High Nitrates

Joekovar

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I have check all the seals inside the canisters, and used two different membranes. I will call the utility company later this morning to see if they changed the way of making water...

Did you inspect inside the unit itself? Because the only way you're getting 50 GPH is if a) there's a bad internal gasket, b) there's a crack inside the unit, c) there's a bypass you don't know about on the unit.

I assumed you're smart enough to see if your unit has a bypass... So rather than jump to the worst case scenario of a crack, I figured internal gasket.
 
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Signalhead

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Did you inspect inside the unit itself? Because the only way you're getting 50 GPH is if a) there's a bad internal gasket, b) there's a crack inside the unit, c) there's a bypass you don't know about on the unit.

I assumed you're smart enough to see if your unit has a bypass... So rather than jump to the worst case scenario of a crack, I figured internal gasket.
Did you inspect inside the unit itself? Because the only way you're getting 50 GPH is if a) there's a bad internal gasket, b) there's a crack inside the unit, c) there's a bypass you don't know about on the unit.

I assumed you're smart enough to see if your unit has a bypass... So rather than jump to the worst case scenario of a crack, I figured internal gasket.

I did, I removed the Membrane and looked inside the chamber and where the membrane goes is good. Now I did not checked/ test the auto shut off. Even with the Flush kit i get those strange numbers.
Now the new unit is way simpler: line in to the 3 filters, comes out and it goes to the screw end of the membrane cap thru the membrane and has two lines on the other end. One to waste and the other to the DI. (i ordered the Auto Shut off and a Large Flow restrictor)
 

Shirak

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Ok so the if I understand correctly. The new unit is running with the water supply going through 3 prefilters then to the screw cap into the membrane housing and then you have only the two lines out the other end. One line is your waste and one is your RO out that feeds the DI cartridge. Which line do you have going to the DI cartridge? The line from the center or the line from the outer edge of the membrane housing? And there are no other items on this unit currently such as auto shut off, flow restrictor etc.
 
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Signalhead

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Ok so the if I understand correctly. The new unit is running with the water supply going through 3 prefilters then to the screw cap into the membrane housing and then you have only the two lines out the other end. One line is your waste and one is your RO out that feeds the DI cartridge. Which line do you have going to the DI cartridge? The line from the center or the line from the outer edge of the membrane housing? And there are no other items on this unit currently such as auto shut off, flow restrictor etc.
The center line is going to the DI and the offset (black) line to the waste. No, which I found odd and I failed to read the fine print. I jus got and order from BRS and I will be installing them today. I will replace the DI too, theres too much empty space on the clear canister...
 

Shirak

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Center line to DI is good. What's the TDS measure coming out of the center line before going to the DI cartridge?

You mentioned a booster pump earlier. What is your pressure going into the RO unit?
 
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Signalhead

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Center line to DI is good. What's the TDS measure coming out of the center line before going to the DI cartridge?

You mentioned a booster pump earlier. What is your pressure going into the RO unit?
on the new unit 280 from the utility 13 after membrane and 9 after DI. I disconnected the pump when I replaced the old unit with the new one. But ot puts about 70 PSI
 

45ZoaGarden

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+1 the output from my membrane drops it down to 0. As for the op, check the tds on your waste, I think you have them mixed up. 50gph is VERY high. Most units produce around 5 gph. That algae looks like cyano imo. As for dropping nitrates, cheato, biopellets, and heavy skimming is always an effective measure :)
Clearly there is a problem there! The out put from the membrane should be 10 or less. I think you have the waste and product lines mixed up. What is the TDS of the waste line?
 
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Signalhead

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Do you know how old ALL of the membranes are?
No I dont, on the old system the first one was stored on the shelf, the second was refrigerated and the one with the new unit was preinstalled, i just installed the second DI chamber the output is holding steady at 0
 

45ZoaGarden

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I’m going with the old di was bad.
No I dont, on the old system the first one was stored on the shelf, the second was refrigerated and the one with the new unit was preinstalled, i just installed the second DI chamber the output is holding steady at 0
 

Shirak

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on the new unit 280 from the utility 13 after membrane and 9 after DI. I disconnected the pump when I replaced the old unit with the new one. But ot puts about 70 PSI

13 after the membrane isn't too bad. When you first turn it on it will be higher.. 80-100 and should drop down to 10 range after a few minutes. Final tds depends on the membrane rejection rate and source water.. Most good TFC membranes are around 98% rejection so if you are starting with 280 then you should see 5-6 tds after 10-15 minutes or so. It probably won't go much lower than that.

Just a side note. To preserve the longevity of your DI resin. Bypass the RO water for the first couple minutes to flush out the salts. Then let it run through the DI cartridge to collect your water. You can use the RO water for houseplants/coffee etc
 

DarthSimon

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This might sound crazy, but I got an RODI System from a very large retail outfit, will remain nameless, and it was installed upside down. Caused my Blue Resin to exhaust super fast until I realized what was going on.
 
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Signalhead

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13 after the membrane isn't too bad. When you first turn it on it will be higher.. 80-100 and should drop down to 10 range after a few minutes. Final tds depends on the membrane rejection rate and source water.. Most good TFC membranes are around 98% rejection so if you are starting with 280 then you should see 5-6 tds after 10-15 minutes or so. It probably won't go much lower than that.

Just a side note. To preserve the longevity of your DI resin. Bypass the RO water for the first couple minutes to flush out the salts. Then let it run through the DI cartridge to collect your water. You can use the RO water for houseplants/coffee etc
I just dump it on a 5 gallon bucket and use it on the shrubs
 

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