Help: One torch receding. Other torch + 4 hammers seem happy

DiscoStuart

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I've got a (NY Nicks) torch that I've had for 4 months. The classic green torch next to it, that I've had for longer and 4 hammers that I've had for a few weeks, are all doing fine. Plus a host of other corals (softie, LPS and more recently SPS) seem okay. All corals dipped with Polyp Labs Reef Primer before going into the tank.

I've noticed the flesh band on the NY Nicks torch starting to receed recently. The polyps were never as long and flowly as the green one - but always figured it was just the variety. Going back through my photos, for this post, I'm now realizing how far it has receeded and embarassed I haven't taken action sooner. I clearly should have started comparing photos much earlier!

Since I got it, I had a dinos battle after nutrients bottomed out. Then nutrients spiked and had a GHA battle. FluxRX sorted that out and I'm now in a (knock on wood) period of stability it seams. Tank is now 6 months old.

Parameters and other info below but would love any help or ideas. It's getting ~120ish PAR.

Ca 440
Mg 1480
Salinity 35
pH 8-8.3
Alk ~8
Phos ~0.02
Nitrates ~14 (had been as high as 40 and coming down over the last month or so).

Nyos Salt -15% water change every two weeks.

Flow-wise, it's been enough to keep the polyps moving, but not always pointing one direction. Flow comes more from it's left than the right, but the green torch would have been taking more flow for sure. I've swapped their places in case there was some slight par or flow difference from being on the other side.

Dosing Reef Zlements 2 part + traces where low

Last week's ICP: Iodine, Manganese, Iron and Vanadium are low - trying to bring them up. Zinc was low, but now in line. (Full ICP is here: https://icp.reef-zlements.com/icp-eos-analysis/?barcode=ADV-no-46665&tank_name=Nyos440)

Photo below shows July > August > Today. Massive change.

Screenshot 2025-10-13 at 19.47.02.png


IMG_9744.jpeg


IMG_9752.jpeg
 
Last edited:
If it helps, stuff I have to hand that some people seem to recommend:
- Hydrogen Peroxide
- Polyp Laps Reef Primer Dip
- Coral RX dip

I'm in the UK, so medications are hard to come by, but other dips are typically available.
 
If it helps, stuff I have to hand that some people seem to recommend:
- Hydrogen Peroxide
- Polyp Laps Reef Primer Dip
- Coral RX dip

I'm in the UK, so medications are hard to come by, but other dips are typically available.
coral EX my favorite and not sure if dip is the answer here.
I've got a (NY Nicks) torch that I've had for 4 months. The classic green torch next to it, that I've had for longer and 4 hammers that I've had for a few weeks, are all doing fine. Plus a host of other corals (softie, LPS and more recently SPS) seem okay. All corals dipped with Polyp Labs Reef Primer before going into the tank.

I've noticed the flesh band on the NY Nicks torch starting to receed recently. The polyps were never as long and flowly as the green one - but always figured it was just the variety. Going back through my photos, for this post, I'm now realizing how far it has receeded and embarassed I haven't taken action sooner. I clearly should have started comparing photos much earlier!

Since I got it, I had a dinos battle after nutrients bottomed out. Then nutrients spiked and had a GHA battle. FluxRX sorted that out and I'm now in a (knock on wood) period of stability it seams. Tank is now 6 months old.

Parameters and other info below but would love any help or ideas. It's getting ~120ish PAR.

Ca 440
Mg 1480
Salinity 35
pH 8-8.3
Alk ~8
Phos ~0.02
Nitrates ~14 (had been as high as 40 and coming down over the last month or so).

Nyos Salt -15% water change every two weeks.

Flow-wise, it's been enough to keep the polyps moving, but not always pointing one direction. Flow comes more from it's left than the right, but the green torch would have been taking more flow for sure. I've swapped their places in case there was some slight par or flow difference from being on the other side.

