Hydrogen Peroxide dips

[The Opinionated Reefer]

I saw BRS TV's Latest video which talked about dipping in 100% strength hydrogen peroxide not mixed with salt water so in effect it's a freshwater dip also. They claim it wipes out Algae and most pests and 90% of corals survive it. Has anyone done this? I am more concerned with killing dino's on frags TBH but they didn't say specifically if it works for those.

I am a bit too scared to do a 100% dip with no mixed in salt water but interested in anybody's experience with what strength to use to stop cross-contamination with dinos from one tank to another. And before anyone pipes up saying dino's is in every tank bla bla, I know this but not every tank has pest strains of dinos and I know from personal experience that you absolutely can spread dinos between tanks via cross-contamination, even to mature tanks that have never had a visible outbreak.

 

[brandon429]

here are two peroxide threads to read that are large enough, using other people's tanks in a yearslong pattern, that you can predict what will happen in your tank.

the weakest organism in reefing to perx is the lysmata shrimp, any trace conferred into it's water can and does routinely kill them, most other things are tolerate of doses of 3% perx diluted to 1 mil per ten gallons of tank water, which is this entire thread:

Dinoflagellates my experience......h2o2 reefing tool!!!!!

aaaaaaarrrrrrr just wanted to share my recent battle and how i won!!!!!!!!! "i wish i took pics but i didn't..:(" so about 3 weeks ago my tank broke out pretty bad i mean bad!!!!!! my coast to coast overflow would get plugged and almost overflow my tank..... so i did my research and found...

www.reef2reef.com

there are no fifty page work thread on full strength dips, that's new boundary pushing. if you start dipping stuff I'll be interested to know what survives and what doesn't


here is a huge thread using peroxide to fix tanks, and we don't dump into the water like that thread above.

Reef2Reef Pest algae challenge thread hydrogen peroxide

What you are really in for: Hand cleaning, hard work siphon and rasp-removing of accumulations and invasions outside the tank and doing massive water changes is 90% of this thread, peroxide is 10%. We almost never dose peroxide into the tank water, this is a you-work-physically-hard as catch-up...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

Thanks its only really the dipping I am interested in. not full tank treatments.



You will see he starts talking about it in the video at 34:05

 

[brandon429]

Many items will survive full strength dips

I bet any zoanthids will, my lps sometimes get 35% power peroxide dropped on them directly / I work with strong stuff/ and they dont bleach if I rinse it off pretty fast, so 3% isn't terrible like it's been made out to be. I expect many sps could be killed by it, lps not so much. I 100% expect coralline to bleach out on full contact dips. I expect all pods to be killed on full strength dips and yes I would expect dinos to be killed/ that thread above gets good dinos suppression only using 1:10 dilution into the whole tank.

 

[elysics]

I don't think you can even get your hands on 100% strength hydrogen peroxide easily.

From time to time I dip zoas in roughly 1% made from 9% and seawater, bubbles plenty enough.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

When they say 100% strength I think they mean 100% strength at 3% in the bottle. I can get 6% easily enough here in the UK. The main issue I have is most of my corals are sps and of those mainly acros. I don't keep softies at all. I may have to take a couple of frags from dinos infected tank as sacrificial lambs and just try it before putting them in the other setup.

 

[14 foot reef]

In this video, didn't they "Warn" people not to just jump on this band wagon ?
I thought they were saying this "could" be the future, but it really needs a lot more research.

Just going out of memory, I'll watch it again.

 

[brandon429]

agreed, I think the losses/tissue stresses will be to sps and each kind will have max tolerance times. I need to go rewatch the movie / surely they're on 3% as 6% isn't that common in the states but is easily ordered if someone wants. I use 35% even though it is very very dangerous to the eye, because it cuts through window film haze like a saw. I am not dumping mine into the water, I drain my small reef down empty and wipe out the inside walls with paper towel wet with it/saves all manner of scraping then I just refill.

 

[brandon429]

for sure full strength dips would need a warning, we have no pattern threads on the outcomes.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

In this video, didn't they "Warn" people not to just jump on this band wagon ?
I thought they were saying this "could" be the future, but it really needs a lot more research.

Just going out of memory, I'll watch it again.

Yeah, they did say that, but I am in a hurry. I need to shutdown one tank that has dinos and move all the corals to a new setup. But every time I try it I just spread the dinos which is not acceptable to me.

 

[GARRIGA]

When they say 100% strength I think they mean 100% strength at 3% in the bottle. I can get 6% easily enough here in the UK. The main issue I have is most of my corals are sps and of those mainly acros. I don't keep softies at all. I may have to take a couple of frags from dinos infected tank as sacrificial lambs and just try it before putting them in the other setup.

Would be interesting if coral farms would try this and perhaps already have. Since first hearing about hydrogen peroxide dips, I questioned why it needed to be diluted. Assumed this had been tested and confirmed a fail and just accepted it needed to be diluted. Especially since I don't see talk of using the 3% drug store source at full strength.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

I thought it had to be diluted with salt water due to it being fresh water. I tried dipping an acro in ro once and it started spewing color into the water and died before my eyes.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I've done it to zoa's, they survived, I wouldn't try it on anything else though.

