Ich in newly cycled tank!! Can I just treat the entire tank since I have no corals yet?

rsaylor3

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I do not have any coral in the tank. I only have a few crabs and snails that I can remove. Since the tank is only 2 months old and fish only basically, can I just treat the entire tank vs setting up a QT tank and treating them there? Almost positive it's ich. My yellow tank has just specs, and none together in mass. He seems to be just fine, and is eating and acting completely normal. The Yellow Eye Kole is the one that is harder to see it on, but he was in high flow and acting different yesterday and today he is on the bottom of the tank up against the rock. He is breathing faster as well. He has not ate since yesterday!

I do plan to have corals in the future, and I have also ordered a UV sterilizer to run going forward. The tank is a Red Sea Reefer, xl300, so 65 gallon display and 15 gallon sump. I used caribsea dry rock and reef sand.

I read, and read and new I should have QT'd everything, but in the urge to see the fish in the new tank, I did it after only doing the two part dip! Won't do this again, but need to decide what I'm going to do right now.

Thanks guys, looking forward to your replies and getting on this today!
 
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IshyFishy

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I am in the same boat, would love to know the answers from one of the experts on here
 
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rsaylor3

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Yeah, the cycling went so well! And now this! I'm having trouble working as I keep walking over to check on the fish:) already afraid I'm too late for the kole tang. All the other fish, including the yellow are acting perfectly normal and besides the yellow the others don't have any spots.
 

IshyFishy

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What if i removed my rock and put them in a bucket of saltwater. Then I could use copper meds to heal my fish? I have no sand and I can take my inverts out. Would that work?
 
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BrandonS

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What if i removed my rock and put them in a bucket of saltwater. Then I could use copper meds to heal my fish? I have no sand and I can take my inverts out. Would that work?
you would need something for biological filtration. But at that point it becomes a qt tank. same rules apply. Maybe a sponge filter or get an ammonia badge and water change through any build up. But with no sand or rock it's now a qt tank.
 
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rsaylor3

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Does Hyposalinity work as well as copper or the other medication I see folks talking about? If so, how slowly should I bring the salinity down? And how long do I have to keep it there to know that the ich is gone?
 

IshyFishy

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you would need something for biological filtration. But at that point it becomes a qt tank. same rules apply. Maybe a sponge filter or get an ammonia badge and water change through any build up. But with no sand or rock it's now a qt tank.

I am new to his hobby obviously, so if I make my tank a QT tank, and I have some biological filtration (seachem matrix in my sump) and if i can kill the ICH...do i have to do something with the copper that is in the water before i put my rocks and inverts back?
 

BrandonS

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I am new to his hobby obviously, so if I make my tank a QT tank, and I have some biological filtration (seachem matrix in my sump) and if i can kill the ICH...do i have to do something with the copper that is in the water before i put my rocks and inverts back?
yes, you would want to water change it out or use a media (something like chemi pure) to absorb it.
 

dimik

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Does Hyposalinity work as well as copper or the other medication I see folks talking about? If so, how slowly should I bring the salinity down? And how long do I have to keep it there to know that the ich is gone?

If you wan't to treat them in your DT without contaminating / removing anything your best and only option is Hyposalinity. Hyposalinity WILL cure ich & flukes if done right.

-Take 4-5 days to bring down salinity to 1.009.
-Once at 1.009 Keep fish in hyposalinity for 30 days
-Then increase salinity back up to normal levels over the course 4-5 days.

It sounds hard and scary but it's actually very easy. You just need to be very careful that salinity stays at 1.009 AT ALL TIMES DURING TREATMENT. Otherwise you have to start over. Best to have an ATO during this. Also, need to be carefull and probably get a PH buffer.

Here is more https://humble.fish/hyposalinity/

Also, here is an online calculator that can tell you how to precisely decrease & increase salinity giving certain parameters. E.X. how many gallons you do per water change & the salinity of that new addition or removal of water. https://www.saltyzoo.com/SaltyCalcs/SalinityAdjust.php


Either way you need to treat with copper for 30 days anyway. The time table is the same for treatment but with hyposalinity you don't have to worry about chemicals in your tank during or even after
 
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rsaylor3

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ok, this seems like the best route then! I have a ATO, so that will help to keep things where they are and I normally don't have an issue with changes to my salinity.

