it has been higherPerhaps the store water has been far higher in previous batches.
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it has been higherPerhaps the store water has been far higher in previous batches.
I'm surprised the LFS would charge money for water that's not fully filtered. (Not saying I doubt your word, just that the LFS should be providing better quality water...)it has been higher
From personal experience, if you're shorter than 6 ft tall, stick with the 75. My reef tank is a 90 gallon (48x18 and 24" tall) and between the tank and stand height (32 inches) it's difficult to do maintenance, target feed, etc in the lower third of the tank without getting wet armpits, lol.....depending if i keep my 75G, or find a 90G in good condition
I'm surprised the LFS would charge money for water that's not fully filtered. (Not saying I doubt your word, just that the LFS should be providing better quality water...)
I understand that setting up your own RODI is not something you can/want to do right now. Your other questions about adding things to the containers of freshwater are good ones, but I don't have the answers regarding how effective that might be, whether flow is necessary, etc.
It's worth trying, and then testing with a hobby grade test (not an ICP since that would be cost prohibitive). Run a few experiments and post the results; if nothing else, you'll be contributing new information to the hobby
As Randy pointed out, Si is often present in healthy systems and some dose it, so it's definitely worth finding out if you actually have diatoms.
I don't believe you said how old your tank is. Is it possible that whatever algae you are seeing is just part of the normal maturation process? Is it bothering your coral? I'm not suggesting you ignore something that you feel is a problem, but would hate to have you spend a lot of time and effort trying to fix something that's not broken, so to speak.
Good luck and keep us posted
Are you scraping regular film algae from the glass, or do you think that buildup is also diatoms? The reality is that the conditions that are good for coral growth are also good for algae growth... I have to clean my glass regularly as well.Thank you!
This tank is well over a year old. Coming along at around 1year 5months or so. I am leaning towards diatoms since it does not go away during lights out(although this could indeed just be another strain of dino's?), nor is it colored red/blue/green indicating cyano (my nutrients are actually in line at approx. 5-15 no3, and 0.04-0.09 po4. and i just put in a new bag of chemi pure blue, due to assuming my organics level was too high. and to help with lowering silicates) my glass does have to be scraped daily or the film buildup would make it unpleasant to look at. Corals are fine, still showing good steady growth and PE. but it is unsightly because my sand bed is now sowing patches of this. I do have 2 conches, a sand sifting star fish, and a handful of nassarius snails amongst other CUC in my 40B.
Are you scraping regular film algae from the glass, or do you think that buildup is also diatoms? The reality is that the conditions that are good for coral growth are also good for algae growth... I have to clean my glass regularly as well.
Your nitrate and phosphate levels look fine; a lot of the products I know of that reduce Si also reduce Phos, so be careful not to bottom out the phos...
One other idea, which may or may not be something to try until you figure out the Si, is to add live phyto to the tank. Depending on what algae you have and how much you have budgeted to spend on your tank, adding small amounts of phyto daily or several times a week can help overall biodiversity. Plus it feeds pods which are a great part of a cuc.
How big is your ATO reservoir? Could you add a small pump there for circulation (if you add silicate remover)?yeah my fear is adding to much silicate remover will bottom out my po4 and introduce dinos, which is where the idea of adding small bags into my ATO res, and the container jugs.
5G. this would be a good idea and what i was leaning towards. was going to experiment with just doing it without to see of any difference.How big is your ATO reservoir? Could you add a small pump there for circulation (if you add silicate remover)?
I've seen that on some GFO media it says that it removes silicates maybe give that a look. The one I specifically have seen it on is phosguardmy LFS has consistently sold me water with high silicates(as shown or proven by my ICP tests). how can i remove the silicate out of the water in order to continue using it in my ATO? i do use chemi pure blue in my sump but that’s just to help keep po4, organics, and no3 in check. the continuous increase in silicate is contributing to a diatom bloom in my tank which i’ve begun to address with increasing my CUC to deal specifically with diatoms
i do understand i could go to another vendor or even invest in a RODI system and deal with changing RO membranes or filters, but i live in an apartment and find this option to be too tedious.
i was thinking maybe using ROWAphos or chemi clean, or something specifically for silicate removal (suggestions?) in small amounts in mesh bags in each of the jugs of RODI water i have so the silicate is reduced or removed prior to putting it into my ATO container. is this feasible?
I've seen that on some GFO media it says that it removes silicates maybe give that a look. The one I specifically have seen it on is phosguard