 

[brandon429]

The top priority for your new tank is suppression, vector control will always be your weak spot as you're stocking up a new tank. It helps to pre dip for sure, dilution tbd, but you simply need real live rocks in your new tank from a non dino aquarium. Then fallow it out and watch for dinos upon setup

These rocks and their biota help suppress dinos

Don't use dry rocks in the new tank that's a dinos magnet all over again

Pay for, entice someone to sell you, purple coralline live rock from a non dinos tank. You're convincing someone with your cash to give you the functioning spinal cord to their reef tank, depending on cash access this could be an easy task or a tricky one

You need a UV sterilizer in the new tank above all. Above all. Make it ten times oversized for your gallonage, use the big wrench. Your #1 anti dinos device is a big uv. All else is secondary

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

The top priority for your new tank is suppression, vector control will always be your weak spot as you're stocking up a new tank. It helps to pre dip for sure, dilution tbd, but you simply need real live rocks in your new tank from a non dino aquarium. Then fallow it out and watch for dinos upon setup

These rocks and their biota help suppress dinos

Don't use dry rocks in the new tank that's a dinos magnet all over again

Pay for, entice someone to sell you, purple coralline live rock from a non dinos tank. You're convincing someone with your cash to give you the functioning spinal cord to their reef tank, depending on cash access this could be an easy task or a tricky one

You need a UV sterilizer in the new tank above all. Above all. Make it ten times oversized for your gallonage, use the big wrench. Your #1 anti dinos device is a big uv. All else is secondary

Yeah, i have all that apart from the 10x UV. I have Vecon 600 on the tank it's a reefer 350. I cycled the rock in a dark tank with some live rock for a couple of months I then kept the lights off for over a month in the new tank. I used ocean-direct live sand, I dosed pods, and I have coralline algae growing in the tank and covering some of the rock. I basically did everything I could think of to prevent dinos and as soon as I added some from frags from the othe tank I got a massive outbreak. I then dosed dinox which killed most of these corals. So I removed the remaining corals back to the other tank and did a full weeks blackout while dosing more dino x and that wiped out the dino's. It's been a month now and no sign of it coming back but I bet as soon as I add a frag from the old system it will return. I need a dip that wipes the corals 100% clean but not outright kills them.

 

[G Santana]

I have successfully dipped zoas at 100% HP for a 5 minute dip and all of them made it through with no problems, I have never tried any other coral and I won't. The HP will kill the GHA.

 

[damsels are not mean]

People do this often with zoas and GSP. If it were safe for SPS it would have been done more by now. It's not a secret technique so it's unlikely it works given the lack of positive experiences with stony corals.

 

[The Opinionated Reefer]

People do this often with zoas and GSP. If it were safe for SPS it would have been done more by now. It's not a secret technique so it's unlikely it works given the lack of positive experiences with stony corals.

Im about to find out. Going to try a bit cheap stylo at 100%. Won't try my rainbow tenius for a while lol

 

[cdnco2004]

I saw BRS TV's Latest video which talked about dipping in 100% strength hydrogen peroxide not mixed with salt water so in effect it's a freshwater dip also. They claim it wipes out Algae and most pests and 90% of corals survive it. Has anyone done this? I am more concerned with killing dino's on frags TBH but they didn't say specifically if it works for those.

I am a bit too scared to do a 100% dip with no mixed in salt water but interested in anybody's experience with what strength to use to stop cross-contamination with dinos from one tank to another. And before anyone pipes up saying dino's is in every tank bla bla, I know this but not every tank has pest strains of dinos and I know from personal experience that you absolutely can spread dinos between tanks via cross-contamination, even to mature tanks that have never had a visible outbreak.

From what I recall of the protocall its not 100% H2O2. Here is the protocall: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hydrogen-peroxide.1767/

Directions:

1. Prepare saltwater for the bath by having it set to the right temperature and heavily aerating it. You can accomplish the latter by running an airstone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water for at least 1 hour (longer is better). Alternatively, you can use Display Tank (DT) water or even from your Quarantine Tank (QT) provided no medications/chemicals are present in the water.

2. Add saltwater (using measuring cup) to the large glass bowl. Keep track of exactly how much water is added – either in cups or ml. (Do this beforehand if preparing saltwater for the bath right in the glass bowl.) Make sure your fish has enough water to swim around.

3. Using a syringe or pipette, add 3% Hydrogen Peroxide as per dosing instructions below. After dosing is complete, stir the water using a metal spoon. You can also use an airstone to provide oxygen during the bath and help mix the peroxide into the water.

Dosing instructions: To achieve ~ 150 ppm H2O2 add:

• 1.25 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 cup of saltwater.

OR

• 5 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 liter of saltwater.

OR

• 20 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 gallon of saltwater.

4. Now it’s time to add the fish. It’s okay to use a heater, but probably not necessary since the bath only lasts 30 minutes. Observe closely and remove the fish if showing signs of distress. The vast majority of fish will handle it just fine. After 30 minutes, remove the fish and transfer into a QT for further treatment: https://humble.fish/velvet/

 

[cdnco2004]

This is what I have been doing for all my fish in QT. Start QT with a H2O2 bath then in QT tank, do 100% WC in QT 4 days later and while doing WC put fish in another H2O2 bath. Once done with 100% WC and cleaning the QT tank with Vinegar then refill QT and put fish back into QT. Do this for 4 cycles and then fish is ready to go to DT.