HOB filter media replacement

LifeOfAquatics

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Do I have to replace (like completely get rid of) my filter cartridge in my hob filter for my reef tank? Or would washing it out be enough? Also, how often should I replace/wash the cartridge?
 

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Carbon likely shot- replace
 

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sorry im new to the hobby and a bit confused. what do you mean carbon likely shot? also, when you said replace, you mean replace the filter cartridge entirely right? how often should i do this?
What brand HOB filter do you have? Let us know more about the “cartridges”. Some have filter floss with carbon other have a more spongy (more porous) cartridge some have both. If one has carbon, these should be replaced as carbon has an effective lifetime. The more porous sponge serves more as your biological filter. If it’s dirty and clogged it can be rinsed with non-chlorinated water but don’t clean it off too much.
 

vetteguy53081

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sorry im new to the hobby and a bit confused. what do you mean carbon likely shot? also, when you said replace, you mean replace the filter cartridge entirely right? how often should i do this?
The cartridge known as spent (used up) contains carbon and should be replaced
 

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What brand HOB filter do you have? Let us know more about the “cartridges”. Some have filter floss with carbon other have a more spongy (more porous) cartridge some have both. If one has carbon, these should be replaced as carbon has an effective lifetime. The more porous sponge serves more as your biological filter. If it’s dirty and clogged it can be rinsed with non-chlorinated water but don’t clean it off too much.
This.

Different brands will have different 'cartridges' and they can be mechanical, biological, and/or chemical filtration. And whether they need to be replaced, or even washed at all, varies depending on what type of filter medium it is, and well, what brand it is even.
 
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LifeOfAquatics

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What brand HOB filter do you have? Let us know more about the “cartridges”. Some have filter floss with carbon other have a more spongy (more porous) cartridge some have both. If one has carbon, these should be replaced as carbon has an effective lifetime. The more porous sponge serves more as your biological filter. If it’s dirty and clogged it can be rinsed with non-chlorinated water but don’t clean it off too much.
it was a aqua tech 100gph filter with a blue filter pad with carbon inside it. I think a google search will be more helpful in determining it.
 
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LifeOfAquatics

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This.

Different brands will have different 'cartridges' and they can be mechanical, biological, and/or chemical filtration. And whether they need to be replaced, or even washed at all, varies depending on what type of filter medium it is, and well, what brand it is even.
it was a aqua tech 100gph filter with a blue filter pad with carbon inside it. I think a google search will be more helpful in determining it.
 

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it was a aqua tech 100gph filter with a blue filter pad with carbon inside it. I think a google search will be more helpful in determining it.
Typically on these forums, we stop giving advice once you have been steered so closely in the correct direction, that it would be hard to miss. Did you figure out your answer? Is this the filter? Do you understand what recommendations were offered and why? I just googled Aquatech 100gph and this is the first image that came up. See the red circle below.

R2R.png
 
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Typically on these forums, we stop giving advice once you have been steered so closely in the correct direction, that it would be hard to miss. Did you figure out your answer? Is this the filter? Do you understand what recommendations were offered and why? I just googled Aquatech 100gph and this is the first image that came up. See the red circle below.

R2R.png
I sort of figured it out. replace every 1 week is what I have understood for now. mainly for a lightly stocked tank. yes that is the filter. i didn't get much recommendations so i don't fully understand. i just got the 1-2 week thing from other posts.
 

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The box says to change the carbon filter monthly but not to change the bio floss. I think that is sufficient for a lightly stocked tank. Is there another question that hasn’t been answered?

No one can really tell you exactly what to do, but a good gauge is to test your water. If you’re interested in this hobby and have invested in a water quality testing kit, you will probably start to see your nitrates begin to rise after one month of not changing your filter. Maybe you would not see any changes for 2 months. That’s one barometer for how “clean” your water may be.
 
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LifeOfAquatics

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The box says to change the carbon filter monthly but not to change the bio floss. I think that is sufficient for a lightly stocked tank. Is there another question that hasn’t been answered?

No one can really tell you exactly what to do, but a good gauge is to test your water. If you’re interested in this hobby and have invested in a water quality testing kit, you will probably start to see your nitrates begin to rise after one month of not changing your filter. Maybe you would not see any changes for 2 months. That’s one barometer for how “clean” your water may be.
so when nitrates begin rising even with water changes, that's when I should change right?
 

brandon429

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am posting this for readers in general:

what happens with the media in this canister filter / its surface area wont impact the reef at all, we all already have orders more surface area than needed even without any extra filter.

a quarantine tank might not

but a display tank always does.

the biological surface area here doesn't make a measurable difference on the tank. if you removed the filter altogether, ammonia control stays the exact same.

if you hooked up eight of these filters, ran them for three years, instantly removed them, the ammonia stays the same. Extra filters are not tied to cycling control in a display setup, we have all the needed zones without them.

extra surface area is not integral to any reef tank, its live rock is the base filter and that's all anyone needs although adding miles of extra surface area like we all do is still ok.

no filters are integral links in a reef tank. they can all be instantly removed and when tracked on seneye or digital ammonia meters, they'll comply instantly contrary to popular view


why does any of this matter: effective design for todays reef tanks. sets boundaries for home moves, tank upgrades etc whether or not filters must be kept in line

its important to know this filter is 100% inconsequential at all times. that means wash it, don't wash it, does not matter.

(all the obsession over rinsing media doesn't amount to much when we test someone's typical sandbed for filth stored up. having clean pads and a rotten sandbed isn't a benefit)

it matters in freshwater sometimes, though. (due to the nature and presentation of surface area between fw and sw)
 
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JeffLED

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so when nitrates begin rising even with water changes, that's when I should change right?
I should have been more clear. This is not quite what I meant. In this case, I think the best advice you get is on the box - change your filter once a month for your lightly stocked tank and you will be fine.

I was inferring that if you see a decline in the quality of your water or some other change in your water quality, you waited too long to change a filter or perform a water change (or some other maintenance item). It is a pattern you will start to know with your tank, it is part of the hobby is figuring your own way around, so not one can tell you exactly when to change your filter. If in doubt, more maintenance is always better especially with the cheapo filters for a few dollars.
 

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