I don't think this is ICH

[twinreef]

no idea what this is. I have been out the hobby for a while.

 

[Nano_Man]

#fishmedic

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

no idea what this is. I have been out the hobby for a while.

That is a fairly advanced case of ich. Is it just the powder blue tang showing the symptoms, or do other fish as well?

The treatment you choose depends on how many fish you have, what species they are, what invertebrates are present, etc.

Neither of the effective treatments can be done in a tank with invertebrates present. Do you have another tank available?

Options are:
Coppersafe at 2.25 ppm for 30 days
or
hyposalinity at 1.009 for 30 days.

Then, the fish need to be kept out of this tank for 60 days so that the ich parasite will die out.

 

[twinreef]

Thank you for the reply. The crazy part is that I did quarantine and used copper power. It's a new tank. But were I messed up is that I introduced a shippment of snails and did not quarantine them, straight into the tank. I have a 57 watt UV Sterilizer on the tank also... I have 9 fishes. The other 8 have it but very mild.

P.s the size of the tank is about 168 gallons total.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thank you for the reply. The crazy part is that I did quarantine and used copper power. It's a new tank. But were I messed up is that I introduced a shippment of snails and did not quarantine them, straight into the tank. I have a 57 watt UV Sterilizer on the tank also... I have 9 fishes. The other 8 have it but very mild.

P.s the size of the tank is about 168 gallons total.

Yes - anything "wet" can be a vector for disease if it came from a tank with an active parasitic infection.

The sterilizer isn't going to stop this infection, it is too far advanced.

 

[winxp_man]

Thank you for the reply. The crazy part is that I did quarantine and used copper power. It's a new tank. But were I messed up is that I introduced a shippment of snails and did not quarantine them, straight into the tank. I have a 57 watt UV Sterilizer on the tank also... I have 9 fishes. The other 8 have it but very mild.

P.s the size of the tank is about 168 gallons total.

The sucky part is the power blue will be at risk of dying. He has as @Jay Hemdal stated a severe ich infestation. So copper is a must and asap being it takes 2-4 days to start working. No need to do a ramp up.

As for the other fish, ich will keep increasing in numbers until it over takes a fish. The name of the game with ich is multiply as fast as possible and reinfect asap.

When all fish have a very mild case yes some form of “management is possibly possible. But the protocol has to be followed to the T. And at what point would one say the fish are out of that risk factor? Jay has a write up about managment. But your case I would say is a need for QT. And 60 days fallow.

I have a 150 tank I used for observation and coral QT. I put some new cuc in there. Had to move a hybrid powder into the tank because, being he was the medium powder, he wanted to about kill my powder blue. Took him out my 300 ended up calming down and issue fixed. Three days later the hybrid powder had ich in it. So if someone asks me about the importance of QT and running things fallow, I would say that is my number one priority! All my DT’s as of now are disease free and nothing to be seen.

I just don’t want to play games any longer with disease don’t have the time or energy to deal with infected fish. And running large scale QT’s for all fish.

I would get flow moving in all directions if possible in the DT. This will keep the encyst ich stage Tomonts possibly moving. And temp above 77*. At 77 is where the tomonts get moving to turn into the theront stage (feeding/infection stage).


Finland word, I got ich from ogo algae I got from a LFS a while back. Yea this disgusting disease will come in on many wet surfaces if the tank you get product from is infected. Hope this helps, cheers.

 

[twinreef]

well I was able to catch him and put in my 20 gallon qt.. I'm starting to lower the salinity to 11ppt. I dont think he is going to make it. he keeps sticking his head out the water..

p.s so i looked it up and he is bobbing.. When Ich parasites attack a fish's gills, it causes severe respiratory distress, forcing them to "pipe" at the surface for oxygen. according to google

 

[tigre44]

I just went through this with my blue. I lost all fish but one 6 line wrasse. I had added two urchins I’m assuming that where the disease came in. With all the coral I have catching fish was neatly impossible until they were probably too far gone to cure. I’m going to wait until sept to add any more fish and install a uv unit soon hopefully it will help also no more blues just too risky

 

[winxp_man]

well I was able to catch him and put in my 20 gallon qt.. I'm starting to lower the salinity to 11ppt. I dont think he is going to make it. he keeps sticking his head out the water..

p.s so i looked it up and he is bobbing.. When Ich parasites attack a fish's gills, it causes severe respiratory distress, forcing them to "pipe" at the surface for oxygen. according to google

To give the fish temp relief FW dip. But if it’s too weak it will not make it. And hypo you want to drop over 2-3 days. It’s why I say copper at 2.25ppm and put the fish directly in. By the time hypo starts to work the fish might not make it. Copper gets the disease to subside little by little the minute the fish in the tank with copper. It would be my choice.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

well I was able to catch him and put in my 20 gallon qt.. I'm starting to lower the salinity to 11ppt. I dont think he is going to make it. he keeps sticking his head out the water..

p.s so i looked it up and he is bobbing.. When Ich parasites attack a fish's gills, it causes severe respiratory distress, forcing them to "pipe" at the surface for oxygen. according to google

Google misses the mark a lot. Marine ich is not primarily a gill disease, it doesn’t directly cause piping. Amyloodinium does cause that, but so does any overt stress event. Keep the lights dim to help reduce stress.

Here is my article on hypo:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/

 

[twinreef]

Thank you guys really appreciate the info...But sadly he didn't make it.. Hopefully my other fishes survive. I'm not going to make any changes right now because I'm on vacation. As soon as I return try and catch the of the fish and leave them in the qt with for the recommend time. Then transfer them t a clean tank and my main tank without fish for 90 days..

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thank you guys really appreciate the info...But sadly he didn't make it.. Hopefully my other fishes survive. I'm not going to make any changes right now because I'm on vacation. As soon as I return try and catch the of the fish and leave them in the qt with for the recommend time. Then transfer them t a clean tank and my main tank without fish for 90 days..

You don’t need to fallow a tank for 90 days. 60 is fine.