Help with 400+ gallon build list

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I’m wanting to custom order an acrylic tank with a size of 96x36wX30H or 96x30wX30H but I’m new to the saltwater game. I’m wanting it to be mostly a sps or lps reef tank with around 10-25 fish but mostly tangs. What sump, skimmer, and other items would I need for this entire build. I’m trying to get a build list going so I can account for the entire set up cost. I’d like for it to be as minimalistic as possible but I know that’s sort of hard when reaching this size

The tank would be on the main floor of the house, no basement, large wide tile flooring, no crawl space. House built in 2008. Will be against a 159in wall that has a bathroom behind it
 

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WOW! That is a really large tank for a beginner! Are you sure you don't want to start with something smaller and grow as you go?
 
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WOW! That is a really large tank for a beginner! Are you sure you don't want to start with something smaller and grow as you go?
I had smaller fresh water tanks growing up but nothing ever this big. I’m looking for something that will keep me busier since I have a pretty flexible schedule. So I rather go the buy once, cry once route lol.

I’m a bit clueless on the sump & plumbing topic. So I’d need some educating because I just don’t want to pay someone to do all the work
 
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I would say you want the extra width and definitely wouldn’t go any taller. You wantA large sump assuming you can’t plumb it to another room it will need to be big enough to fit a fair amount of equipment. Large protein skimmer rated for 400 gallons heavy bioload. Probably 6 large powerheads 2 return pumps for redundancy. Just can’t go on and on with a tank this size you should look under monster builds and see what some of them are running granted a lot of tanks this size have separate fish rooms for equipment.
 
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I’m wanting to custom order an acrylic tank with a size of 96x36wX30H or 96x30wX30H but I’m new to the saltwater game. I’m wanting it to be mostly a sps or lps reef tank with around 10-25 fish but mostly tangs. What sump, skimmer, and other items would I need for this entire build. I’m trying to get a build list going so I can account for the entire set up cost. I’d like for it to be as minimalistic as possible but I know that’s sort of hard when reaching this size

The tank would be on the main floor of the house, no basement, large wide tile flooring, no crawl space. House built in 2008. Will be against a 159in wall that has a bathroom behind it
Well, as they say, a camera does not make a photographer. There are more important things to consider with a reef tank than just the equipment. In such an enormous setup, beginner mistakes which we all make, even experienced reef keepers, will cost a ton more in money and heartbreak and frustration. That's why most people start fairly small, with easy fish and corals and minimum equipment and get to know how to keep a reef and what equipment they may need as the grow bigger. Not a good idea to start a beginner reef, especially sps tank at such a monster size
 
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Hello and welcome to the reefing game. Just so you can get an idea on some of the equipment that I run on my 344g system. My tank is 84Lx30.5x25.5 from Planet Aquariums with a 60inch custom Synergy Sump and have the following equipment below.

1. Reef octopus Regal 300 skimmer
2. 3- Ati Straton Led fixtures
3. 2- Vortech 60's
4. 1- Vortech Mp40
5. 2- 300 watt heater
6. 1- Varios 8 Return pump
7. Neptune Apex w/Trident
8. 2-ecotech Battery backups
9. 4300 watt Generator
10. Custom Geo Calcium Reactor
11. 130 gallon mixing container to house extra saltwater.
12. 65 gallon Ro auto top off
13. 200pds of Dry Rock
14. 400 gallon of salt
15. Flipper Glass Cleaner

PS. Take it slow, Read, Read, and re-read. A reef tank takes time to build, mature and grow. It took me 10+yrs to get to where I am today and started with a 55 gallon tank from walmart. Now, I have built my dream system. Big tanks require bigger everything!
 
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One thing to keep in mind is water storage, and waste water. You will want 100g+ of salt & RO on deck with a good plan to drain your tank if something goes south..
Also room for a good QT/hospital setup, dealing with that much fish/coral you’re bound to run into some issues. Another thing is humidity control, I run a mini split, dehumidifier and have a ton of plants in the room with my tank, with that much water it is no joke!
 
