Here it is! Fenbendazole use against hydroids

Dimorb

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I'll try once more. :)

I am thinking on using this method but would like to hear if someone with nitrate reactors have done this before me?

I have alot of big fish in my aquarium and I need nitrate reactors to keep up with nitrate reduction. They are depending on bacteria will this method interfer with the filters? Any knowledge?

Anyone read this: https://www.researchgate.net/public...ndazole_and_flubendazole_to_aquatic_organisms ??

Do you know if anyone with nitrate reactors have tried this and what was the result?

Having a 2000 liters mixed reef with alot of fish and alot of money in this aquarium so a little nervous about dosing.

I'm not that worried regarding fish and corals but if the fenbendazole have a negative impact on the nitrate reactors I will have a big problem.

Also looking for a list of what sorts of coral gets affected..

At this moment I have alot of lps, some sps and ALOT of zoas.
 

Reef and Dive

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Just finished my tank treatment for hydrois with an excellent result.

Thank you Todd for the amazing work and a special thanks for my friend @junio melo that helped me a lot.

I registered my treatment and uploaded to youtube to whom it might interest:

 
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twilliard

twilliard

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I can't thank you enough for this. When I logged back on after having to take a break back in 2016 I had over 160 requests for my assistance and advice from all over the world.
This thread is from 2015 and still goes to show with attention to detail this method still works.
 

Reef and Dive

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I can't thank you enough for this. When I logged back on after having to take a break back in 2016 I had over 160 requests for my assistance and advice from all over the world.
This thread is from 2015 and still goes to show with attention to detail this method still works.

You deserve the best recognition! It worked perfectly.

Thank YOU sir!!
 

Nalini Akolekar

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Just so you know
I treated 3 different times.
1mg
1.5mg
4mg for a week

Those buggers still came back
now i am trying to manage them with kalk paste and will see if tuxedo urchins will eat them. So signs that they do

good luck
We’re you ever able to beat them? I’ve done two back to back treatments with fenbendezole. ive lost several corals and am now battling tremendous algae overgrowth. It’s weird algae too, looks powdery but is more of a crust. Gah!
 

menglish

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They are not completely gone. They are really under control. I can see some in a few places. Every so often when my hands are in the tank, i use a tooth brush to brush some off
 

Jstn

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I tried a second (third treatment) of 1 packet a day (250mg for 120) for 3 days no carbon skimmer or water change (i ended up adding 3 paclets or 3x the recommended dose) after my water change and carbon 2 days later these hydroids are opening back up. This treatment is ineffective and i wouldnt waste my time doing it again.
 

Bleigh

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Was just directed to this thread after determining I have hydroids....

After realizing I have yet another pest from (I'm assuming) purchasing live rock at a LFS, I have decided I will always use dry rock from here on out. I scrolled a bit and it seems treatments are hit or miss and am not really sure how to proceed. Lord, I hate pests!
 

Igor Machado

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I gave up on this stuff after numerous dosing and still finding digita hydroids in my tank.

I bought a coral Banded shrimp and watched him eat all the digi’s
Nice to hear that you found a biological control to them. It really solve the problem?

I have a new tank and it is infested with digitata hydroids. In the morning we can see thousands of them in the sand bed. They are bothering a lot my GSP (turning brown and losing tissue). Pod population seems to be dramatically affected. They also started to hit zoa frags.

I've just read on other thread that peppermints shrimps works well too. Anyone else have good experience with biological control?
 

petemichelle

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NOTHING WORKS!!!!! HYDROIDS ARE FROM HELLL!!!! I have tried, and tried and tried. I tried the fenbendazole over and over, it works somewhat but they always come back. I tried some private vendor who sent me capsules, and same result, they come back. I was up to 5 packs of 250mg for a 135 gal water volume on a 150 gal tank. that's 5 packs per treatment, 1 treatment every 2-3 days, and still they come back.

the only control is feeding. feed less, they subside. keep that up for about a year and they are almost out of sight. have to really look to see them in the shady under rock spaces. start feeding more and they multiply. NOTHING IN THE WORLD EATS THEM. i've poured every kind of shrimp, snail, wrasse, tang, nobody will touch the stuff unless its already dead, then they will eat it.

all the snails died except some cerith snails. I still can't keep any snails. will last only a couple of days. ALL THE ZOAS died, and most of the SPS went into RTN. even the LPS'S started dying. I was using that much of it, and still it came back. I treated the tank, sump, all my barrel, containers and tools at the same time. it took me days and days of all out labor, with help from my family, wife kids, etc, dogs....

i've had this tank up for more than 10 years and it is full to the rim with corals, but I know if I start feeding more, they will come back, and they will choke out the corals.

If I ever started over, I would never, never put anything in my display without a 2 month quarantine. the reason I haven't taken it down and started over is because I don't have a quarantine tank and so I push on. One day when all the kids move out and I have enough room for a quarantine tank I will start a new display tank all over, until then keep the feeding down. way down.....

thumbnail_IMG_7815.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7816.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7818.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7819.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7820.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7821.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7822.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7823.jpg
 

KenO

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This is only from my experience. So I'm not sure if this would work for everyone. I added a Melanurus Wrasse to help with some flatworms. Once the wrasse was done with the flatworms it ate every small feather worm and hydroid in my tank. Again I'm not sure if they normally eat them or not. Just my experience.
 

