Hydros Reviews

[fryman]

For UV control just plug your UV into an XP8 or WiFi power strip and set a schedule. It's that easy.

If you wanted to go more advanced with an auto feeder dependancy you could set the UV for always on in an advanced output, then give the UV an "off if on" dependancy. You would want to set the dependent device to your auto feeder and select the dependancyto "off if on". Then set a minimum off time of 1 hour, that way the UV will turn off for 1 hour everytime the auto feeder turns on. By using the advanced setting output you wouldn't even have to mess with the UV if you changed your feed schedule. It would just automatically shut the UV of for 1 hour dependent on when the auto feeder feeds.

The thing is I want multiple dependecies, not just one. I want UV power to depend on time, temperature, and pump power. I could set it to turn off when feeding, but the pump thing I couldn't get to work. Again, this may be just lack of familiarity.

I've used my Apex for a very long time and I trust it. I have a 2016 model with ethernet port and it has never failed. I have two Hydros X4s (I think? maybe I have an X10) and they periodically need a reset because they lose wifi. This also happens with the wifi power strips. The hydros wifi power strips are very economical but I don't trust them any farther than I can throw 'em. Definately recommend the XP8 instead.

My biggest hangup is wifi. I don't trust wifi for anything critical. And this is with a very reliable wifi setup (more reliable than power via PG&E). My wifi is on battery backup with redundent commercial grade mesh APs, router, and firewall. My wifi never goes down but ime the consumer grade wifi chips in these controllers lock up maybe 1 or 2 times a year on average, when run 24/7.

 

[dank.reefer]

I have both. Apex is better on the coding/software front. Hydros is good and maybe easier to get used to but it's programming and trending capabilities have a long way to go to match the Apex.

The multiple brain thing From Hydros appears to be a marketing gimmick to me. The one thing that never fails is my controller. What fails all the time? Probes, "energy bars", and wifi. It's like carrying a spare bike frame on a long road trip. If my bike frame breaks things really went off the rails and I likely have bigger problems. What I really need is spare tires, brake pads, and bike chains.

Both systems get the main things right. Temp, orp, & pH monitoring, and outlet controls work well. Hydros depends more on wifi and Neptune makes it easier to hard-wire everything. I trust copper hard-wired connections much, much (much) more.

Hydros multiplexed controls are not a gimmick they are running on a system called CAN buss which is a globally accepted standard communication interface used in automobiles, airplanes, industrial equipment, etc. The fact that your Apex base unit hasn't failed is just luck IMO. I see people posting on my local forum regularly looking for a replacement. To have any controls relying on a single brain to run a network of modules is just flat out dumb. IMO the only 2 reason's Apex doesn't operate on CAN bus is to keep production cost down and ensure that their customers are fully locked into their ecosystem both things are simply aimed at maximizing profits and not system reliability. The other thing about having a true multiplexed controller area network is that you don't need to have a parent brain to run things. If you buy an EB832 it is just a paper weight without the base unit, An XP8 that cost aboit the same can be used all by itself. If you want to use a Neptune DOS again you will need to have a base unit, if I want to run a Minnow I can do so without any other components and the module itself costs less. If I just want to have a couple of sensors then cool just get one module (XS) and its done, if you I just want to run a stand alone doser system just get one module (XD) some 12v dosing pumps and its done. There are benefits to having multiplexed controllers beyond basic system stability and redundancy. The parent base unit is just a way to lock you into their system no matter what you have to make that $400-$500 initial purchase to play. Hydros let's the user grow into the system at their own pace with some base units such as the minnow starting at less than $300. To provide the same level of features as the blenny which costs around $500 you would be spending over $1500 to get 2 DOS a 1 link box a base unit and whatever special sense box you would need for whatever sensors you may need. Yeah no thanks I will stick with the multiplexed gimmick. I assure you there is nothing that Apex can do outside of mediocre auto testing that the Hydros can't.

All of my Hydros controllers are hardwired together other than 2 WiFi power strips, so I'm not sure what you are talking about there? Hydros modules do not communicate with ome another through WiFi. The only thing that Hydros relies on WiFi for is user interface and a few low cost optional accessories that also have "hardwired" counterparts if you would prefer that level of reliability.

 

[dank.reefer]

The thing is I want multiple dependecies, not just one. I want UV power to depend on time, temperature, and pump power. I could set it to turn off when feeding, but the pump thing I couldn't get to work. Again, this may be just lack of familiarity.

I've used my Apex for a very long time and I trust it. I have a 2016 model with ethernet port and it has never failed. I have two Hydros X4s (I think? maybe I have an X10) and they periodically need a reset because they lose wifi. This also happens with the wifi power strips. The hydros wifi power strips are very economical but I don't trust them any farther than I can throw 'em. Definately recommend the XP8 instead.

My biggest hangup is wifi. I don't trust wifi for anything critical. And this is with a very reliable wifi setup (more reliable than power via PG&E). My wifi is on battery backup with redundent commercial grade mesh APs, router, and firewall. My wifi never goes down but ime the consumer grade wifi chips in these controllers lock up maybe 1 or 2 times a year on average, when run 24/7.