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Oh I just realized I was helping you in not your thread :face-with-tears-of-joy:
Sort of TLDR summary that we (may have) covered so others can chime in here as well:

-Bigger sump (tsunami suggested due to cost but any brand is generally fine + doesn't need to be ultra fancy unless those are things you have to have)

-Since you're utilizing dual returns, one plumbed in a simple manner of all pvc or silicone to pvc would be ideal with the second pump being plumbed all pvc or silicone to pvc in a manifold for reactor(s), UV (if desired), skimmer (if necessary) and finishing into the display (alternatively finishing through uv into display) would be one of the ways I suggest plumbing (you can work out the details later since it's something you don't have to rush into)

-Lighting was determined as a skip on the AI blades as a primary lightsource (unless your research tells you otherwise since I mentioned I have 0 experience utilizing said lights so I can't offer what I would consider to be genuinely worthwhile output) and opt for a more well known/proven light (iirc you decided on the ap9x)

- Returns were determined to be 1" to match the presumed output size of the sicce sdc 9.0 (switch to 1.5" if it's 1.25" to reduce head pressure restrictions) and utilize 1.5" drains x3

-I went with the over kill 1" material on my 96x36x30 but from the general conversation of people much more knowledgable with acrylic than myself it seems that 3/4" would be fine per https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/crystal-clear-what-is-your-opinion-of-acrylic-reef-tanks.969783/

-Recommended seeing other 30"+ tanks to see how it may feel to do maintenance on said height since it is likely a challenge for most which is further amplified by stand height (sad because the taller on both ends generally the nicer looking but at what potential expense?)
 
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Oh I just realized I was helping you in not your thread :face-with-tears-of-joy:
Sort of TLDR summary that we (may have) covered so others can chime in here as well:

-Bigger sump (tsunami suggested due to cost but any brand is generally fine + doesn't need to be ultra fancy unless those are things you have to have)

-Since you're utilizing dual returns, one plumbed in a simple manner of all pvc or silicone to pvc would be ideal with the second pump being plumbed all pvc or silicone to pvc in a manifold for reactor(s), UV (if desired), skimmer (if necessary) and finishing into the display (alternatively finishing through uv into display) would be one of the ways I suggest plumbing (you can work out the details later since it's something you don't have to rush into)

-Lighting was determined as a skip on the AI blades as a primary lightsource (unless your research tells you otherwise since I mentioned I have 0 experience utilizing said lights so I can't offer what I would consider to be genuinely worthwhile output) and opt for a more well known/proven light (iirc you decided on the ap9x)

- Returns were determined to be 1" to match the presumed output size of the sicce sdc 9.0 (switch to 1.5" if it's 1.25" to reduce head pressure restrictions) and utilize 1.5" drains x3

-I went with the over kill 1" material on my 96x36x30 but from the general conversation of people much more knowledgable with acrylic than myself it seems that 3/4" would be fine per https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/crystal-clear-what-is-your-opinion-of-acrylic-reef-tanks.969783/

-Recommended seeing other 30"+ tanks to see how it may feel to do maintenance on said height since it is likely a challenge for most which is further amplified by stand height (sad because the taller on both ends generally the nicer looking but at what potential expense?)
You are seriously the best lol! The only thing really left on my list is buying all the plumbing parts, sump, tank, stand, light mounts, heaters, ATO storage, & water storage. I’m still working out the logistics of the tank and stand because I’m local to Tenecor but the owner hasn’t been on here. I was hoping if they could potentially make a 120” stand since their quoting person said they currently didn’t have enough material to make one that long. So I’m stuck on either waiting for a response on here or downgrading to a 96x36x30 size

just to loop everyone in, I have already ordered 4 mp60, regal 300 ext 12” skimmer, two reef mats 1200, trident & a3 apex bundle, 1/3 hp JBJ chiller, two sdc 9.0 pumps, 5 kessil ap9x, two vortech battery backups, 4 pack eco tech versa dosing pumps, & 7 stage RODI. I think that’s everything who knows I’ve sort of lost track.

for water storage, I might go with a few of these that I linked. I have a small storage closet behind the tank wall that will house small things since it has awkward 84x21x96 dimensions so I’m sadly not able to go as large as I want.

