HELP!!! NEED ADVISE!!

cmcoker

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How long has been in the water for? Mine was reading safe for a couple weeks, but there was absolutely ammonia in it.
The badge only reads free ammonia, a lot of tests (like api) read total ammonia. Seachem says free ammonia is what is toxic, someone smarter than me would have to comment on that..

The seachem ammonia test can be used with Cupramine, per their website if you what to double check the badge reading.

Water change can't hurt, just monitor your copper level
 
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schmoore89

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I'm not sure what the level of the copper is. I bought an API copper test kit but can't get it to register. As for the water from DT to the QT I figured that the copper would get rid of any unwanted parasites.
 

melypr1985

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I'm not sure what the level of the copper is. I bought an API copper test kit but can't get it to register. As for the water from DT to the QT I figured that the copper would get rid of any unwanted parasites.

Ok wait. Your using cupramine right? The API kit wont work for that. You need a seachem or salifert test kit for cupramine. That's why your having a hard time getting it to register. Your measuring for a different type of copper. That could be your problem right there.
 
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schmoore89

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Update......

I did a 50% water change this morning. Used RODI water for the QT. Clownfish is still alive just sticking to one corner of the tank. Picked up some pellet food for him to try. No success. I then tried soaking pellets in garlic. No success. I order a seachem copper test kit. I don't know what else to try......

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Humblefish

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Are you noticing anything wrong with the clownfish? Any white dots or marks on the body? Heavy breathing?
 

melypr1985

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would you be willing/comfortable doing a fresh water dip? Do it in a dark container and look closely for anything that falls out of the gills.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 

Humblefish

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+1 to the FW dip. The heavy breathing is indicative that something is going on inside the gills.
 

Humblefish

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I just want to know the issue with why the clownfish isn't eating. Seemed to be act fine at the LFS.

It's possible a disease (external parasite or flukes) is harboring inside his gills, making it difficult for him to breath and thus, he is refusing to eat. The other possibility is an environmental factor, such as ammonia or a toxin in the water, is make him breath heavy.
 
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schmoore89

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So my next question is if the fish wasn't breathing heavy and my LFS and then I put him in my QT tank and he starts breathing heavy.... my QT water is the issue? Should I just be worried about ammonia??
 

Humblefish

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So my next question is if the fish wasn't breathing heavy and my LFS and then I put him in my QT tank and he starts breathing heavy.... my QT water is the issue? Should I just be worried about ammonia??

Ammonia is all you really need to worry about in QT, unless doing Hypo (in which case you must also monitor pH). Nitrites & nitrates do not bother SW fish unless at extremely high levels.

Any possibility a toxin, like from a household cleaner, could have gotten into the water in QT? Does your LFS treat with copper or any other medication?
 
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schmoore89

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Ok guys. Thank you for all your help!!!! Little clown is now eating on his own. I did a 50% water change and after feeding him with an eye dropper for the first couple of days he is now eating whatever I put in the tank.

My next question is I have a seachem copper test being shipped as we speak. I will be medicating with cupermine. What should the proper level of cupermine be in the QT tank to treat for ich and other parasites?? It doesn't say one the bottle.
 

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