if I use live rock will I still have to cycle my tank

fishywishy

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They say you’re supposed to wait 6 months or something like that to get corals, so that way you rock and filter get established. So I’m wondering if I just buy a whole bunch of live rock that’s already been cycled will I still have to wait?
 

brandon429

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@LiverockRocks

'A brand-new tank does not instantly cycle when adding live rock. It will cycle faster'


that isn't true/have you measured a skip cycle on a seneye yet or just with api/red sea/ non digital kits
 
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brandon429

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to be clear, since there are so many sources of rock called live

see that vat of rocks in a pet store? that's pure skip cycle rock.

you can move it to another state, put it in a reef, and it doesn't mini cycle or dieoff. that's the kind that surely does move tank to tank, home to home, pet store to home, and does not mini cycle.

skip cycle.jpg



I would not claim that ocean sourced rock will skip cycle every time.

petco rock will, or common lfs rock cured down to coralline like that above.
 
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Lost in the Sauce

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I agree but I’m just curious Have you ever put live rock with hitchhikers and everything in a fresh tank that hasn’t been cycled yet?
No, if your ready the previous pages, I said how I cured out the hitchhikers as well as posting pictures of them.

There's a lot of nasties I don't want in my tank.
 
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brandon429

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there is a thread tracking pure skip cycle instant ready rocks, no bottle bac used, no testing other than seneye wanted. we base success on outcomes carrying life, not if API says .25 or .5 nh4 like it does for most running reefs.
 
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brandon429

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why does this matter, why would anyone care to differentiate true skip cycling from delayed cycling setups?

-to run marine aquarium conventions where a million dollars in transferred life forms don't die
-to run tank transfer threads, where we move $20K sps reefs and never lose life, you have to command skip cycling to run those threads remotely
-to be able to build quick setup hospital tanks on demand for various reasons

-to avoid the arbitrary wait periods found in old cycling science that views nearly everything as a mini cycle, once we found out cured live rock transfers fine always, without a mini cycle, we were free to let go of cycling fears and direct all entrants to instead study fish disease controls, which is where the real risk exists.

We want a section of tank work that is free from bottle bac purchase needs, free from the need to get digital nh3 tracking gear to know what ammonia is doing, and that subsection is termed above skip cycle live rocks (cured at a pet store, not sourced from the ocean and mailed)

all reefs I have ever uploaded to the web were pet store cured skip cycle rocks. this eliminates the need for ammonia and nitrite testing...that's a big deal. nobody has ever been free of that before.
 
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Soren

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to be clear, since there are so many sources of rock called live

see that vat of rocks in a pet store? that's pure skip cycle rock.

you can move it to another state, put it in a reef, and it doesn't mini cycle or dieoff. that's the kind that surely does move tank to tank, home to home, pet store to home, and does not mini cycle.

skip cycle.jpg



I would not claim that ocean sourced rock will skip cycle every time.

petco rock will, or common lfs rock cured down to coralline like that above.
The absolutism of your statements is not correct. Under certain circumstances, live rock will certainly cause parameter measures that indicate what some call "mini cycle" and will have die-off. To state that it will not "ever" is just not correct.

What actually matters is a balance within the whole ecosystem, whatever particular organisms thrive in each niche of that system. If the amount of bacteria established on the live rock is enough to handle the ammonia load of the other occupants in a given system, there should be no observable initial "cycle", but a system can still be overloaded if the amount of rock (and, therefore, established bacteria) is too little for the amount of ammonia-producing life in the system.

In my case, even with a fishless 90g system with a 40g Brute can for a sump, the introduction of 75lbs live rock and 25lbs rinsed live sand caused a significant ammonia spike from the initial die-off due to a one-day delay in the shipment that should have been overnight. Since there were still significant bacteria populations, the ammonia was reduced within a few days back to equilibrium, but some would have measured this spike as a "mini cycle", though I personally prefer to consider the cycle as a continuous reaction rather than a one-time activity.

