Icp test came back need some advice

mjuarez7

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Hey guys just got my Ati Basic Seawater Icp back today, I’ve never done one. I just beat LCA Dino’s by dosing waterglass to outcompete with a diatom bloom. Silicates are through the roof which I guess is normal since I dosed it, it’s been about 3 weeks since I stop dosing waterglass. My phosphates and strontium are pretty high, I added 1/2 cup of rowaphos in a media bag in a high flow area in sump is this a good starting point? As far as strontium being high is it because I’m dosing All For Reef? Planning on dosing brightwell iodium too. Also they said my salinity was 31 PSU which they say is critically low, I’ve always calibrated with RODI to Zero so I went to grab some brightwell calibration solution and tested with the calibrated refractometer and my display is sitting at 35ppt so idk what up with that lol. Any tips would be appreciated thanks guys Happy reefing. Also added an Og bounce before I knew these results and it melted overnight is there something here specifically that would’ve caused that?
20260724_210937_3D48B81B-BEF2-4814-85B7-775D2599299B.png


20260724_210937_BCEA71D3-05B9-476F-9B33-BD9216C1A949.png
 
You cannot trust those off the shelf salinity calibration solutions. Least brain damage way to calibrate is to use a Tropic Marine Hydrometer.

I personally use a VeeGee refractometer and calibrate with RODI and the last 3 ICPs I have been pretty much dead on in terms of salinity. Here is the last one:

IMG_7902.png
 
What Ive heard from is that if your salinity is not around the right salinity its not a fair comparison on the critical low. Since ions are not going to be in the correct levels to begin with.

I would not raise salinity more than 1.5 - ppt in one water change tho
 
Phosphate has to be measured with photometry in order to be accurate, so ATI's ICP phosphate levels will always be above actually dissolved phosphate.
That's also why Oceamo measures it using photometry even though they have access to ICP as well.

A ULR Phosphate checker from Hanna Instruments together with their calibration solution will help a lot to get accurate results.

Regarding salinity I prefer a high quality hydrometer or digital tester, but if you want to use a refractometer you might want to take a look at Randy's DIY calibration standards: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/reef-aquarium-salinity-diy-calibration-standards.956/
 
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Not sure if the silicon reading is accurate, but if true is quite high. Are you using tap water?

Do you have any apparent problem with pest diatoms being excessive?
 
Not sure if the silicon reading is accurate, but if true is quite high. Are you using tap water?

Do you have any apparent problem with pest diatoms being excessive?
I was dosing waterglass to raise silicates, I’m using 0 tds RODI. Was trying to beat Dino’s with a diatom bloom and it worked but now trying to lower the silicates levels
 
You cannot trust those off the shelf salinity calibration solutions. Least brain damage way to calibrate is to use a Tropic Marine Hydrometer.

I personally use a VeeGee refractometer and calibrate with RODI and the last 3 ICPs I have been pretty much dead on in terms of salinity. Here is the last one:

IMG_7902.png
Do you think I’m fine purchasing the TM hydrometer and calibrating my refractometer for now? I plan on getting a veegee down the road maybe, still doing some research
 
Only thing is I don’t have any diatoms, Dino’s went away but I never had a full blown diatom bloom

What did you dose for silicate?
 
Do you think I’m fine purchasing the TM hydrometer and calibrating my refractometer for now? I plan on getting a veegee down the road maybe, still doing some research
Yes that would work. You can also mix your own calibration solution but the TM Hydrometer is not too expensive.
 
20260725_102856_21A01D45-8233-41FC-AA60-4C96E50F432E.png

This is what I used

Ah, so that should be fine. I’ve used it too. Diatoms must be limited by something other than the silicate in your tank.
 
You cannot trust those off the shelf salinity calibration solutions. Least brain damage way to calibrate is to use a Tropic Marine Hydrometer.

I personally use a VeeGee refractometer and calibrate with RODI and the last 3 ICPs I have been pretty much dead on in terms of salinity. Here is the last one:

IMG_7902.png
@slingfox

Hey sling fox, FYI I purchased a VGXT3 based on your recommendation while mine is always calibrated to zero it is off by .0015 compared to my Tropic Marin hydrometer. So if I want salinity of 1.026 (per hydrometer) I need to get my refractometer to read 1.0275 when making salt. This is the second one I got from them so I’m just living with the difference. My ICP was right on with my hydrometer reading.
 
@slingfox

Hey sling fox, FYI I purchased a VGXT3 based on your recommendation while mine is always calibrated to zero it is off by .0015 compared to my Tropic Marin hydrometer. So if I want salinity of 1.026 (per hydrometer) I need to get my refractometer to read 1.0275 when making salt. This is the second one I got from them so I’m just living with the difference. My ICP was right on with my hydrometer reading.

A better way is to calibrate the refractometer to read 1.0264 when in 35 ppt water, or to calibrate it to match a second device that you trust is accurate. Then you can always read the correct number.
 
A better way is to calibrate the refractometer to read 1.0264 when in 35 ppt water, or to calibrate it to match a second device that you trust is accurate. Then you can always read the correct number.
@larrysaltisfun The is what I would do if you have the hydrometer on hand. That said .0015 is 0.1% of 1.026 which is almost certainly within the error bar for any consumer grade instrument to measure salinity.
 

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