I Run the Most thriving SPS Tank on 0 P and 0 N

sixty_reefer

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Said no one ever....

I’ve noticed that most of the threads lately on here are all related to none of the above be present in the tank. I could go scientific on you but that’s not the goal here. 0 nutrients and 0 phosphate is BAD and it will cause most of the issues in your tank. Let’s not forget that there’s a big difference between running a low nutrient tank and a 0 nutrient tank.

Is always hard to repeat yourself so let’s make this a informative thread on running 0 nutrient tanks, share your opinions and information.
 

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Agreed.

I would go on to say that thriving tanks with very low measured nutrients actually have a good bit of nutrients going in. They are just quickly consumed by a mass of Corals.

I just feel like running low nutrients is walking a tightrope with a smaller window for error. I’d rather have Nitrates between 5 and 15, or 5-10.
A little algae never killed anyone.

That being said I’ve seen gorgeous tanks that run very low nutrients. I will say that the tanks with best coloration typically have higher nutrients.
 

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Said no one ever....

I’ve noticed that most of the threads lately on here are all related to none of the above be present in the tank. I could go scientific on you but that’s not the goal here. 0 nutrients and 0 phosphate is BAD and it will cause most of the issues in your tank. Let’s not forget that there’s a big difference between running a low nutrient tank and a 0 nutrient tank.

Is always hard to repeat yourself so let’s make this a informative thread on running 0 nutrient tanks, share your opinions and information.
I noticed this awhile back. It kind of prompted me to post a thread asking for everyone to post honest parameters. I believe a lot of times, people are embarrassed maybe, to have nitrates and phosphates. So they don’t even test - or do - and say zero. If they very well are at zero, they are not seeing the big picture. I’ve killed lots of coral because of low nutrients. I feed my tank heavily, skim dry and filter light. I have a light bio load however. But that’s my problem to deal with.
 
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sixty_reefer

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Agreed.

I would go on to say that thriving tanks with very low measured nutrients actually have a good bit of nutrients going in. They are just quickly consumed by a mass of Corals.

I just feel like running low nutrients is walking a tightrope with a smaller window for error. I’d rather have Nitrates between 5 and 15, or 5-10.
A little algae never killed anyone.

That being said I’ve seen gorgeous tanks that run very low nutrients. I will say that the tanks with best coloration typically have higher nutrients.

Agree and definitely nothing wrong to do if you got the skills, this thread is mainly to show newcomers that having N and P is actually a good thing in reefing and if any of the above is at 0 then there is a need to act on it before the real issues start.

Most new reefers come from the freshwater backgrounds we’re having pure water is sometimes needed for some species of shrimps. But in reefing pure water is definitely not a good thing to have. Personally I wouldn’t advice to any new reefer to have they’re N below 5 and P below 0.03 for the first few years wile the tank is maturing and reefing skills gained. Once you gain more experience then you can adventure on the limbo of ultra low nutrient. But never the 0 nutrients route as I feel that there’s no place for it for success in this hobby
 
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I noticed this awhile back. It kind of prompted me to post a thread asking for everyone to post honest parameters. I believe a lot of times, people are embarrassed maybe, to have nitrates and phosphates. So they don’t even test - or do - and say zero. If they very well are at zero, they are not seeing the big picture. I’ve killed lots of coral because of low nutrients. I feed my tank heavily, skim dry and filter light. I have a light bio load however. But that’s my problem to deal with.

I’ve made that mistake myself wend I’ve first started and somehow felt embarrassed back then to say that I had N and P in my tank, until one day wend I thought my parameters were “spot on” and hit 0. Since that day all went down hill, am sure if I was more consistent about N and P my first tank would of been more smooth.

Parameters at 0 is just the perfect environment for dinoflagellates and killing coral by starvation.
 

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I’ve made that mistake myself wend I’ve first started and somehow felt embarrassed back then to say that I had N and P in my tank, until one day wend I thought my parameters were “spot on” and hit 0. Since that day all went down hill, am sure if I was more consistent about N and P my first tank would of been more smooth.

Parameters at 0 is just the perfect environment for dinoflagellates and killing coral by starvation.
What I’ve learned from experience is to not chase parameters. Sometimes your PO4 is what you think is high and you load up on GFO. Then throw in carbon and Nopox and everything at once. Then your numbers get thrown off so fast that your inhabitants start bailing. If your nitrates are low or high for example, but your tank looks healthy, bring them down slowly instead of setting your rig on fire trying to fix it NOW.
 

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I am having this problem now and trying to correct it. My refugium is working too well and i have no detectable NO3 PO4 on my test kits. The corals were happy around 5ppm no3, and dont look good at 0
That’s your refugium doing its job. Do you pull out macro? You can break off big chunks and toss.
 

