How do you guys lower Nitrates?

vahegan

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What are your phosphates?
If the phosphate is zero, it may help to dose some to help get rig of the nitrates. Pellets/vodka and other biological methods will remove nitrates and phosphates as a bundle only, in a very rough estimate of 10:1 proportion.
 

sghera64

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As the system is only 3 Months old, you are probably doing very good. New systems often struggle with high NO3 and PO4 for a while until the full biodiversity kicks in.

One way to lower is to pack the system with coral. One thing to watch out for is the NO3 in the water changes. You might measure the new salt water mix to be sure it is not adding NO3 - - from the DI water, the mix or the mixing bucket. We've seen cases where reefers have discovered NO3 bumps up after a W/C and it was their make-up mix causing it.
 

Rmckoy

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20-25 nitrates isn’t bad …..
when I started fighting high nitrates they were 80-120 possibly even closer to 160+ using api .

now since maturing I have trouble maintaining nitrates above 5ppm
 

josephxsxn

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Water changes of course and I run a sulfur denitrator. My old tank I used a sulfur denitrator as well with great success, but I decided to try biopellets on my new tank before giving in and going back to the sulfur denitrator.
 

Dkmoo

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I think having a young tank contributes to the high numbers as well. A lot of different things "eat" no3 and po4, algae, coral, bacteria, etc.. as your tank matures and this biomass increases both in number and in diversity, you will seen no3 becoming less and less of a problem. Until you get there, a refugium would be your best bet, not only does the algae growing there soak up the no3 and po4 super fast, it also provides a refuge for other microfauna to establish
 

genetao

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I built this DIY algae scrubber for like $35.
The two main components are the container and light.

I purchased two lights for two different algae scrubbers. But you can just buy one for your build.
I have a 65 gallon FOLWR and feed very heavy (6-8 times a day) because I have purple anthias.
nitrate = 1-2
Phosphate = 0.1-0.2

I have the light on a timer 16 hours a day. Too aggressive of filtering, reduce the number of hours the light is running. Not enough? Then run it longer.
Other parts include screen stitching grid from hobby store and a slow running pump (100-200 gph)
pluming parts sourced from Home Depot.
 

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genetao

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I built this DIY algae scrubber for like $35.
The two main components are the container and light.

I purchased two lights for two different algae scrubbers. But you can just buy one for your build.
I have a 65 gallon FOLWR and feed very heavy (6-8 times a day) because I have purple anthias.
nitrate = 1-2
Phosphate = 0.1-0.2

I have the light on a timer 16 hours a day. Too aggressive of filtering, reduce the number of hours the light is running. Not enough? Then run it longer.
Other parts include screen stitching grid from hobby store and a slow running pump (100-200 gph)
pluming parts sourced from Home Depot.
One other part I forgot to mention. The bulkhead is 1/2” and got that BRS. But I think you can order online from Home Depot too or Lowe’s.
 

Reefer4fun

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I have 2 systems. One of them(45gal) has an Eheim 2215 filled with Siporax and Matrix. The nano (20gal) has 4 liters of siporax only in the sump. I use the Siporax to replace/reduce the amount of liverock on the display. Both can bring the nitrates down to zero fairly quickly when boosted with MB7 and a little of carbon dosing. Some users have raised concerns about Siporax releasing silica, hence causing diatom blooms. I do have diatom blooms from time to time on the the system with the 2215, although I haven`t performed a test for Silica.
 

1ocean

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Water changes of course and I run a sulfur denitrator. My old tank I used a sulfur denitrator as well with great success, but I decided to try biopellets on my new tank before giving in and going back to the sulfur denitrator.
I agree,building a sulfur/ arogonite reactor now for my 300..
 
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