I'll just recalibrate my salinity meter now before I start and get the RODI system turned on and making more water!

Do I need to remove my clean up crew? (couple snails, emerald crab, hermit and fire shrimp) And should I still add the UV sterilizer this weekend when it comes in? Guessing that will help the process as well.
 

vetteguy53081

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I would not as traces of copper will remain and affect coral when the time comes. It will be in the rocks, silicone, etc
 
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rsaylor3

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Does this look like a good plan? 2 water changes per day over 4 days?


Tank Sal. (BEFORE)GallonsSalinityTank Sal. (AFTER)
This plan calls for 8 water changes​
11.026 sg / 35 ppt6.91 sg / 0 ppt1.024 sg / 32 ppt
21.024 sg / 32 ppt7.51 sg / 0 ppt1.022 sg / 29 ppt
31.022 sg / 29 ppt8.31 sg / 0 ppt1.02 sg / 26 ppt
41.02 sg / 26 ppt9.21 sg / 0 ppt1.017 sg / 23 ppt
51.017 sg / 23 ppt10.41 sg / 0 ppt1.015 sg / 20 ppt
61.015 sg / 20 ppt121 sg / 0 ppt1.013 sg / 17 ppt
71.013 sg / 17 ppt14.11 sg / 0 ppt1.011 sg / 14 ppt
81.011 sg / 14 ppt11.41 sg / 0 ppt1.009 sg / 12 ppt
 
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rsaylor3

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Also, I do not use a refractor, I have a Hanna HI98319. If calibrated, am I good to use it and shoot for the 12 ppt=1.009sg?
 
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dimik

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Does this look like a good plan? 2 water changes per day over 4 days?


Tank Sal. (BEFORE)GallonsSalinityTank Sal. (AFTER)
This plan calls for 8 water changes​
11.026 sg / 35 ppt6.91 sg / 0 ppt1.024 sg / 32 ppt
21.024 sg / 32 ppt7.51 sg / 0 ppt1.022 sg / 29 ppt
31.022 sg / 29 ppt8.31 sg / 0 ppt1.02 sg / 26 ppt
41.02 sg / 26 ppt9.21 sg / 0 ppt1.017 sg / 23 ppt
51.017 sg / 23 ppt10.41 sg / 0 ppt1.015 sg / 20 ppt
61.015 sg / 20 ppt121 sg / 0 ppt1.013 sg / 17 ppt
71.013 sg / 17 ppt14.11 sg / 0 ppt1.011 sg / 14 ppt
81.011 sg / 14 ppt11.41 sg / 0 ppt1.009 sg / 12 ppt
Looks good to me. I would remove inverts because they may be sensitive to lower salinity & die. Also, before going the hypo route are you 100% sure that it's ich and not velvet? Hypo won't treat velvet, it will only suppress it.
 
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rsaylor3

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I think, from what I read the ich looks more like sparkles on them, or tiny bubbles spread out. Velvet tends to be more sections of it compressed together.

IMG_20200924_124916.jpg IMG_20200924_124934.jpg IMG_20200924_124952.jpg IMG_20200924_125001.jpg
 
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rsaylor3

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that one picture makes it look like he has lost color on the back side, but he has not. It's just the camera and lights not working correctly.
 

dimik

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that one picture makes it look like he has lost color on the back side, but he has not. It's just the camera and lights not working correctly.
I think, from what I read the ich looks more like sparkles on them, or tiny bubbles spread out. Velvet tends to be more sections of it compressed together.

IMG_20200924_124916.jpg IMG_20200924_124934.jpg IMG_20200924_124952.jpg IMG_20200924_125001.jpg
I'll let someone else chime in here. I'm not all that confident in my diagnosis but I do know how to treat everything b.c I QT anything incoming to my DT. So I've treated for everything (even if it's not there)
 

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