 
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Hello and welcome to the reefing game. Just so you can get an idea on some of the equipment that I run on my 344g system. My tank is 84Lx30.5x25.5 from Planet Aquariums with a 60inch custom Synergy Sump and have the following equipment below.

1. Reef octopus Regal 300 skimmer
2. 3- Ati Straton Led fixtures
3. 2- Vortech 60's
4. 1- Vortech Mp40
5. 2- 300 watt heater
6. 1- Varios 8 Return pump
7. Neptune Apex w/Trident
8. 2-ecotech Battery backups
9. 4300 watt Generator
10. Custom Geo Calcium Reactor
11. 130 gallon mixing container to house extra saltwater.
12. 65 gallon Ro auto top off
13. 200pds of Dry Rock
14. 400 gallon of salt
15. Flipper Glass Cleaner

PS. Take it slow, Read, Read, and re-read. A reef tank takes time to build, mature and grow. It took me 10+yrs to get to where I am today and started with a 55 gallon tank from walmart. Now, I have built my dream system. Big tanks require bigger everything!
Thank you so much, you can see everything I’ve ordered so far on my recent reply to c_awol. His guidance has been incredibly helpful and I seem to be on the right track.

i completely agree with taking it slow since a 96” or 120” (still deciding due to logistics issues) reef tank for a first timer won’t be easy but I have a lot of time on my hands to learn and upkeep the tank. I still ask stupid questions but thankfully there’s a few people on here that don’t mind taking their time to guide me through every little thing
 
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C_AWOL

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You are seriously the best lol! The only thing really left on my list is buying all the plumbing parts, sump, tank, stand, light mounts, heaters, ATO storage, & water storage. I’m still working out the logistics of the tank and stand because I’m local to Tenecor but the owner hasn’t been on here. I was hoping if they could potentially make a 120” stand since their quoting person said they currently didn’t have enough material to make one that long. So I’m stuck on either waiting for a response on here or downgrading to a 96x36x30 size

just to loop everyone in, I have already ordered 4 mp60, regal 300 ext 12” skimmer, two reef mats 1200, trident & a3 apex bundle, 1/3 hp JBJ chiller, two sdc 9.0 pumps, 5 kessil ap9x, two vortech battery backups, 4 pack eco tech versa dosing pumps, & 7 stage RODI. I think that’s everything who knows I’ve sort of lost track.

for water storage, I might go with a few of these that I linked. I have a small storage closet behind the tank wall that will house small things since it has awkward 84x21x96 dimensions so I’m sadly not able to go as large as I want.

Overall the list looks really solid for what you've purchased so far.
I see that ultimately the ac route vs a chiller wasn't suitable for you (which is okay) but it would've been nice if that worked out :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
Since you're local to tenecor, it might be worth taking some time to get a potential sump quote from them as well to simplify buying from a bunch of different places (unless the price difference is far too great out of their favor)
Alternatively if you were going the route of Advanced Acrylics/Tsunami (FIshtanksdirect) for the sump you can do the same with them for a display + possibly a stand.

A few suggestions to add based on the other items mentioned:

You don't really need ultra fancy heaters (looking at those titanium heaters). A few eheim jager + ranco nema4/whatever the aquarium rebrand is called heater controller is essentially unbeatable as far as reliability (technically any heater + ranco falls under that) It's an industrial thermal controller thats meant to handle frequent on and offs and depending on the model it can handle running a chiller if the temps go too high as well and you wont run into the issues of a premature outlet failure that you might experience on an apex outlet (if that was what was controlling your heater)

Do not over do the usage of unions. They're commonly an added unnecessary expense and even worse yet, an additional point of failure. Put them in areas which you know will need servicing (such as a UV depending on plumbing) vs every loop and corner where there really isn't a point in ever taking that apart unless you know you'll move in a really short span of time.