The only reason this is not likely to happen with most PetCo or LFS rock is that those typically only have bacteria established, not lots of other macro-life forms like on the ocean rock that may die off during transit. The main issue with LFS rock is getting enough to be able to process the ammonia load of the system it is intended for. If you buy too little rock, there will still be measureable ammonia in the system until the bacteria populations in the system catch up to current bioload. Though I cannot give lots of specific examples nor share studies proving these points (so you can choose to consider my opinions unverifiable), I am quite confident in the statement that the nitrogen cycle occurs continuously in our saltwater systems and is a balance between inputs and outputs through effects from components in the process that facilitate the transfers in-between.


No, if your ready the previous pages, I said how I cured out the hitchhikers as well as posting pictures of them.

There's a lot of nasties I don't want in my tank.
That is a good clarification that I did not make about my shipment:
Though I did not do either hypo- or hyper-salinity dips or any other hitchhiker removal method in this case, I set up my tank just for holding and observing the live rock secluded from other systems to try to prevent harmful introductions into my other systems.

I'm glad I did this, as I have removed several whelks (that were sometimes caught predating on other snails), found a couple dead cirolanid isopods within the first couple days, and removed a couple worms (some dead, a couple alive) that were likely Eunicid 'Bobbit' worms.

Since I will be running live rock culture systems indefinitely at this point, I will probably always quarantine live rock to observe life forms before introducing to main reef systems. I may consider hypersaline dips before introduction to help watch for dangerous life forms.
 
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d2mini

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I agree but I’m just curious Have you ever put live rock with hitchhikers and everything in a fresh tank that hasn’t been cycled yet?
YES! See any of my past builds.
The TBS rock always goes straight from the bag of water, into the a brand new tank full of fresh saltwater.
That's exactly how it works.
But like @LiverockRocks (and myself and some others) have said above, it's still not a fully cycled and mature tank jsut because you dropped in some live rock. But you are wayyyy ahead of the game.
 
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brandon429

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What portion of cycling isn't complete, when cured live rock is set in a tank

Are you both stating that ammonia control is weak on day one, then gets better if we wait 30 more days?

Need specifics

Are you both saying that adding cured live rock causes dieoff and that spikes ammonia initially? Cured live rock like from above?
 
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d2mini

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What portion of cycling isn't complete, when cured live rock is set in a tank

Are you both stating that ammonia control is weak on day one, then gets better if we wait 30 more days?

Need specifics

Are you both saying that adding cured live rock causes dieoff and that spikes ammonia initially? Cured live rock like from above?
I'm probably blurring the lines between two different things... a cycled tank and a mature tank. This is in response to those saying you can go balls to the wall and throw in anything you'd like because you just dropped in some live rock.

It's been my experience that this is not true. Although the tank is capable of housing some fish and some coral, it's not in any way near the capacity of a fully established tank, say more than a year old.

I'm going through this right now. I'm used to how I was able to treat a 2 year old reef tank as far as what I could put it and how it would do. Now with my newly established tank I'm being reminded I need to take it easy and not push it too hard.

Maybe that has something to do with what is dying off. Maybe it has to do with all the other surfaces that eventually become populated with good bacteria. Maybe it has something to do with what goes on in the sand bed. I have no idea, its a mystery. But this has been my experience.
 
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d2mini

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and removed a couple worms (some dead, a couple alive) that were likely Eunicid 'Bobbit' worms.
I'm curious, did you identify them as such?
I would say "likely" it was bristle worms. Common and beneficial.
They can be found in gulf waters, but I've never had a bobbit in any of my gulf rock, that I know of.
I'd be more surprised if that's what you found.
 
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pr_diver

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if its Live rock out of the ocean with coralline algae all over you could probs add as many fish as you want tbh
I've always used fresh harvested live rock out of our lagoon in the back yard here in Puerto Rico. I know 99% of people don't have that ability, but I've done 5-300gallon tanks and marine ponds with these rocks and instantly added fish to the setups. That being said these our highly covered Coraline algae rocks.

