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You’re right I don’t really want to lower alk because I use fritz pro and it mixes between 8.0-9.0. I use an alkatronic to test and maintain my alk. I was running between 8.2-8.4 and everything was ok, but I was getting white tips. My lines clogged up and when I replaced them I accidentally got it up to 8.6. For some reason it has not come back down. I’m thinking it may be because I have been over feeding and now adding nitrate to raise nutrients. I believe there was a thread randy posted about when nitrates are consumed alkalinity can raise. I’m think it could also be because I tried lowering light intensity because of the burning tips and now the sps aren’t growing as fast as they were. I also have some algae issues so there’s definitely some imbalances going on for sure.You're overthinking it your base salt mix probably mixes at 8 to 8.6 dkh if using io reef Crystal's when mixed to 1.025
U don't want to lower alk instead figure out daily alk consumption by not dosing for a couple days record see the correlations in the swings and adjust accordingly
To me personally its sounds like u went hard on bottles how are u supplementing alk? Because why else would the alk be high?
Are u using 3 part bottles or kalk?
U got a pereistatic dosing pump or are u dosing by hand?
Also which salt do u use as a base?
But its sounds to me like u shoulda waited for calcerous coraline algae biofilm to form( outcompete turf and bryopsis which can cause alot of problems in sps systems) ( 12 to 18 month mark) if coraline can survive then sps can too
But also u may wanna try something like polyp labs polypbooster wait for pe then feed phyto and oyster feast
It sounds like hungry coral u may just be feeding them the wrong diet sps font really need larger foods like mysis and spirulina which is traditionally used but instead do better when drawing carbs from water colum that's why aminos are crucial to any sps keeper to boost the color aswell as make sure the coral is eating smaller foods like roe and oyster eggs work better as meaty foods zoo and phyto also are crucial in the diet of sps
I would go with something like coral frenzy over reefroids as the frenzy wont spike p but also has probiotics and other additives that are superfoods and u could feed it every day if u wanted without bombing the sy
I do have alot of coraline algae growing. However I believe it’s just a slight unbalance with the chemistry. From what I’ve read higher alk can cause the skeleton to grow faster than the tissue. I actually do feed reef roids occasionally and dose phyto. I do plan on dosing some bacteria to seed and help out compete the algaes, but I believe the algae have just started from the imbalances.But its sounds to me like u shoulda waited for calcerous coraline algae biofilm to form( outcompete turf and bryopsis which can cause alot of problems in sps systems) ( 12 to 18 month mark) if coraline can survive then sps can too
But also u may wanna try something like polyp labs polypbooster wait for pe then feed phyto and oyster feast
It sounds like hungry coral u may just be feeding them the wrong diet sps font really need larger foods like mysis and spirulina which is traditionally used but instead do better when drawing carbs from water colum that's why aminos are crucial to any sps keeper to boost the color aswell as make sure the coral is eating smaller foods like roe and oyster eggs work better as meaty foods zoo and phyto also are crucial in the diet of sps
I would go with something like coral frenzy over reefroids as the frenzy wont spike p but also has probiotics and other additives that are superfoods and u could feed it every day if u wanted without bombing the system
IMO, a few ppm nitrate is probably adequate to prevent burnt tips at 8.6 dKH. I do not think more than 10 ppm is desirabl
Just got 8.7 alk reading so it does seem alk wants to climb with the consumption of the nitrates. I’m hoping if I stay steady at the 2ppm a day I should be ok maybe in a week I’ll be looking at 10nitrate and 9.0 alkIMO, a few ppm nitrate is probably adequate to prevent burnt tips at 8.6 dKH. I do not think more than 10 ppm is desirable.
Also is there a substrate substrates like crushed coral and sand can help with mineral depletion in a smaller system
Just got 8.7 alk reading so it does seem alk wants to climb with the consumption of the nitrates. I’m hoping if I stay steady at the 2ppm a day I should be ok maybe in a week I’ll be looking at 10nitrate and 9.0 alk
So I’m a bit embarrassed to admit this, but a little over a week ago I had to explain to the wife how to fill up the ato with r/o and turn it back on to get it to stop beeping. I found out two days ago it never got turned back on. Needless to say that was part of my issue.Sounds good. Let us know how it turns out.
Do you think letting things ride out is the best course of action as far as the algae goes? I know dr Tim’s and mb7 works I used dr Tim’s waste away around the 3 month mark of my tank. I had a few corals (torches, acans, zoas) no negative side affects. I always went with half the recommended dose. My tank is 7 months now and it seems like when I dosed the bacteria the next 2-3 days resulted in rtn. I can not find any real correlation between mb7 and sps death in my research. I have read a few people mention it with dr Tim’s waste away.Things happen!
Thanks for the update.
While increasing nutrients in the reef tank via feeding more, dosing nutrients. Do I need to stop dosing alkalinity until the desired alkalinity is achieved?You risk burnt tips at higher alk and low nutrients, but the paleness is more likely from just the low nutrients alone.
I'd personally dose nutrients or feed more and let alk slowly fall, rather than solve only part of the problem by lowering alk fast.
To lower alk, IMO, it is a better plan to lower the alk in water change water using any mix you want (can lower to zero if you want), than to add things to the aquarium to lower alk because of the large pH drop that can be fixed in new salt water but not so easily in the tank.
While increasing nutrients in the reef tank via feeding more, dosing nutrients. Do I need to stop dosing alkalinity until the desired alkalinity is achieved?
While increasing nutrients in the reef tank via feeding more, dosing nutrients. Do I need to stop dosing alkalinity until the desired alkalinity is achieved?
BUMPYou risk burnt tips at higher alk and low nutrients, but the paleness is more likely from just the low nutrients alone.
I'd personally dose nutrients or feed more and let alk slowly fall, rather than solve only part of the problem by lowering alk fast.
To lower alk, IMO, it is a better plan to lower the alk in water change water using any mix you want (can lower to zero if you want), than to add things to the aquarium to lower alk because of the large pH drop that can be fixed in new salt water but not so easily in the tank.
BUMP
I dont get what you are saying that any salt mix can lower to 0. I am having the same problem and just lost my 24kt torch! My alk is at 12. I like to keep at 9.5 but all the lower alk mixes also seem to have lower mag and calcium!
I love Fritz and its a good price. I am thinking of buying some red sea (to mix with it) but has low calcium and mag too!
I cant just let it fall on it own because I keep getting high alk lately from fritz. I did leave the bag open and it got moist. Could that be why I am experiencing high alk. Plus I need to clean my bin. There is a lot of calcium precip in it! I also used to store the dry salt in my Florida garage so maybe thats why! I am baffled although I have read many compliants on here about the same thing!
Do you know of any salt that mixes 9.5 or so with not low calcium and magesium. Icat seem to find a single one!
Also if I add a acid to lower if I add an airstone will that keep it from lowering my ph?