If you want multiple dependencies then set them up with a generic combiner with multiple inputs and virtual outputs. I assure you their is very little that your Apex can do that a Hydros cannot. It is just a matter of learning how the system works.

 

[dank.reefer]

Also I just saw your hang up with WiFi. There is nothing in Hydros that is controlled through Wi-Fi other than the power strips. The system is hardwired as you say. The only thing that wifi is used for is user interface and a couple of wifi accessories. No different than the apex wifi interface.

 

[fryman]

Also I just saw your hang up with WiFi. There is nothing in Hydros that is controlled through Wi-Fi other than the power strips. The system is hardwired as you say. The only thing that wifi is used for is user interface and a couple of wifi accessories. No different than the apex wifi interface.

What Hydros device has an ethernet port? If they added an ethernet port it's news to me. I thought the only way to access Hydros remotely is via wifi.

I know you can wire different devices together with a proprietary connector, but when I'm away I want to be able to monitor everything, and ethernet is 100x more reliable than wifi, in my experience.

 

[n2585722]

The thing is I want multiple dependecies, not just one. I want UV power to depend on time, temperature, and pump power. I could set it to turn off when feeding, but the pump thing I couldn't get to work. Again, this may be just lack of familiarity.

I've used my Apex for a very long time and I trust it. I have a 2016 model with ethernet port and it has never failed. I have two Hydros X4s (I think? maybe I have an X10) and they periodically need a reset because they lose wifi. This also happens with the wifi power strips. The hydros wifi power strips are very economical but I don't trust them any farther than I can throw 'em. Definately recommend the XP8 instead.

My biggest hangup is wifi. I don't trust wifi for anything critical. And this is with a very reliable wifi setup (more reliable than power via PG&E). My wifi is on battery backup with redundent commercial grade mesh APs, router, and firewall. My wifi never goes down but ime the consumer grade wifi chips in these controllers lock up maybe 1 or 2 times a year on average, when run 24/7.

Here is a sample of a output that uses temp to control and has a schedule also. Then the depends on is setup to turn off the output id the return pump output is off.

 

[dank.reefer]

The only thing that is WiFi in any of this system that controls 3 separate tanks is 2 WiFi Power Strips. Anyone who thinks that Hydros relies on WiFi for anything outside of a few optional accessories and user interface is sadly misinformed. If your WiFi shuts down the Hydros will operate just as it was programed to do until the WiFi is restored. The only downside is if you are away from the system you won't be able to check in or change any settings until the WiFi is restored. The WiFi in my home is very stable and my Hydros has its own dedicated router. I have never had a time when I was away that I couldn't access my system. An ethernet connection has the same weak link and possibly even more depending on how your network is set up and that link is your router.

 

[n2585722]

The thing is I want multiple dependecies, not just one. I want UV power to depend on time, temperature, and pump power. I could set it to turn off when feeding, but the pump thing I couldn't get to work. Again, this may be just lack of familiarity.

I've used my Apex for a very long time and I trust it. I have a 2016 model with ethernet port and it has never failed. I have two Hydros X4s (I think? maybe I have an X10) and they periodically need a reset because they lose wifi. This also happens with the wifi power strips. The hydros wifi power strips are very economical but I don't trust them any farther than I can throw 'em. Definately recommend the XP8 instead.

My biggest hangup is wifi. I don't trust wifi for anything critical. And this is with a very reliable wifi setup (more reliable than power via PG&E). My wifi is on battery backup with redundent commercial grade mesh APs, router, and firewall. My wifi never goes down but ime the consumer grade wifi chips in these controllers lock up maybe 1 or 2 times a year on average, when run 24/7.

This one also has 2 inputs one is temp and the other is a flow meter so it is set to be on if it is within the scheduled time and the temp is below the set points and the flow is above the set point.

 

[fryman]

Hydros multiplexed controls are not a gimmick they are running on a system called CAN buss which is a globally accepted standard communication interface used in automobiles, airplanes, industrial equipment, etc. The fact that your Apex base unit hasn't failed is just luck IMO. I see people posting on my local forum regularly looking for a replacement. To have any controls relying on a single brain to run a network of modules is just flat out dumb. IMO the only 2 reason's Apex doesn't operate on CAN bus is to keep production cost down and ensure that their customers are fully locked into their ecosystem both things are simply aimed at maximizing profits and not system reliability. The other thing about having a true multiplexed controller area network is that you don't need to have a parent brain to run things. If you buy an EB832 it is just a paper weight without the base unit, An XP8 that cost aboit the same can be used all by itself. If you want to use a Neptune DOS again you will need to have a base unit, if I want to run a Minnow I can do so without any other components and the module itself costs less. If I just want to have a couple of sensors then cool just get one module (XS) and its done, if you I just want to run a stand alone doser system just get one module (XD) some 12v dosing pumps and its done. There are benefits to having multiplexed controllers beyond basic system stability and redundancy. The parent base unit is just a way to lock you into their system no matter what you have to make that $400-$500 initial purchase to play. Hydros let's the user grow into the system at their own pace with some base units such as the minnow starting at less than $300. To provide the same level of features as the blenny which costs around $500 you would be spending over $1500 to get 2 DOS a 1 link box a base unit and whatever special sense box you would need for whatever sensors you may need. Yeah no thanks I will stick with the multiplexed gimmick. I assure you there is nothing that Apex can do outside of mediocre auto testing that the Hydros can't.

