Ich management not working?

[John A!10]

That does happen. You can give it gentle bursts with a turkey baster and if sand, will fall off

I’m going to try that.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Take every fish out of your main tank and put them in a QT tank for at least eight weeks. The QT tank should have no rock, sand, etc. Just fish and a bare bottom. Dose copper in the QT tank at about half the recommended amount. Do 1/3 water changes daily or 1/2 water changes every other day. Do NOT use anything from your QT tank in your main tank... ever. Anything that touches your QT tank such as a net is now a QT tank only item.

At the end of eight weeks ich will be dead in your main tank and your fish will be ich free. I suggest you don't put anything else in your tank from a setup with fish unless it goes through at least a four week QT and that includes coral.

If the fish are removed from the saltwater aquarium into a quarantine tank, any Cryptocaryon parasites remaining in the aquarium without fish will die after a period of time, up to 4 weeks, depending on temperature. If you choose not to use copper, you can run a combination of freshwater and formalin treatments administered by means of dips (short duration exposure) or baths (prolonged treatment) over a period of time in a QT is recommended as a treatment in place of copper.

 

[John A!10]

If the fish are removed from the saltwater aquarium into a quarantine tank, any Cryptocaryon parasites remaining in the aquarium without fish will die after a period of time, up to 4 weeks, depending on temperature. If you choose not to use copper, you can run a combination of freshwater and formalin treatments administered by means of dips (short duration exposure) or baths (prolonged treatment) over a period of time in a QT is recommended as a treatment in place of copper.

I have ich Ned already from freshwater. What temp would the tank need to be to get rid of it in 4 weeks? I have corals hermits and snails.

 

[John A!10]

Used a turkey baster but nothing came off, so it’s probably ich. I know that a fallow period will get rid of ich, but as I experienced in the past this is more of a temporary treatment before I get ich again from some type of coral or invert which I can’t qt, it has just led to failure in the past.

 

[[Cameron]]

I currently have COVID and I’m in quarantine. I will keep this as a last resort. Will 10g be enough for two clowns and a firefish?

If you want to get rid of ich, this is the only way I know. You basically have to starve the ich by letting a couple cycles of ich hatch in your main tank with no food source (fish). If you want to manage ich in your main tank, that is an entirely different (and typically expensive) proposition often involving UV, managing strict water quality, medicated direct feedings, etc.

10g for three small fish is fine. Just keep up daily or every two day water changes because there is nothing in the QT tank that will consume the ammonia.

Used a turkey baster but nothing came off, so it’s probably ich. I know that a fallow period will get rid of ich, but as I experienced in the past this is more of a temporary treatment before I get ich again from some type of coral or invert which I can’t qt, it has just led to failure in the past.

Ich eggs last around four weeks and live in sand and on rocks. This is why you should buy corals only from known non-fish systems or quarantine them for at least four weeks before moving them into the main display... unless you are in the screw it crowd and just manage diseases and such in your main tank. I lived in that world for nearly a decade... I suggest not going down that road.

 

[John A!10]

If you want to get rid of ich, this is the only way I know. You basically have to starve the ich by letting a couple cycles of ich hatch in your main tank with no food source (fish). If you want to manage ich in your main tank, that is an entirely different (and typically expensive) proposition often involving UV, managing strict water quality, medicated direct feedings, etc.

10g for three small fish is fine. Just keep up daily or every two day water changes because there is nothing in the QT tank that will consume the ammonia.


Ich eggs last around four weeks and live in sand and on rocks. This is why you should buy corals only from known non-fish systems or quarantine them for at least four weeks before moving them into the main display... unless you are in the screw it crowd and just manage diseases and such in your main tank. I lived in that world for nearly a decade... I suggest not going down that road.

Is their a more cost effective way to the qt? 4 weeks of water changes evryday? That’s a lot of salt. I will probably set up a tote tomorrow. Is their a way to do less water changes, or have the tank cycled when in done with treating it. Also what temp would you suggest to have my display tank to get ich out in 4 weeks?

 

[HuduVudu]

I will make a diy mesh top, so you have any link or info on different types of bacteria, or micro fauna?

This will help:

: : : : Indo-Pacific Sea Farms : : : :

Indo-Pacific Sea Farms produces captive-bred marine life for healthier reef aquariums: invertebrates, detritivores, live sand, snail grazers, amphipods, beneficial worms, macro algae, plankton, corals, coral food and beneficial bacteria.

www.ipsf.com

You can also get live rock from Live Rock and Reef:

Saltwater Live Rock | Florida Live Rock at Live Rock n Reef

The Florida aquaculture live rock at Live Rock n Reef is so full of life that you never know what you will find next. Our customers love their live rock, come and see why.

www.liverocknreef.com

 

[John A!10]

Ok so I will be using a 10gallon tote tomorrow to setup a qt, and will be doing 3 - 5 gallon water changes every other day for 4 weeks. Can I use some rock from my dt to cycle the tank and help keep the ammonia down to do less water changes?

 

[John A!10]

I also have this product that I have never used. Will this help if it unable to do a water change one day?

