How do i get rid of the trickling sound?

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Jonas Bergkvist

Jonas Bergkvist

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For your second question, your return pump will experience different resistance (pressure) depending on the water level. That can change it's performance. Same will go for a protein skimmer. That is why it's imperative to place your skimmer in one of the other sections(not the return if you can help it) of your sump to keep the water level consistent.
As the tank ages, your overflow pipes will grow some sludge inside and change their efficiency. Not by much, but every so often you may find yourself tweaking the flow to accommodate. You'll know when (your overflow box will tell you). This is why having a gate valve( easier to fine tune) is so much better than having all ball valves.
Also, having an auto top-off will make life a bit easier. They're relatively inexpensive, but will be a blessing when you eventually are going to be worrying about keeping your parameters stable.
Thank you for the explanation! I will get an ATO soon, because i have experienced that my tank evaporates like maybe four litres a day! I can refill it every now and then no problem, but as you say it would be very good to have stable parameters. Later down the road i will get som corals and i heard the more stable the system is, the better the chance of them surviving.
 
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Jonas Bergkvist

Jonas Bergkvist

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I use 45 degree fittings on the top my drain lines keeping them quite at a variety of flow rates. Also they will get quieter as the get a film on them over time.
Yeah i have 90 degree bends there right now :( if i had known i would get 45 bends instead :)
 

Garf

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yes that is exactly it :)

How about a DIY wave fence like this one on the left.

83AB1205-D51D-45E7-947F-ADBF75242911.jpeg
 

slojim

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cool thread - I've never seen that maggie muffler before. I don't seem to need it, but those kinds of solutions interest me.
regarding the slurp in the blue - if this is intended to be a beanimal type system, and it looks like it is, that open channel should have a tee with a cap and an air line such that when it transitions to high flow from trickle flow, it also transitions to siphon mode.
My system will gurgle and siphon for a few hours on start-up as the open channel switches from trickle to siphon (flush) unless I play with the various valves to help it along, but it eventually balances out. I think it would balance faster if I had not grossly oversized the piping for the flow I have, but I did that on purpose. I generally keep the siphon restricted so there will be enough flow to maintain a trickle at the open channel (your blue pipe)
I use strainers to keep critters out, but they do very little for balancing flow in my case. They used to plug, but now I keep a black cover over them so they get no light. I guess that muffler would serve the same purpose.
 

laverda

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I don’t get the need for the b animal set up. I get no slurping or anything when starting my system or at any speed my return pump runs at. I don’t have to adjust any valves to try to get it quite. Most people are amazed how quite my tanks have always been. I just have 45 degree angles on the top of my stand pipes. I do take the time to remove any flashing and the sharp on the inside corners to prevent splashing. Takes 1 minuet with a Dremel, a little longer if you use sand paper. I don’t put an angled fitting on the emergency drain as I want to hear if it is being used.
 

CollectOyster04

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The basic premise to a bean animal overflow is redundancy. If you have 3 pipes (primary/secondary/emergency), you have a bean animal type setup as opposed to a Herbie overflow (2 pipes, primary/secondary). In my opinion(doesn't mean much), the elbows are not a necessity, but do help in the effectiveness of the overflow. One hopes never to have to use the emergency pipe in such a capacity, but without an elbow, there's a greater likelihood of it sucking air and not keeping the siphon while trying to drain the overflow during a catastrophic event. With the elbow in place, during a catastrophic event, you will hear it. It will sound like a toilet being flushed as the siphon (given your pipes were sized appropriately or oversized in my case), drains the overflow box faster than the water coming into it.
With oversized pipes, it seems it would take a bit longer to equalize during startup before it would quiet down. The smaller the pipes you have, I'd imagine the quicker and quieter this process would be. On my old 300, I went with 1½" pipes. Knowing that if it got to that point, my emergency would handle a ton of water if needing to make a siphon. Never had to adjust (just minor tweaks over time) anything after the initial setup of the overflow.
Sometimes during a reboot, air could get trapped in a pipe and slow the process of the overflow getting quiet. Playing with the valves at this point is more to help speed up the process of bleeding the air out, but is not a necessity. If you happen to be around during the reboot, it can get annoying listening to the overflow while it gets to it's equilibrium, lol, so I get the playing with the valves to help speed the process.
 

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