HELP ME please

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austinw150

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Yellowtail Blue Damselfish (Chrysiptera parasema) are good citizens, atypical damsels, and about as hardy and long-lived as you can get. I wouldn't worry at all about adding them first. Clowns, on the other hand, also hardy and long-lived, are among the most aggressive fish I've ever owned.
Yeah, my clowns in my 20 are vicious. Not towards the fire fish in there with them but towards me lol
 

ScottJ

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Just some thoughts.

Maybe once you get your new tank set up, you can post pictures and the details of it. Also, tell us what your stocking plans are for it. Then the very knowledgeable people here can advise you on the best way forward.

It's very hard to determine the cause of your losses after the fact with out the details of the specific situation. It could be aggression, disease, stress, improper diet... can't really say. But, the one thing is if you have coral and a CUC in the tank that are doing well, you can pretty much rule out water quality.

Your 20 gallon seems to be good with the clowns and a fire fish, right? You've had them a couple years? There are no other fish in there, I assume. So that's all good!
 

W31Olds

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No I’m sorry, I had an SR80 before I just recently upgraded to a prostar v90.
The 20 I have had 2 clowns and a fire fish for almost 2 years no losses. My sr80 I have had bad bouts with ich twice, the UV sterilizer I had wasn’t quite big enough for the tank. Some of the fish I have lost have been a tomini tang, magnificent fox face, lawnmower blenny, coral beauty, six line wrasse, melanarus wrasse, chalk bass, clownfish, I have researched these fish to make sure I can handle their needs. When it comes to acclimation I have floated fish(which clearly needs to change)

I make my own RO water and mix my own salt as well.
I test my salinity with a Hanna digital tester

I keep my parameters
Salinity 1.026
Alk 8
Cal 420
Mag 1350
N03 15
P04.1
I don't see this as a Water Quality issue at all. Some losses could be due to Osmotic Shock during acclimation.
It's fairly straightforward to eliminate that by using a QT Tank Salinity matched to the Bag Water. Any reputable vendor knows what Salinity they ship fish at. They should receive full QT unless purchased as Pre-QT'd , but I would still put them in a holding Tank for Observation.
You can drip acclimate Fish purchased from your local LFS, but they along with inverts should receive full QT. Inverts in a Fallow QT Tank. (No Meds). Also, I would never trust any of my LFS's QT'd fish.
Your Fish list does not have any "Red Flags" as difficult fish.
I think your main problem is adding fish sporadically that were not QT'd and never really breaking the Disease Cycle.
It's a pain QT'ing Fish and slowly Stocking a Tank, but it's the key to success.
@Jay Hemdal
 
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austinw150

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Just some thoughts.

Maybe once you get your new tank set up, you can post pictures and the details of it. Also, tell us what your stocking plans are for it. Then the very knowledgeable people here can advise you on the best way forward.

It's very hard to determine the cause of your losses after the fact with out the details of the specific situation. It could be aggression, disease, stress, improper diet... can't really say. But, the one thing is if you have coral and a CUC in the tank that are doing well, you can pretty much rule out water quality.

Your 20 gallon seems to be good with the clowns and a fire fish, right? You've had them a couple years? There are no other fish in there, I assume. So that's all good!
Absolutely, here is a photo of the 20 as well. I will create a thread as I start this tank to hold myself a little more accountable and take good advice from more experienced hobbyists. Thanks for the response
 

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OcellarisSnow

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your corals look amazing but I would guess the fish are dying because your not acclimating them right don't be inhumane these are living things yk
 

ScottJ

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Absolutely, here is a photo of the 20 as well. I will create a thread as I start this tank to hold myself a little more accountable and take good advice from more experienced hobbyists. Thanks for the response
Nice looking tank! Wish mine looked that good 🙃
 
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austinw150

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I don't see this as a Water Quality issue at all. Some losses could be due to Osmotic Shock during acclimation.
It's fairly straightforward to eliminate that by using a QT Tank Salinity matched to the Bag Water. Any reputable vendor knows what Salinity they ship fish at. They should receive full QT unless purchased as Pre-QT'd , but I would still put them in a holding Tank for Observation.
You can drip acclimate Fish purchased from your local LFS, but they along with inverts should receive full QT. Inverts in a Fallow QT Tank. (No Meds). Also, I would never trust any of my LFS's QT'd fish.
Your Fish list does not have any "Red Flags" as difficult fish.
I think your main problem is adding fish sporadically that were not QT'd and never really breaking the Disease Cycle.
It's a pain QT'ing Fish and slowly Stocking a Tank, but it's the key to success.
@Jay Hemdal

Nice looking tank! Wish mine looked that good 🙃
Thanks! Getting ready to upgrade it to a 40 or 50 gallon soon, like I said, coral hasnt been the problem. Its been fish for me.
 

Peter Houde

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Other than me shutting it down a few weeks ago, yes. Why would I post a picture of someone else’s tank?
I asked if it was your tank because your corals look so good I found it hard to imagine that there was anything to do with water quality that would affect your fish. Moreover, I'm surprised you broke it down. If it were mine and I couldn't keep fish, then I think I'd be satisfied with a coral only tank.

I've got another left field question. You haven't used any atypical rock or substrate that could be leaching toxins or heavy metals, or have any other unusual materials in contact with the water flow, have you? If you let your tank run fallow and still had die offs, then it makes me wonder if it isn't something abiotic, if it's a single problem at all.
 
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austinw150

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So, is this a pic of your tank?
Honestly, When I set up the tank I thought I wanted a super simple easy softie tank. Now I've just decided I want something a little different coral wise. The main switch for the tank was wanting to try out a system with a sump for more room for equipment/bio media

As for the rockwork I had someone build me a scape when i bought the tank. Not exactly sure what brand of rock they used to build it.

When it comes to the possible leaching of metals, since the tank is gone now its hard for me to say, but I couldn't tell you for sure there weren't magnets or maybe something of that sort that could've caused some problems. I do believe most of my problem has been my acclimation process. Logically it makes me think ich/velvet/brooky/etc. was my problem with the fish I lost that made it through acclimation and (even though I don't feel like every single fish I lost after some time was showing signs of any of the above.)
 

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I've been reefing for about 2 yrs now. Ive always had an extremely hard time keeping fish alive. I currently have 2 tanks setup (90 and 20 gallons) For two yrs I've killed and killed and killed fish. (you would hate to see a fish list of everything I've lost). I feel comfortable keeping tanks and just about any coral I want, but I can not for the life of me seem to keep fish alive. Some I lose within the first couple days, and sometimes they make it a few months and I just find them dead. Im begging someone help me with this problem.
May Lord Jesus please grant him mercy and expose and remove everything that’s killing his fish, The Bible states to pray for all men and You Word state you came so people can have life abundantly.
 

Peter Houde

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Two more thoughts. Make sure you don't have a voltage leak from any of your gear. And maybe more to the point, there are certain countries that are noted for the use of poisons to collect fish for the market. Fish that are not killed immediately may die a slow death months later due to damage done to internal organs. You're not going to spot this as easily as ich or something else that manifests itself externally. If you are buying most or all of your fish from the same retailer, you might want to try someone else. It's no guarantee, but if you go with a retailer that quarantines their fish for at least 3 weeks, then you have a better chance of avoiding sickened or injured fish. Look for those who advertise their fish are net caught.
 

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