PXL_20230116_143522494.jpg
PXL_20230116_143528393.jpg
PXL_20230103_011411822.jpg
 
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Lost in the Sauce

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I'm curious, did you identify them as such?
I would say "likely" it was bristle worms. Common and beneficial.
They can be found in gulf waters, but I've never had a bobbit in any of my gulf rock, that I know of.
I'd be more surprised if that's what you found.
This looks to be in the Eunicidae world. I had plenty of them. Not saying it's a Bobbitt. It's unwelcome none the less.
PXL_20220322_184523204.jpg
 
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d2mini

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This looks to be in the Eunicidae world. I had plenty of them. Not saying it's a Bobbitt. It's unwelcome none the less.
Whatever that is, I don't want to look at it that big/close. :eek: :face-with-tears-of-joy:
 
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Wizard677

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I have successfully started two tanks in the last 2 years using live rock, live sand, a bottle of Dr Tims bacteria and waiting 2 weeks before adding fish. The second tank is a 90 gallon system, I used 5 gallons of water from the existing tank. I waited 2 weeks, ran tests, added 1 fish and continued to test. 1 week later added 2 more fish. In a month I had five or so fish and started placing Corals in the tanks. I have never registered ammonia using Hannah Checkers or API tests. The only issue I had was bringing nitrates and phosphates up.
 
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Soren

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What portion of cycling isn't complete, when cured live rock is set in a tank

Are you both stating that ammonia control is weak on day one, then gets better if we wait 30 more days?

Need specifics

Are you both saying that adding cured live rock causes dieoff and that spikes ammonia initially? Cured live rock like from above?
The terminology I prefer is that a tank is cycling at a certain bioload on an ongoing basis rather than being "cycled" once upon startup (which seems to be industry standard terminology right now, but does not really seem to explain what is actually happening biologically). This assumes the following:
There is enough established nitrifying bacteria (and other ammonia uptakers, such as algae) in the tank to nitrify the typical ammonia load fast enough as to keep it undetectable on an ongoing basis.
We don't just want to see that ammonia is being converted to nitrites then nitrates, we want to know how much ammonia is converted how fast. A functioning system should always contain ammonia, just at undetectable levels due to a rapid rate of uptake or nitrification within a balance between the components of the ecosystem.

Ammonia control is not necessarily weak on day one, just only as strong as the bacteria populations established on the live rock can nitrify. If we wait 30 more days, the other surfaces in the newly setup tank will become populated by additional bacteria, so the ammonia reduction per time will be greater as long as there is an ammonia source for the growing populations and not enough time has elapsed for previous colonies to have starved (I think they can go dormant for long periods, over months, maybe? I'd have to research this further to know what others have found, as I have not studied this specifically myself). If the amount of established bacteria is not enough to convert an amount of ammonia input higher than capabilities (think of only one tiny established rock added into a new system that is then way over-stocked), the amount of ammonia input from the stocking will exceed the uptake/nitrification rate and ammonia will build in the system.

Also, to be clear, I am not stating that adding cured live rock will cause die-off, just that it can do so through life forms that did not survive the transport and through destabilizations in the ecosystem due to rivaling species until a new equilibrium is reached.

If the live rock is acquired through a very short time in transport from a system that is verified cycling at a certain bioload, it will carry a certain nitrification power that will be able to handle a particular upper limit of ammonia introduction. The main concern I am iterating here is how that nitrification power is verified. If one is to start with a limited stocking plan over time with a decent amount of this live rock (see recommendations from those with more experience than me for amounts), a "cycle" should never be observed.


I'm probably blurring the lines between two different things... a cycled tank and a mature tank. This is in response to those saying you can go balls to the wall and throw in anything you'd like because you just dropped in some live rock.

It's been my experience that this is not true. Although the tank is capable of housing some fish and some coral, it's not in any way near the capacity of a fully established tank, say more than a year old.

I'm going through this right now. I'm used to how I was able to treat a 2 year old reef tank as far as what I could put it and how it would do. Now with my newly established tank I'm being reminded I need to take it easy and not push it too hard.