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That’s your refugium doing its job. Do you pull out macro? You can break off big chunks and toss.
Yeah, I pulled all but a small fist sized bundle. I cut down the lighting to 7 hours, and even removed the skimmer. The coral seems to be looking better this week, so i am interested to see where my nutrients are on Sunday Tankday.
 

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1565269739069.jpg

1565270108155.jpg
 
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What I’ve learned from experience is to not chase parameters. Sometimes your PO4 is what you think is high and you load up on GFO. Then throw in carbon and Nopox and everything at once. Then your numbers get thrown off so fast that your inhabitants start bailing. If your nitrates are low or high for example, but your tank looks healthy, bring them down slowly instead of setting your rig on fire trying to fix it NOW.

Definitely and if someone puts some time in reading former tank of the month threads, probably would learn that there is no perfect levels, some like it high some like it low, but in all the tanks they only have one thing in common. They all have it [emoji6]
 

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Man, if it was as simple as chasing inorganic N & P numbers, it would be great. Unfortunately it is more complicated. Yes N & P are required. But, levels of inorganic N & P that are detectable by hobby grade test kits may not be as important as we think. I stopped chasing those numbers. Usually, I don't have a clue what those levels are. However, when I do test, often they read 0 or very close to it. My tank not quite mature yet. I know the N&P levels in my tank are higher than the tests report. They are just quickly bound, used, or exported.

Personally, I think inappropriate levels of inorganic N & P can cause problems in a new tank and less so in a mature system.
 

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Great thread. I started keeping corals (with mixed results) when 0’s were the goal as keeping N/P down was a challenge. Now thanks to refined filtration methods that are so effective that now some people are dosing N/P.

Unfortunately a lot of the literature has not kept up and reefers are still aiming for 0’s. This kind of thread is important.
 

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I’ve noticed that most of the threads lately on here are all related to none of the above be present in the tank.

I'm pretty much finding the opposite, that 3-4 years ago people were talking ULNS a lot, but the trend has most definitely switched away from that since then. ULNS systems like Zeo or Aquaforest certainly do work, but seem to require a bit more diligence and have less wiggle room when something goes awry. I also agree with above that it's way more complicated than simply N&P and I believe that organic carbon likely has a ton to do with it, and when/if we are able to test that more easily and accurately, some significant discoveries will be made in the hobby.
 

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Said no one ever....

I’ve noticed that most of the threads lately on here are all related to none of the above be present in the tank. I could go scientific on you but that’s not the goal here. 0 nutrients and 0 phosphate is BAD and it will cause most of the issues in your tank. Let’s not forget that there’s a big difference between running a low nutrient tank and a 0 nutrient tank.

Is always hard to repeat yourself so let’s make this a informative thread on running 0 nutrient tanks, share your opinions and information.
I agree with your take on nutrients, but disagree that "most threads" promote zero nutrients. I'm around a good bit on here, and I think most reefers here would agree with you that 0 nutrient tanks aren't the goal (although that was the common idea a few years back). Today it seems that position has shifted as reefers recognize that corals do need some nutrients. There are a few ULNS tanks around and if the reefer knows what they're doing, they CAN be successful with very specific regimens, but it's definitely more common to keep reefs with low but measurable nutrient levels.
 
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sixty_reefer

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I agree with your take on nutrients, but disagree that "most threads" promote zero nutrients. I'm around a good bit on here, and I think most reefers here would agree with you that 0 nutrient tanks aren't the goal (although that was the common idea a few years back). Today it seems that position has shifted as reefers recognize that corals do need some nutrients. There are a few ULNS tanks around and if the reefer knows what they're doing, they CAN be successful with very specific regimens, but it's definitely more common to keep reefs with low but measurable nutrient levels.

I haven’t worded properly at the beginning maybe, am referring to most threads on the advice and algae id section, I see day in and day out some one suffering from dinoflagellates with no need, and as you carry on helping you find that most of them actually aim for 0 nutrient. The hope for this thread is to bring some awareness to this particular issue we all know that the right amount of nutrients will never be agreed on, and why should? Every tank has different needs. But am pretty sure that we all can agree that we need at list traceable nutrient.
 
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sixty_reefer

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I'm pretty much finding the opposite, that 3-4 years ago people were talking ULNS a lot, but the trend has most definitely switched away from that since then. ULNS systems like Zeo or Aquaforest certainly do work, but seem to require a bit more diligence and have less wiggle room when something goes awry. I also agree with above that it's way more complicated than simply N&P and I believe that organic carbon likely has a ton to do with it, and when/if we are able to test that more easily and accurately, some significant discoveries will be made in the hobby.

It can really get complicated, that’s for sure [emoji23] but my goal was to keep it simple for new reefers. Zeo and aquaforest are advanced methods and the reefers implementing them will have enough skills to handle the needs of a ULNS like a well oiled machine still they have detectable nutrient. Wich is the point am trying bring up.
 

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

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