Herbie overflow and basement sump

[Ares]

I'm setting up a 180 gallon reef display on the main floor and my sump in the basement
Have a Reeflo Hammerhead/Barracuda Gold pump for my return (about 2800 GPH at 12' head)
The overflow has 2 - 1" drains in the center overflow and I want to do a herbie overflow.

My question is, with that big of a pump and I'm shooting for close to 10x turnover as I can, I'll have a gate valve on my return pump, is there a need for a gate valve on one of the drains still?

My guess is I'll probably tune the return pump so the main drain line is running wide open as a full siphon and just adjust the gate on the return to achieve this rather than adjust a gate on the drain but I'm not sure what a full siphon 1" at 12' can handle.

Does that sound like it will work without needing a gate on the drain?

I found a chart showing siphon flow rates but was looking at 12" drop being 1250 GPH for a 1" PVC.... and I'm looking at 12' drop instead. Will I need a gate valve on that drain as it would move a lot more than 10x water? If I'm at 2,000 - 2,200 GPH I would be fine with that.

any feedback would be much appreciated

 

[jessezm]

I HIGHLY recommend tuning the herbie via a gate valve on the main siphon, even if you have another valve dialing the flow back at the pump. I have a very similar set up with a basement sump and 2 1" drains (though I use dual sicce SDC 9.0 pumps for the return). having a gate valve on the return allows you to do the fine tuning AT the tank where you need to barely blow on the thing to go from hearing a rush to a trickle to dead silent. Try doing that downstairs, running upstairs and turning the valve, then running upstairs to see how much more to turn, etc etc. Pay the extra $15 and get a good gate valve and put it under the tank.

 

[Ares]

I HIGHLY recommend tuning the herbie via a gate valve on the main siphon, even if you have another valve dialing the flow back at the pump. I have a very similar set up with a basement sump and 2 1" drains (though I use dual sicce SDC 9.0 pumps for the return). having a gate valve on the return allows you to do the fine tuning AT the tank where you need to barely blow on the thing to go from hearing a rush to a trickle to dead silent. Try doing that downstairs, running upstairs and turning the valve, then running upstairs to see how much more to turn, etc etc. Pay the extra $15 and get a good gate valve and put it under the tank.

That's what I was thinking, and I bought quality gate valves already just got done dry fitting everything and before I glue wanted to double check, if I was going to have the drain valve wide open then there didn't seem much sense in even installing it.

I did find some calculations from Bean Animal and ran the numbers on a 1" drain at 12' straight drop and looking 3,500 GPH before you account for friction... that seams crazy that a 1" straight pipe at full siphon can move that much water and if that is indeed the case then I absolutely would need a gate on the drain.

 

[jessezm]

Yeah it will really dump! I got everything dialed way back and glad I have the option to do it! But really for me the key is being able to do it at the tank and not downstairs where I can't hear it...

Good luck!

 

[jhall2242]

I am about to plumb my 150gal tank with a basement sump. Running a Blueline 70HD which should put out 1260gph after the turns and 13’ of head. I am running a 1” return. The tank came with two 1” drains. Any pointers on setting that up?

 

[tdyrkacz]

This is an old thread, but i'm wondering if the gate valve for main drain should really be under the tank or in the basement. Doesn't the entire line have to fill with water to avoid noise?