Kent Marine Ammonia Detox Ammonia, Chloramine & Chlorine Neutralizer | Petco

8 oz. Neutralizes ammonia, chlorine and chloramines. Instantly "ages" tap water, allowing immediate addition of water to aquarium. Also use directly in freshwater or marine aquariums to detoxify ammonia, nitrite and nitrate

www.petco.com

 

[[Cameron]]

Is their a more cost effective way to the qt? 4 weeks of water changes evryday? That’s a lot of salt. I will probably set up a tote tomorrow. Is their a way to do less water changes, or have the tank cycled when in done with treating it. Also what temp would you suggest to have my display tank to get ich out in 4 weeks?

On a 10g tank, a 5g water change every other day is roughly 15 water changes which is roughly 75 gallons. Roughly $20 using Instant Ocean salt. You don't need expensive salt for a four week QT.

If you don't want the hassle, you can buy from a quality dealer that simply doesn't run fish in with their corals. You will pay a bit more typically but you won't have to spend hours dealing with fish parasites or setting up a QT. Having gone down these roads, buying pre-QT fish and corals is the way to go. It isn't that much more expensive especially for coral.

 

[John A!10]

I hat temps should I set my tank to to get the ich to die in 4 weeks?

 

[Spieg]

Can I use some rock from my dt to cycle the tank and help keep the ammonia down to do less water changes?

Yes, but you won't be able to use the rock in the DT again. As an alternative you could place some bio cubes in your DT sump for a few days and then put them in a HOB filter on the QT. The down side to either of these is that the rocks/cubes will also absorb copper which will make it more difficult to maintain therapeutic levels of copper in QT (but is doable if you check/dose copper every day or so).

 

[Brew12]

I have added fish with ich and velvet into my system and haven't lost a fish to either. If your fish are showing signs of them, you need to figure out what is causing the stress and fix that condition.
Food that contains probiotics can also be useful, such as LRS's line of frozen food.
And fallow periods are very unlikely to work. Almost every system will have an anaerobic area within it. Ich will go dormant in an anaerobic environment and not hatch. This can allow it to stay viable in a fallow system for months or longer. If that anaerobic area gets oxygenated, such as by disturbing the aquascape, the ich will hatch and start the cycle over again.

 

[John A!10]

Yes, but you won't be able to use the rock in the DT again. As an alternative you could place some bio cubes in your DT sump for a few days and then put them in a HOB filter on the QT. The down side to either of these is that the rocks/cubes will also absorb copper which will make it more difficult to maintain therapeutic levels of copper in QT (but is doable if you check/dose copper every day or so).

I already have bio balls in my dt which I will remove some and add to my HOB filter of my qt tank.

 

[John A!10]

I have added fish with ich and velvet into my system and haven't lost a fish to either. If your fish are showing signs of them, you need to figure out what is causing the stress and fix that condition.
Food that contains probiotics can also be useful, such as LRS's line of frozen food.
And fallow periods are very unlikely to work. Almost every system will have an anaerobic area within it. Ich will go dormant in an anaerobic environment and not hatch. This can allow it to stay viable in a fallow system for months or longer. If that anaerobic area gets oxygenated, such as by disturbing the aquascape, the ich will hatch and start the cycle over again.

Anyone else have any input on this? Won’t my fish show signs of ich when its first introduced into the tank? Shouldn’t it take a bit longer before they can fight it off and then if it comes back it is because of a stress factor?

 

[John A!10]

I also made a mistake I saw the first signs of ich one week ago not two.

 

[Brew12]

Anyone else have any input on this? Won’t my fish show signs of ich when its first introduced into the tank? Shouldn’t it take a bit longer before they can fight it off and then if it comes back it is because of a stress factor?

Its possible if they hadn't previously had it. Especially if you treated them with something like Metroplex as part of your QT treatments. The biologics in a fishes gut are an essential part of a fishes immune system. They can be destroyed by a strong metro treatment which makes gaining immunity harder.
And there is nothing wrong with pulling a fish from a system and treating it if needed. Exposing fish to crypto and treating it 3 times is how scientists have achieved immunity in a fish to study it. Just don't expect to have an ich free system.

 

[John A!10]

Its possible if they hadn't previously had it. Especially if you treated them with something like Metroplex as part of your QT treatments. The biologics in a fishes gut are an essential part of a fishes immune system. They can be destroyed by a strong metro treatment which makes gaining immunity harder.
And there is nothing wrong with pulling a fish from a system and treating it if needed. Exposing fish to crypto and treating it 3 times is how scientists have achieved immunity in a fish to study it. Just don't expect to have an ich free system.

I’ll se how my fish are doing tomorrow and I’ll go from their. I think I’ll set up a qt and do a 4 week fallow period.

 

[HuduVudu]

If that anaerobic area gets oxygenated, such as by disturbing the aquascape, the ich will hatch and start the cycle over again.

Ok, I haven't heard this. I am not the ich police, I am just curious, is there an article to read.

 

[HuduVudu]

Anyone else have any input on this? Won’t my fish show signs of ich when its first introduced into the tank? Shouldn’t it take a bit longer before they can fight it off and then if it comes back it is because of a stress factor?

My fish almost always show signs of ich on introduction. Stress is ALWAYS the cause. Your fishes immune system will fight it off easily if they are not stressed. The key is dealing with stress.

One other thing, I don't think that that is ich on your fish from the picture. I forget what it is called maybe @Jay Hemdal can ID it.