I took out to much macro algae and having a HUGE nitrate spike.

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SauceyReef

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Without a confirmation that nitrite is zero, or almost zero, most nitrate tests used will give false high nitrate reading. Seems odd that removing macro, which uses ammonia directly, would give an instant nitrate high. This could be accounted for by a nitrite reading (probably not harmful) which is then multiplied by a massive amount (sometimes x100) in the nitrate test.
Thank you for the information. How would it be possible for nitrite to be showing up a year and a half in with a tank?
 

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Something here isn't passing the sniff test.

Removing macro algae would not release 50 ppm nitrates into your water.

I'm going to guess there's some tester or testing error going on here.

Following up with massive and frequent water changes very well May bottom out your nutrients since you're not likely OFL in the first place
 
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Something here isn't passing the sniff test.

Removing macro algae would not release 50 ppm nitrates into your water.

I'm going to guess there's some tester or testing error going on here.

Following up with massive and frequent water changes very well May bottom out your nutrients since you're not likely OFL in the first place
Yes I agree I’m just trying to get to the bottom of this. Glad to see you’re chiming in. What is OFL? I agree though that’s why I don’t want to do a 90% water changes. Heavy lps system so a nutrient bottom out could be just as bad. I would prefer a gradual decline down. Maybe my old tester was off and these are the correct readings? Or this one is off.. going to test rodi water and my other tank when I’m home.
 

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Yes I agree I’m just trying to get to the bottom of this. Glad to see you’re chiming in. What is OFL? I agree though that’s why I don’t want to do a 90% water changes. Heavy lps system so a nutrient bottom out could be just as bad. I would prefer a gradual decline down. Maybe my old tester was off and these are the correct readings? Or this one is off.. going to test rodi water and my other tank when I’m home.
OFL is over factory limit. 75 on the Hanna hr =OFL. Highest reading available.

Hanna are colorometers that are zeroed with seawater at 35. Testing non-salt will give you a flawed reading from the git go.

The Very first thing I'd be doing, is verifying the readings against other known good tests.

If it comes back that you do confirm a 75 ppm, That is not the end of the world that requires immediate and brash action. I ran ~80-160+ for a year before actively reducing it.

It is arguably too high and can be brought down through water changes and an extended photoperiod On your fuge. My light runs 24/7.
 
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OFL is over factory limit. 75 on the Hanna hr =OFL. Highest reading available.

Hanna are colorometers that are zeroed with seawater at 35. Testing non-salt will give you a flawed reading from the git go.

The Very first thing I'd be doing, is verifying the readings against other known good tests.

If it comes back that you do confirm a 75 ppm, That is not the end of the world that requires immediate and brash action. I ran ~80-160+ for a year before actively reducing it.

It is arguably too high and can be brought down through water changes and an extended photoperiod On your fuge. My light runs 24/7.
I will try to get my tests reconfirmed with the LFS. I think if the Mangrove system checks at 75ppm we are likely looking at a flawed hanna checker. There is no way that tank has 75+ppm when I never feed it and it has no fish in it. Good point not to worry though. Everything looks like it normally does. It could be ive had these higher nitrate readings longer than I would like to think. For now I am doing 30% water changes every few days, buying some filter floss, and have macro algae fuge light going all night instead of over a few hours. After confirming my test kit is correct I may try running the fuge light 24/7 and see if that starts bringing it down.
 
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Update:

The Fluval keeps testing at 75ppm even with a couple 30% water changes the past week and upping my fuge lights all night. I tested my mangrove tank today just to make sure my Hanna was reading right and as expected it tested at 0ppm so looks like the tester is okay.

@Lost in the Sauce I think I am going to try 24 fuge light on and see how this works / effects the nutrient readings.
 

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Update:

The Fluval keeps testing at 75ppm even with a couple 30% water changes the past week and upping my fuge lights all night. I tested my mangrove tank today just to make sure my Hanna was reading right and as expected it tested at 0ppm so looks like the tester is okay.

@Lost in the Sauce I think I am going to try 24 fuge light on and see how this works / effects the nutrient readings.
Welcome to the Cool aid club.

I would probably continue with twice a week water changes, just to get it readable on the Hanna checker. If you have no idea where they are, You have no ability to confirm if what you are trying is working.

An option to try to figure out where about your sitting is pull out one cup of tank water, and mix it well with one cup of new salt water. Take a reading. This should half your readable nitrates for the test. If you get a reading under 75, double that number and that's about where you are sitting. If you are still reading above 75, Make another mixture with one part tank water. Three parts new seawater. This reading should be one quarter of your actual nitrates.
 
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Welcome to the Cool aid club.

I would probably continue with twice a week water changes, just to get it readable on the Hanna checker. If you have no idea where they are, You have no ability to confirm if what you are trying is working.

An option to try to figure out where about your sitting is pull out one cup of tank water, and mix it well with one cup of new salt water. Take a reading. This should half your readable nitrates for the test. If you get a reading under 75, double that number and that's about where you are sitting. If you are still reading above 75, Make another mixture with one part tank water. Three parts new seawater. This reading should be one quarter of your actual nitrates.
That is a really smart move. I wanted to go to my LFS to get a second test to see exactly what my PPM was at but they also use a high range nitrate hanna so we would not be able to go over 75. I will give your experiment a try.

Just bought some filter floss online also so I will add that to the back chambers, try to spread out my macro algae to two chambers now for more surface area, increased FUGE lights timing, and doing 30% water changes twice a weak. If this does not take a dent in a week or two I will probably try another mechanical filtration method.
 

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@Lost in the Sauce looks like with a 50% mix of tank water and 50% of fresh saltwater I am at 47ppm. So is 100ppm a good estimate from all tank water?
Yeah but I'd I'd record it as 94. Now you have Somewhere to work from, and a way to track it down as you being it down over the course of a few weeks.
 
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Yeah but I'd I'd record it as 94. Now you have Somewhere to work from, and a way to track it down as you being it down over the course of a few weeks.
Greatly appreciate the help as always. That is a very useful trick and will come in handy until I get this down under 75 and in case it happens again. Thank you
 
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I am digging through my old supplies to find carbon for my other tank. I found some bio balls, sponges, and I think fluval filter rings. Anyone think any of these are worth it at all? If I remember correctly I have heard some controversial opinions about each.
 

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