Stagnation

[DEL 707]

This is my 56l nano tank.

The tanks been up and running for 16 months.
I've had my troubles, but in general have been slow and steady, but for the last month or so, I've noticed a distinct lack of growth. Some of the corals, especially the zoa's spend time closed up. At 1st I thought it was a troublesome mithrax crab, but it was removed over 2 weeks ago.
The only thing that does seem to be growing is the kenya tree which is dropping frags left, right and centre.

I got a ICP test done for my water, unfortunately I didn't order the advanced kit.

ICP Analysis - Reef Zlements

And 1 for my RO water.

ICP Analysis - Reef Zlements

I do a 15l water change every week.
Twice a week I dose Reef Energy+ and once I week I add Reef-Roids.
Daily I also dose nitrate and phosphate. I try to keep my nitrates between 10 and 20ppm and my phosphate at 0.08ppm.

This is a VERY old picture of when I rented a par unit.

These are my light settings.
Royal Blue - 55%
Blue - 55%
Cool White 27%

For flow, I have a Nero 3 running at 3400 lph.
A Fluval 107, which is 550 lph. For media I've left some of the original sponges in there, but I've added Seachem Matrix and some active carbon. I replaced the carbon about 2 months ago.
There is a surface skimmer in the tank that comes on a few times during the day.
I don't have a sump.

I would love some suggestions on what I could try?

 

[Subsea]

Tank looks good.

What is the red stuff on the rocks at right hand side of tank?

@DEL 707
Your heavy metals are below lower detection limits on copper, zinc and iron.

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is my 56l nano tank.

The tanks been up and running for 16 months.
I've had my troubles, but in general have been slow and steady, but for the last month or so, I've noticed a distinct lack of growth. Some of the corals, especially the zoa's spend time closed up. At 1st I thought it was a troublesome mithrax crab, but it was removed over 2 weeks ago.
The only thing that does seem to be growing is the kenya tree which is dropping frags left, right and centre.

I got a ICP test done for my water, unfortunately I didn't order the advanced kit.

ICP Analysis - Reef Zlements

And 1 for my RO water.

ICP Analysis - Reef Zlements

I do a 15l water change every week.
Twice a week I dose Reef Energy+ and once I week I add Reef-Roids.
Daily I also dose nitrate and phosphate. I try to keep my nitrates between 10 and 20ppm and my phosphate at 0.08ppm.

This is a VERY old picture of when I rented a par unit.

These are my light settings.
Royal Blue - 55%
Blue - 55%
Cool White 27%

For flow, I have a Nero 3 running at 3400 lph.
A Fluval 107, which is 550 lph. For media I've left some of the original sponges in there, but I've added Seachem Matrix and some active carbon. I replaced the carbon about 2 months ago.
There is a surface skimmer in the tank that comes on a few times during the day.
I don't have a sump.

I would love some suggestions on what I could try?

Nutrients seem elevated and you have cyano bacteria. How is this tank filtered?
There are many reason you'll this sustance. Some are:
Lack of skimming or Protein skimmer fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber allow dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to the collection cup, where it settles as skim-mate. When a protein skimmer is ineffective or absent or cant keep up with the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger this outbreak .
- Using Aminos can actually feed cyano.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your tank with nutrients is often causes cyano
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will be a breeding ground for this red slime .
- If you don’t change your water regularly, you’ll soon have this red substance as regular water changes dissolve nutrients which support cyano
- Using water high in nitrates or phosphates are a base for cyano. . . . . Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow is often a chief cause of cyano as slow moving water combined with excessive dissolved nutrients creates red slime algae

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita

 

[Tahoe61]

Lighting brand/fixture specifically, Fluval?
The red growth is cyanobacteria, consider increasing flow. Make sure to clean wave makers.

 

[DEL 707]

Tank light is an AI Blade.

As for the reddish growth on the right hand side of the tank. I *don't* believe that is cyanobacteria.
I do have cyano in the tank. You can see it on the sand by the hammer. It's quite easy to blow off with a pipette.
The stuff on the rock, does not come off.
It's also in the highest flow section of the tank.