I also strongly suggest talking to an electrician to add a few dedicated breakers and additional outlets for just an aquarium of this size. A 450+ gallon potential tank (not even counting sump volume) consumes a **** ton of electricity and having one single shared 20 amp (or worse yet 15 amp) simply will not cut it. Assuming I'm remembering correctly a 20 amp breaker has a max load of 2400w

As far as water storage is concerned/mixing is concerned, as long as you can get in there comfortably and keep it clean/serviceable then that's ultimately what matters. You don't want to overdo it and end up with a rats nest of a mess in there (or literal one for that matter)
 
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Overall the list looks really solid for what you've purchased so far.
I see that ultimately the ac route vs a chiller wasn't suitable for you (which is okay) but it would've been nice if that worked out :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
Since you're local to tenecor, it might be worth taking some time to get a potential sump quote from them as well to simplify buying from a bunch of different places (unless the price difference is far too great out of their favor)
Alternatively if you were going the route of Advanced Acrylics/Tsunami (FIshtanksdirect) for the sump you can do the same with them for a display + possibly a stand.

A few suggestions to add based on the other items mentioned:

You don't really need ultra fancy heaters (looking at those titanium heaters). A few eheim jager + ranco nema4/whatever the aquarium rebrand is called heater controller is essentially unbeatable as far as reliability (technically any heater + ranco falls under that) It's an industrial thermal controller thats meant to handle frequent on and offs and depending on the model it can handle running a chiller if the temps go too high as well and you wont run into the issues of a premature outlet failure that you might experience on an apex outlet (if that was what was controlling your heater)

Do not over do the usage of unions. They're commonly an added unnecessary expense and even worse yet, an additional point of failure. Put them in areas which you know will need servicing (such as a UV depending on plumbing) vs every loop and corner where there really isn't a point in ever taking that apart unless you know you'll move in a really short span of time.

I also strongly suggest talking to an electrician to add a few dedicated breakers and additional outlets for just an aquarium of this size. A 450+ gallon potential tank (not even counting sump volume) consumes a **** ton of electricity and having one single shared 20 amp (or worse yet 15 amp) simply will not cut it. Assuming I'm remembering correctly a 20 amp breaker has a max load of 2400w

As far as water storage is concerned/mixing is concerned, as long as you can get in there comfortably and keep it clean/serviceable then that's ultimately what matters. You don't want to overdo it and end up with a rats nest of a mess in there (or literal one for that matter)
Do you happen to have an estimate of your tanks monthly water & electricity expense?

How should I design the overflow to be for everything I intend on running? & what to specially say in terms of what needs be plumbed into the tank.
 
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Do you happen to have an estimate of your tanks monthly water & electricity expense?

How should I design the overflow to be for everything I intend on running? & what to specially say in terms of what needs be plumbed into the tank.
I would suggest asking for an external overflow and tell them your intended pump usage to help guide them along. Using a modular marine overflow is also an option as well but I like the look of not having any internal overflow box.

Something I forgot to mention is getting input from others who also use 2 filter rollers to see if I missed something as far as drains are concerned. It will be difficult without reducing the drain lines to 1' at some point for each roller which will increase my recommended primary drains to 2-1' + 2-1.5" secondary/emergency drains

Lastly as far as just the 450 goes, it cost me almost 600 a month to run with 4 ap9x, 5 300w heaters, 4 mp60s, 2 red dragon 230w, uv (run exclusively for clarity), and a bubble king 300 + hydros controller and a decent amount of fixings.
Your electricity rates will be a lot lower than mine though but don't be surprised by anything fairly close.

