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So what's their deal as far as lighting goes? Less light? Or, is it more of a light plus nutrients thing? I know that back when they were thriving in my tank, I was lazy with water changes, had a lot of algae, and my light was a diy light made with 3w cree leds.
Now that I have little algae and a hydra26HD, they are bleaching.
It's a tough call.So what's their deal as far as lighting goes? Less light? Or, is it more of a light plus nutrients thing? I know that back when they were thriving in my tank, I was lazy with water changes, had a lot of algae, and my light was a diy light made with 3w cree leds.
Now that I have little algae and a hydra26HD, they are bleaching.
Agree there... I don't have very high nutrients (5ppm NO3 and 0 PO4) so I keep my Alk pretty nominal (8.5 dKH) and the lights pretty low I suppose as well.It's a tough call.
Too much light for the available nutrients is what it sounds like for that specific coral.
hanna phosphate test has two types, the low and high range... use low range, it reads from 0.00 to 4.00, the high range reads 0-20 i think.Russ,
Which light are you using?
What I'm really getting at with this thread is how much wattage should I be working towards. My acros look happy, but montiporas are losing color. Not sure if it's too much light or too little nutrients. My nitrates are around 5ppm but phosphates,according to Hanna, are 0. Montiporas are fading out, even on the bottom and off to the side, while acros are coloring up and encrusting.
Matt
For 30 gallon shallow frag tank acro heavy I have 26hd hanging about 15" above water and white uv and violet maxing at 35 green and red at 25 and both blues maxing at 55 percent. This gives a wattage of about 45 when maxed if my memory serves. Just bought par meter and have not checked it yet but will post readings later.