding more and dosing NeoNitro and NeoPhos. Additionally, I started dosing silicates with SpongeExcel (1-2 drops every day, but still not really registering on a silicate test).

My parameters are the following:

pH: 8.6 (has always been high, due to my alkalinity and Kalkwasser in my ATO, and everything has been happy)
dKH: 9.8
NO3: 11.1
PO4: 0.09

However, i'm seeing a lot of my corals stressed out. My SPS are starting to bleach and discard their tissue. My LPS are unhappy, but not anything alarming yet.

I'm a fork in the road: Should I do a water change and try and salvage my SPS corals (i.e. maybe they haven't received enough trace elements, since I haven't done a water change in around 10 weeks and stopped with AB+ Reef Energy)? Or, is this just something that has to happen to get rid of the dinos?

SpongExcel is way too dilute for treating dinos IME. It's for helping with sponge growth, etc. The best course to elicit the diatom bloom needed is to dose water glass at 0.2 ml/15 gallons of system volume daily. Mix it with about 250 cc of RO/DI and pour it slowly in a high flow area (it's very alkaline and will precipitate if you don't do this).

Don't bother with testing for silicate with hobby kits available in the US. They grossly over report the level. The Colombo test kit is ok but not available in the US. It's not really needed anyway as silicate causes no negative consequences (except for a prolongation of the diatom bloom we're trying to get) even at massive over dose levels of 200 ppm. If you want you can do an ICP in 3-4 weeks and see where your level is. If it's greater than 2.0 ppm you can adjust your dosing accordingly.

As far as trace elements....I would avoid water changes if at all possible. Perfectly ok to dose trace elements (I dose some daily and others weekly/monthly) but do not dose amino acids as they seem to fuel dinos IME.

 

[Sink_or_Swim]

Hi all,

My tank is about a year and three months old and I got dinos for the first time--bound to happen at some point. I think the clear culprit is that I let my nutrients bottom out.

I'm in the process of dosing and feeding more to raise the nitrate and phosphate. However, I also wanted to identify the type of dino, to better understand the path I should take to beating it.

I'm using the dino identifying PDF, from the Dino Identification Guide on R2R, but I'm stuck between which one I actually have.

Dinoflagellate Identification Guide

I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.

www.reef2reef.com

Apologies for the picture and video quality--tough to steady your cell phone camera while looking through a microscope. Ha.

In the tank, it looks like diatoms and mats over parts of my sand and the occasional rock island. It's not super mucus-y, nor has long strands and bubbles. And based on the pictures, I'm thinking it's either Amphidinium (Large-Cell) or Prorocentrum--what i'm leaning towards, due to the circular structure in the middle of the cell.

Can y'all please help me identify which type of dino it is?

I don't know an iota about dinos... (unless we're talking about my son's dinosaur shaped chicken nights, haha) - but now I know I definitely need a magnifying glass to get a better look at all the life in my tank!

 

[The Ginga Ninja]

That's unfortunately what I was thinking too.

Was thinking about doing the method below from another thread (credit to @vetteguy53081) , since I don't have a UV sterilizer. Does anyone else have any thoughts on other methods for this type of dino?

• Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
• Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
• During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
• Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
• Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

I DO think you need a UV Sterilizer, do you mind if I ask why you wouldn't want to use one?

I usually can get rid of Dinos 6-8 days with this method (but it would require a UV sterilizer). Hope this helps!:

 

[Bitcoin Reefer]

That's unfortunately what I was thinking too.

Was thinking about doing the method below from another thread (credit to @vetteguy53081) , since I don't have a UV sterilizer. Does anyone else have any thoughts on other methods for this type of dino?

• Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
• Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
• During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
• Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
• Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

I tried Vetteguy method, it worked temporarily, but they came back when I turned light back up. I even kept light low for long time. Month or more. This was for LCA Large Cell Amphimidium which yours looks like to me, but I’m not expert.