I cant figure out whats wrong

[FishNoob323]

Think Ive been in the hobby just long enough to be dangerous. 90G Tank has been up and running for about a year and a half. 3 months ago moved and everything just went south from there.

Any cleaner I put in the tank dies within about a week. Snails big and small and emerald crabs all kicked the bucket and (as weird as it is to complain about) no algea has formed since I moved. Snails barely move, cant seem to hold themselves to the glass. I figured there must be a quality issue with the water so I bought an RODI unit and did a 50G water change. I also have a protein skimmer pulling really dark skim out. But still cant keep a snail alive. Also loosing fish here and there. Had a big damsel die without any warning and a Heniochus. Both were fine, swimming and eating, and then just floating the next day. No signs of parasites or disease on them or any indicators that another fish did them in.

Ive tested for nitrates nitrates ammonia and salinity and everything is normal. Even the LFS said the water seems perfect, except for ammonia being a little high ( guessing from the recent deaths). Need some ideas what else could be killing everything.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Now when you say you bought an RO/DI unit, what water were you using before? Tap?

 

[Adele]

and everything is normal

Do you have any numbers regarding 'normal' I used to think 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates was a good/normal thing....not so much.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Now when you say you bought an RO/DI unit, what water were you using before? Tap?

This could be the culprit^.

 

[FishNoob323]

@Crabs Mcjones yes, it was tap water with Prime added. I have many regrets.

@Adele not quite 0 but nitrates and nitrites where close. Ammonia was the next level above what the test shows as being optimal. Sorry, as soon as I get home ill check again and give you real numbers.

 

[Crabs McJones]

@Crabs Mcjones yes, it was tap water with Prime added. I have many regrets.

@Adele not quite 0 but nitrates and nitrites where close. Ammonia was the next level above what the test shows as being optimal. Sorry, as soon as I get home ill check again and give you real numbers.

If it was tap water i'd look at how much copper you have in the system. Inverts cannot handle copper in any amount. On top of any other heavy metals that may be in the tap water. Prime only helps as a de-chlorinator. You can remove copper by doing a large water change and using a Poly Filter or Cuprisorb. But at this point your rock may be contaminated to as copper tends to soak into rock and then leach out slowly over time.

 

[FishNoob323]

If it was tap water i'd look at how much copper you have in the system. Inverts cannot handle copper in any amount. On top of any other heavy metals that may be in the tap water. Prime only helps as a de-chlorinator. You can remove copper by doing a large water change and using a Poly Filter or Cuprisorb. But at this point your rock may be contaminated to as copper tends to soak into rock and then leach out slowly over time.

Anything i can do to avoid losing all of that live rock?

 

[NewGoby]

Anything i can do to avoid losing all of that live rock?

I'd start filtering over active carbon, to start off with & continue doing so for a while (I've run activated carbon since day 1 & the tank is now roughly 5-6months old & I've never stopped.)
It'll remove many impurities & also help remove heavy metals

 

[FishNoob323]

I'd start filtering over active carbon, to start off with & continue doing so for a while (I've run activated carbon since day 1 & the tank is now roughly 5-6months old & I've never stopped.)
It'll remove many impurities & also help remove heavy metals

I'll do that, and also throw some Cuprisorb in there for good measure.

Appreciate all the help everyone!

 

[40B Knasty]

Anything i can do to avoid losing all of that live rock?

First you want to test it. See what your level of copper is at. A poly fiber pad will turn greenish blue if it is absorbing copper to it.
Here is a thread that may help IF this is the issue.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-remove-copper-from-dt.326316/

 

[FishNoob323]

Update;
So ive tested the copper twice now over two days, both times it came out perfectly 0. Also put a polyfilter that changes colors in there but so far its still white after a day. Other tests..

Salinity 1.022
Temp 81
Ammonia 0.25ppm
NO2 0
NO3 0
PH 7.5-8
Kh 40
GH 180+

Temp used to be lower but I upgraded lights this weekend. I know I need to figure out how to bring it back down but dont think that's what started the issue.
Heres a picture of the last snail. This is about all they do, at most stick thier foot to the glass but don't move.
Anemone is also have a hard time the last few days but guessing thats the new lights or hopefully its just expelling something.

 

[Rcpilot]

pH looks low to me.

 

[FishNoob323]

pH looks low to me.

What should I be aiming for? Without any coral I've always stuck to 7.5-8.5

 

[WVNed]

So when you moved did you change/add anything to the system?

also there have been a few mentions over time on R2R of people with black substrates leaching metals with mysterious deaths like yours.

 

[FishNoob323]

So when you moved did you change/add anything to the system?

also there have been a few mentions over time on R2R of people with black substrates leaching metals with mysterious deaths like yours.

Just the sand. Bought the same brand I originally used but it was black. For the first few weeks (maybe 3-4) everyone seemed perfectly happy though.

 

[40B Knasty]

Just the sand. Bought the same brand I originally used but it was black. For the first few weeks (maybe 3-4) everyone seemed perfectly happy though.

Snails will die at a higher temp. Also if your tank is to new. Meaning they maybe scouring the glass but there's no food for them. I had this trouble for awhile when I started out. Turbo snails are the worst culprit for temperature death. Can't remember what kind.
Some people use nori to feed their snails waiting for algae to bloom. So for now. Wait till the glass shows signs and you have to use Magfloat. Build it up slow. Like 2-4 astria. Then if you need more. Get 2 trochus. Trochus snails when they shift from one pain of the glass to the other on the corners. You will hear a clicking sound from their shell hitting the glass. So don't panic if you hear the tapping.

 

[ZaneTer]

Salinity 1.022 - LOW
Temp 81 - OK
Ammonia 0.25ppm - HIGH
NO2 0 - OK
NO3 0 - LOW
PH 7.5-8 - OK
Kh 40 - RIDICULOUSLY HIGH IF TRUE. COULD EASILY KILL EVERYTHING
GH 180+

 

[NewGoby]

yeah if the ammonia is correct & the KH is correct too, then both of those will be dangerous, although in my (short) saltwater hobby tiem I've not seen a reading of 40 KH, neither have I seen that in my freshwater years.. hmm

I'd say double check the KH & get something to lower your ammonia,

what's your nitrates & nitrites at?