How to hit a higher ph?

Skyfish

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Hi all,
I am wondering why my pH is so low. I am hitting 7.7 at night and 7.8 at end of the day. I am starting to get worried as occasionally I dip below 7.7 some nights.

70 gal display, 40 gallon sump

Parameters
Alkalinity: 9.7 verified 2 ways
Calcium: 458 verified 1 way
Nitrate: <5 ppm
Phosphate: zeros on ppm Hanna

Misc: vodka dosing 5 ml a day, occasional prodibio biodigest addition
Brs 2 part with soda ash (about 20 ml of both a day)
Over-sized skimmer
Probably heavy bio load /a few tangs

Steps I have taken: added very large air stone disk (5 inches opened windows all day) managed to hit 7.85 but is dropping now that lights are off.

Does a fuge make that big of a difference?
 
BRS
Maxout

Rob.bucek

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That is low. What test kit are you using? I’m pretty surprised you have such a low PH even though you dose soda ash.
20ml is a very small amount for a daily dose in that size tank and pH boosts from that are typically pretty short lived.
 

Rob.bucek

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Hi all,
I am wondering why my pH is so low. I am hitting 7.7 at night and 7.8 at end of the day. I am starting to get worried as occasionally I dip below 7.7 some nights.

70 gal display, 40 gallon sump

Parameters
Alkalinity: 9.7 verified 2 ways
Calcium: 458 verified 1 way
Nitrate: <5 ppm
Phosphate: zeros on ppm Hanna

Misc: vodka dosing 5 ml a day, occasional prodibio biodigest addition
Brs 2 part with soda ash (about 20 ml of both a day)
Over-sized skimmer
Probably heavy bio load /a few tangs

Steps I have taken: added very large air stone disk (5 inches opened windows all day) managed to hit 7.85 but is dropping now that lights are off.

Does a fuge make that big of a difference?
How are you measuring pH? Usually good to have two methods available if possible. Probes can drift, colors hard to read etc... Low pH is almost entirely dependant on CO2 levels in the air that's being aerated into your tank. That air stone won't move the needle. If your CO2 levels in the room are high you're just driving more CO2 into the tank with more aeration anyhow. I highly recommend a CO2 meter for your house. I've struggled with these same issues and knowing that number some is super helpful feedback.
Try opening at least two windows in the house or room to get a cross breeze going for an entire 24 hours when you have some good weather to observe the impact. 5 inches isn't going to be as impactful as all the way open will be. It will take a while for pH to move as CO2 isn't exactly absorbed quickly.
Others mentioned outside air to your skimmer if possible, this will help and is a good idea. If you fall short of that some have luck with CO2 scrubbers butt that solution can get spendy and comes with maintenance headaches, but it's still an interesting exercise. How many liters per hour of air does your skimmer process? Just curious. I definitely know the surface agitation in my tank outcompetes my current skimmer in aeration, which in my case is not helpful for my pH lol.

Another option is continuous dosing of kalkwasser if your tank EVAP is high enough for replacement water and that will have a positive impact on your pH over dosing any 2 part and is far cheaper. It sounds like your alk demand is pretty low at this point though.

Just some thoughts....
 

blasterman

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Put some tank water in a glass and set it outside for a few hours.

If the pH in the glass is no higher than your tank during the day then your room is getting good circulation and you aren't choking on your own CO2.
 
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S

Skyfish

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How are you measuring pH? Usually good to have two methods available if possible. Probes can drift, colors hard to read etc... Low pH is almost entirely dependant on CO2 levels in the air that's being aerated into your tank. That air stone won't move the needle. If your CO2 levels in the room are high you're just driving more CO2 into the tank with more aeration anyhow. I highly recommend a CO2 meter for your house. I've struggled with these same issues and knowing that number some is super helpful feedback.
Try opening at least two windows in the house or room to get a cross breeze going for an entire 24 hours when you have some good weather to observe the impact. 5 inches isn't going to be as impactful as all the way open will be. It will take a while for pH to move as CO2 isn't exactly absorbed quickly.
Others mentioned outside air to your skimmer if possible, this will help and is a good idea. If you fall short of that some have luck with CO2 scrubbers butt that solution can get spendy and comes with maintenance headaches, but it's still an interesting exercise. How many liters per hour of air does your skimmer process? Just curious. I definitely know the surface agitation in my tank outcompetes my current skimmer in aeration, which in my case is not helpful for my pH lol.

Another option is continuous dosing of kalkwasser if your tank EVAP is high enough for replacement water and that will have a positive impact on your pH over dosing any 2 part and is far cheaper. It sounds like your alk demand is pretty low at this point though.

Just some thoughts....
So i have recalibrated the probe It adjusted up 0.09. so now its hovering around 7.87-7.97, which is better.

I have a bubble magus curve 9 (non-elite) says 900LPH. I will say i wonder if sump-tank turnover limits its potential in the DT (my tank only has one overflow with what seems like a smaller diameter then i would like).
 
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Skyfish

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Paston1

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I had this issue on my redsea and somewhat on my larger tank. What I’m currently running is 8.05 night vs 8.15 day.
1. co2 scrubber with return line back to skimmer. (Personally think this did the most)
2. reverse sump lighting (it was more consistent at night vs day, no more .25-.5 major swings)
3. Air stone at night when lights go out (helped dial it in to more consistent and corals were happy regardless of ph level)
4. Leave fans on in the room the tank is in or throughout the house. (Cant prove it but ph is higher lol)
5. Increased the surface tension. One of the return loc lines points up the other down. One powerhead higher for the surface break and top colum. One powerhead lower for the fresh water being sent to the bottom. (It’s beneficial but can’t measure)

I’ve tried:
baking soda (alk spike)
Baking the baking soda (alk spike)
Kalk (alk spike, corals died. If your ato is like mine and it dump a .5 gallon plus at a time, kalk can make a drastic alk swing)
Ran tube outside of sump from skimmer due to its a small tube and well the tank needs more than a few mm tube (it helped but enough to call it a game changer)
Ph buffer (corals died)

Final thoughts:
1. Remove the back side of your tank stand that is not visible to allow more natural air exchange between the tank and room. (Biggest difference between my Red Sea and larger tank) leave the stand doors open as well.
2. co2 scrubber and return it back to skimmer to extend life of the material. Will make a big circle, skimmer pulls air from scrubber and scrubber pulls from the skimmer cup where the air has been scrubbed already)
3. Add the bubbler that works in reverse light schedule of display (wooden air stone for micro bubbles like the size of your skimmer bubbles. I use 4, 1 in fuge, 2 in skimmer section, 1 as insurance in return section but not on)
4. Increase return pump speed for faster turn over rate of the whole tank.
5. fuge light opposite the display light.

Hope my experiences can help.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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  1. Sodium and potassium hydroxides (such as Aquavitro Balance) have a similar boost to pH per unit of alkalinity as limewater, but do not provide calcium.
Are these commonly used I had never heard of these before? Is the boost temporary?

All chemical boosts to pH are temporary, and all raise alkalinity.
 

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