Fragzilla

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I’ve ended up going for a biological approach once it became evident that the Fenbendazole did *** all.

I already had a CBS and I still had hydroids but after I added a Hawaiian 4 line wrasse and Mexican Turbo snails they have all but disappeared (apart from the ones growing out from an injured monti. If I had to put my dollar (in my case pound) on who was eating the hydroids I would say it’s the wrasse. Anyone still struggling after many different types of intervention should start feeding pellets and drop the additional nutrient control and just use a skimmer to keep the food out the water column, drop the nutrient control as your corals need nutes if the skimmer takes all the food out the water column.
 

Reef and Dive

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NOTHING WORKS!!!!! HYDROIDS ARE FROM HELLL!!!! I have tried, and tried and tried. I tried the fenbendazole over and over, it works somewhat but they always come back. I tried some private vendor who sent me capsules, and same result, they come back. I was up to 5 packs of 250mg for a 135 gal water volume on a 150 gal tank. that's 5 packs per treatment, 1 treatment every 2-3 days, and still they come back.

the only control is feeding. feed less, they subside. keep that up for about a year and they are almost out of sight. have to really look to see them in the shady under rock spaces. start feeding more and they multiply. NOTHING IN THE WORLD EATS THEM. i've poured every kind of shrimp, snail, wrasse, tang, nobody will touch the stuff unless its already dead, then they will eat it.

all the snails died except some cerith snails. I still can't keep any snails. will last only a couple of days. ALL THE ZOAS died, and most of the SPS went into RTN. even the LPS'S started dying. I was using that much of it, and still it came back. I treated the tank, sump, all my barrel, containers and tools at the same time. it took me days and days of all out labor, with help from my family, wife kids, etc, dogs....

i've had this tank up for more than 10 years and it is full to the rim with corals, but I know if I start feeding more, they will come back, and they will choke out the corals.

If I ever started over, I would never, never put anything in my display without a 2 month quarantine. the reason I haven't taken it down and started over is because I don't have a quarantine tank and so I push on. One day when all the kids move out and I have enough room for a quarantine tank I will start a new display tank all over, until then keep the feeding down. way down.....

thumbnail_IMG_7815.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7816.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7818.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7819.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7820.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7821.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7822.jpg thumbnail_IMG_7823.jpg

My experience was quite different from yours... Hydroids gone untill today...
 

Jstn

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Has anyone found a solution that works?Im about to break down my tank and retire from the hobby, these hydroids spread and its all i see when i see my tank, its now a chore not a hobby.

These things sting my arm pretty bad if i rub up against them while doing maintenance (accidentally), not sure if other have this experience?
 
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Bleigh

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I’ve ended up going for a biological approach once it became evident that the Fenbendazole did *** all.

I already had a CBS and I still had hydroids but after I added a Hawaiian 4 line wrasse and Mexican Turbo snails they have all but disappeared (apart from the ones growing out from an injured monti. If I had to put my dollar (in my case pound) on who was eating the hydroids I would say it’s the wrasse. Anyone still struggling after many different types of intervention should start feeding pellets and drop the additional nutrient control and just use a skimmer to keep the food out the water column, drop the nutrient control as your corals need nutes if the skimmer takes all the food out the water column.

Are those as aggressive as a 6 line? I had to break my entire tank apart and ended up injuring another fish trying to get my 6 line out.
 

Mikeneedsahobby

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This thread is bad for my manic depression. It’s a miracle, they are eradicated!
It does nothing give up now!

can someone confirm these are hydroids. Before I start too far down this rocky road I want to be sure I’m attacking the right problem.

35E54C3E-0293-4A58-B3BC-48935D905459.jpeg
 

menglish

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After reviewing many pages of this thread, it seem that fenbendazole works best on hydroids and not so well on clove polyps.
can anyone confirm that this drug has permanently gotten rid of their purple clove polyps?
 

Jevans1000

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It kills the **** out of my digitate hydroids unfortunately after about a month and a half they come back, it will start with one or two then 5 then 10 and i have to dose again, I've given up on getting a nem since fishbendazole kills them. We need to know more about the life cycle of these things I'm starting to think they lay eggs in the sand because they can stay dormant for a long time and then get treated again and come back after being dormant... AGAIN. I'm going to treat and change out my substrate and see if that helps but im starting to think they lay dormant in the live rock
 

kartrsu

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Does anyone know where I can get pure fenbendazole? Seems like thomas labs is not 100% pure. Found this on amazon, but it's a lot of tablets.



Also, are there any ill effects on porcelain crabs because they feed from the water column?
 

Peanut

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Does anyone know where I can get pure fenbendazole? Seems like thomas labs is not 100% pure. Found this on amazon, but it's a lot of tablets.



Also, are there any ill effects on porcelain crabs because they feed from the water column?


The only inactive ingredients listed on Thomas Labs is Dextrose and Maltodextrin
 
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