Dosing Reef Zlements 2 part + traces where low

Last week's ICP: Iodine, Manganese, Iron and Vanadium are low - trying to bring them up. Zinc was low, but now in line. (Full ICP is here: https://icp.reef-zlements.com/icp-eos-analysis/?barcode=ADV-no-46665&tank_name=Nyos440)

Photo below shows July > August > Today. Massive change.

Screenshot 2025-10-13 at 19.47.02.png


IMG_9744.jpeg


IMG_9752.jpeg
This torch is receded and not dying. The reason is stress.
You may ask, stress from what.
Like most large polyp coral, a torch benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and non-inflated if the water current is too much because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current conditions.
These corals are photosynthetic in which it has a relationship with zooxanthellae which lives inside its tissues that converts the light into energy which is a food source for the coral. While its possible to keep torches without any feeding, on my behalf, mysis shrimp will suffice as a meal
The best place for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.
If there is inadequate calcium in your tank, these corals will not be able to support their coral skeleton. Also never lift a torch coral out of the water as you could tear the polyps which become prone to infection then followed by tissue necrosis.
They are best at upper half of tank where they can achieve proper light and water flow. Too little or too much flow again will cause this. Torches require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2 - 8.3
Calcium level of about 400 -450 ppm
Mag 1300-1400
 
coral EX my favorite and not sure if dip is the answer here.

This torch is receded and not dying. The reason is stress.
You may ask, stress from what.
Like most large polyp coral, a torch benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and non-inflated if the water current is too much because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current conditions.
These corals are photosynthetic in which it has a relationship with zooxanthellae which lives inside its tissues that converts the light into energy which is a food source for the coral. While its possible to keep torches without any feeding, on my behalf, mysis shrimp will suffice as a meal
The best place for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting.
If there is inadequate calcium in your tank, these corals will not be able to support their coral skeleton. Also never lift a torch coral out of the water as you could tear the polyps which become prone to infection then followed by tissue necrosis.
They are best at upper half of tank where they can achieve proper light and water flow. Too little or too much flow again will cause this. Torches require typical parameters including:
Temperature around 78 degrees
Specific gravity of about 1.025
Ph of about 8.2 - 8.3
Calcium level of about 400 -450 ppm
Mag 1300-1400
Thanks! Params seem okay, so it seems like flow is the most likely culprit? I haven't spot fed them at all, though they do seem to grab stuff from the broadcast feeding. I can spot feed for sure.

Would you bother dipping or just focus on finding a different flow spot and seeing if that suffices? When the flow is 'right' (could be higher or lower) - should I see polyps coming out further? Any other, earlier, signs of happiness (or not) beyond the tissue recession?
 
Thanks! Params seem okay, so it seems like flow is the most likely culprit? I haven't spot fed them at all, though they do seem to grab stuff from the broadcast feeding. I can spot feed for sure.

Would you bother dipping or just focus on finding a different flow spot and seeing if that suffices? When the flow is 'right' (could be higher or lower) - should I see polyps coming out further? Any other, earlier, signs of happiness (or not) beyond the tissue recession?
Change flow, light etc as needed.
 
Looks sick to me. Or at least stressed.
The symptoms overlap
Try moving to a different spot and see what happens. Flesh can grow back but the trunk needs be clean of algae and films. Hydrogen peroxide and a small paint brush can clean the trunk
 
Looks sick to me. Or at least stressed.
The symptoms overlap
Try moving to a different spot and see what happens. Flesh can grow back but the trunk needs be clean of algae and films. Hydrogen peroxide and a small paint brush can clean the trunk
Thanks. will clean + move and keep an eye. How quickly do you typically see an improvement? And are their signs that come faster? E.g., better polyp extension should happen within a day or two - otherwise try a new spot?
 
It depends on the source cause. If it’s simply stress and flow / placement issues I would expect seeing the beginning of improvement in 2 days, and up to 2 weeks for full improvement.
 

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