Water on the other hand is way more reasonable at 160 a month (although for both the comparison chart of me vs neighbors is always hilarious)
 
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I would suggest asking for an external overflow and tell them your intended pump usage to help guide them along. Using a modular marine overflow is also an option as well but I like the look of not having any internal overflow box.

Something I forgot to mention is getting input from others who also use 2 filter rollers to see if I missed something as far as drains are concerned. It will be difficult without reducing the drain lines to 1' at some point for each roller which will increase my recommended primary drains to 2-1' + 2-1.5" secondary/emergency drains

Lastly as far as just the 450 goes, it cost me almost 600 a month to run with 4 ap9x, 5 300w heaters, 4 mp60s, 2 red dragon 230w, uv (run exclusively for clarity), and a bubble king 300 + hydros controller and a decent amount of fixings.
Your electricity rates will be a lot lower than mine though but don't be surprised by anything fairly close.

Water on the other hand is way more reasonable at 160 a month (although for both the comparison chart of me vs neighbors is always hilarious)
Holy hell! that electricity bill is gonna smack the crap out of me combined with the hot Arizona summers lol. Why do you say mine will be lower if my preference would be the 120”? Seems like the “downgrade” to a 96” might not be too bad after all:face-with-tears-of-joy:

I’ve seen you mention UV a few times and I keep forgetting to ask about it. Is it something that you recommend that I run or is it just a preference type of thing?
 
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Is there a specific seller or brand you’d suggest? Also what sand would you recommend?
If you have to have sand, then special grade from carribsea or any similar grain can hold up decently to some degree of flow without duning/creating that many bare patches (will still happen though)

As far as rock though, dry rock, real reef, carribsea life rock, waltsmith 2.0, etc all work. Dry marco rock is the most inexpensive but will take the longest to get the ball rolling (not a problem imo because it's not a race between hobbyist) but the tropic eden pukani subsitute is crazy nice and crazy expensive.
That's also one I would recommend looking at samples both here + in person to ultimately decide upon.
Lfs should definitely be able to do better pricing on real reef varieties or other rocks at the potential quantities you might buy though so keep that in mind if that's the winning option.
 
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Holy hell! that electricity bill is gonna smack the crap out of me combined with the hot Arizona summers lol. Why do you say mine will be lower if my preference would be the 120”? Seems like the “downgrade” to a 96” might not be too bad after all:face-with-tears-of-joy:

I’ve seen you mention UV a few times and I keep forgetting to ask about it. Is it something that you recommend that I run or is it just a preference type of thing?
My rates go as high as .50 a kwh. It's safe assume yours will be less.

As far as UV is concerned, it's not mandatory but it does make my water maginally more clear since the tank is 36" wide. Frankly if I wasn't gifted it, I wouldn't go out of my way to buy one (none of my other smaller tanks of 240g or smaller use one)
 
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I’m wanting to custom order an acrylic tank with a size of 96x36wX30H or 96x30wX30H but I’m new to the saltwater game. I’m wanting it to be mostly a sps or lps reef tank with around 10-25 fish but mostly tangs. What sump, skimmer, and other items would I need for this entire build. I’m trying to get a build list going so I can account for the entire set up cost. I’d like for it to be as minimalistic as possible but I know that’s sort of hard when reaching this size

The tank would be on the main floor of the house, no basement, large wide tile flooring, no crawl space. House built in 2008. Will be against a 159in wall that has a bathroom behind it
I've already seen a pretty good round of suggestions, but I would like to offer one that may be controversial. Weight aside glass is a much better choice than acrylic IMO. Not as clear as low iron glass and scratches very easy. I've had this glass tank 9yrs and even glass sometimes scratches. Like mine your tank will be sitting on a concrete slab foundation and weight not really a consideration other than maybe shipping and installation. I believe my 200g tank and stand were ~850 pounds on the palette so a 400g glass would probably be close to triple that with the thicker glass of a tank that size.
 
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