All of my Hydros controllers are hardwired together other than 2 WiFi power strips, so I'm not sure what you are talking about there? Hydros modules do not communicate with ome another through WiFi. The only thing that Hydros relies on WiFi for is user interface and a few low cost optional accessories that also have "hardwired" counterparts if you would prefer that level of reliability.

I hear what you're saying, I guess my experience has just been different from yours.

My Apex 2016 model on my main display has been the most reliable controller I've ever used. I bought 2 Hydros controllers a few years back to run another tank and phyto reactor setup, and they are both less reliable than my Apex. They have locked up multiple times. Usually a hard reset fixes things but it hasn't given me confidence to make a switch. On a side note, I had an Apex Jr. a few years ago that failed so maybe I have just been lucky with the older Apex. But I checked and the Hydros doesn't have ethernet. It may not be important to you, but it's a factor for me. I have lost the ability to monitor my Hydros remotely, multiple times and this never happens with my Apex

I get your point about the ecosystem thing. Neptune locks you in with propriatery equipment and features that don't work (or maybe work but with less features) outside the Apex environment. Examples are the DOS, and COR return pumps. But it looks like CoralVue is going down the same path with their dosers, feeders, and other accessories for Hydros. So...maybe looks like 6 of one half a dozen of the other.

I think people may get a little hung up on whatever brand they picked. I realize I could be prone to this as well. But I've used a handful of different controllers, so I'm just reporting my experience. YMMV

 

[areefer01]

They all have warts. Doesn't matter if it is Neptune, GHL, Red Sea, Hydros, or other/diy. Just depends on what you want to accomplish. Short term and long. The challenge for the hobbyist is sifting through the forum noise and personal bias to get a clearer picture of the truth. I do not believe that is possible as we are human.

I guess from my perspective is that you already have an Apex so if I was in your shoes I would work backwards. I would ask myself what I want to do with the current system that I can't. And if by can't does that mean it isn't possible within the ecosystem or is it my implementation that is the limitation. And by implementation I mean version, modules, and/or budget.

Once we know that, or you in this case, we can look at the other systems and see if they can fill those missing items. Look at GHL, Hydros, Red Sea, and diy. Repeat the process. You may find that what you have fits the bill. If not you will know what to look for elsewhere.

Then revisit social media and get feedback on the product(s) in question. Still will have to deal with personal bias and fandom but may be slighter easier.

Good luck.

 

[WaltK]

I'm considering switching from Apex to Hydros. I'd love to hear from both sides what you love or hate about your Hydros or Apex controller for your reef tank? Thanks!

I have had my Hydros system since I got my new about 166 total gal dream tank September of last year. I have the X-10, 3 XP-8, the Launch Controller, two Soles for water changes (AWC), several of their water level sensors and their triple sensor.as well as their DC pump for the ATO. Being new to all of these processes it took a while to grasp but it was well worth the time, they work great and are easy to use. I’d say go for it…Happy to answer any questions if you have specific ones.

Walt

 

[dank.reefer]

What Hydros device has an ethernet port? If they added an ethernet port it's news to me. I thought the only way to access Hydros remotely is via wifi.

I know you can wire different devices together with a proprietary connector, but when I'm away I want to be able to monitor everything, and ethernet is 100x more reliable than wifi, in my experience.

Hydros does not use a proprietary connector. They use industrial watertight fittings known as GX12 fittings. These are the same connections used in aviation electronics and industrial applications. Their cables are made from readily available parts just the same as ethernet cables. If you want to buy their pre-made cable that is fine if you are handy and want to make your own that option is their as well.

Your ethernet is relying on the same components as your Wi-Fi and they are vulnerableto failure just the same.

And has additional weak points as well. For instance if this top cable is disconnected or loose from my ethernet switch my whole network goes down. Thanks Brinks security guy for causing that lesson to occur.

The biggest thing that makes the Hydros WiFi interface super stable(WiFi is only an interface) is a dedicated router for the Hydros like this one. The only thing on that router is my Hydros.

I have had zero issues accessing my system in San Diego over the last 3 years. Not from Denver, Costa Rica, Cheyenne, Dallas, Cozumel, Cabo, or any other place I have been. If you have issues with WiFi in your home then those issues are with your network not the Hydros.

I understand the preference for Ethernet I loke it better for high speed data and security as well, but in this instance I have found it to be unnecessary. I have many times considered switching to Apex but I just can't do the whole dedicated base unit deal. I work on networks all of the time so this type of thing comes naturally to me. My personal belief is that convincing customers that you need an ethernet port is also a gimmick and a false security blanket. If any portion of your network fails ethernet is just as susceptible to failure as Wi-Fi and the devices connected to the network are usually not the issue but the network itself is.