Maybe that has something to do with what is dying off. Maybe it has to do with all the other surfaces that eventually become populated with good bacteria. Maybe it has something to do with what goes on in the sand bed. I have no idea, its a mystery. But this has been my experience.
I think your differentiation between cycled and mature is inline with what I am saying. If an initial "cycle" is measured per the common dry-rock and bottle-bacteria start commonly used today, it does not directly verify that the maximum amount of bacteria and an equilibrated ecosystem has been reached (which is what I think would be considered a mature tank). A mature tank has a much more robust ecosystem dealing with more inputs, outputs, and quantity of factors in the transfers of the system than a newly "cycled" tank.


I'm curious, did you identify them as such?
I would say "likely" it was bristle worms. Common and beneficial.
They can be found in gulf waters, but I've never had a bobbit in any of my gulf rock, that I know of.
I'd be more surprised if that's what you found.
No, sorry, I did not get pictures or confirm certainly and may have misspoken the term "Bobbit", but I definitely pulled worms out that had 5 antennae on the head and certainly seemed to fit the Eunicid worm description enough for me to be concerned. I am generally familiar with bristleworm ID at this point, so I am quite certain that the ones I removed were not bristleworms.


This looks to be in the Eunicidae world. I had plenty of them. Not saying it's a Bobbitt. It's unwelcome none the less.
PXL_20220322_184523204.jpg
I'm missing a close-up photo like yours, but this definitely looks the same as what I remember removing almost a year ago. At least one was lighter in color and more iridescent, similar to the photos I've seen of Bobbit worms, though I do not have conclusive ID.
 
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Soren

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I have successfully started two tanks in the last 2 years using live rock, live sand, a bottle of Dr Tims bacteria and waiting 2 weeks before adding fish. The second tank is a 90 gallon system, I used 5 gallons of water from the existing tank. I waited 2 weeks, ran tests, added 1 fish and continued to test. 1 week later added 2 more fish. In a month I had five or so fish and started placing Corals in the tanks. I have never registered ammonia using Hannah Checkers or API tests. The only issue I had was bringing nitrates and phosphates up.
From what I have read, I am fairly confident that your system had an overload of established bacteria on the live rock and sand, as well as the (arguably by some as unnecessary) introduction of bottled bacteria and the wait time for your 90g system volume and your limited stocking plan. There were not enough ammonia producers to ever exceed nitrification capabilities, so ammonia was immediately utilized by the significant bacteria. This is corroborated by the issue brining up nutrients: limited nutrient introduction due to minimal stocking (definitely not over-stocked) meant that all nitrates and phosphates were used before detection, possibly while some life forms were under-nourished in the system. This is one of the safest ways to start, since it is easier to add extra nutrients typically in a closed system than it is to deal with an imbalanced ecosystem with too much introduction of some specific nutrient due to demand of one or more life forms.

Example: if too many fish are added to a system too quickly, ammonia production can exceed uptake and nitrification rate due to the waste produced from feeding the fish enough to remain healthy. The quickest solution to this problem would be to limit the production of ammonia, which would require removing or starving some fish. This is not a great solution, so it is better to add fish at a reasonable stocking level over enough time to ensure that the ecosystem stays near equilibrium through the shifts rather than endangering the system through a significant shift away from equilibrium.

If the stocking list is reasonable for the size of tank and amount of real live rock being added, and the rate of adding fish to the tank is not too heavy too fast, chances of success without a measured cycling process are still quite high. Of course, like most things with saltwater tanks, I only ultimately have control over how much information I take in for my saltwater systems and the decisions I make for my systems with that information.
 
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leo12345

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No, if your ready the previous pages, I said how I cured out the hitchhikers as well as posting pictures of them.

There's a lot of nasties I don't want in my tank.
What I meant was have you ever put ocean live rock in a tank that hasn’t been cycled yet and had little die off or none at all? Also one more question do I have to add ammonia or anything to the water like what you would do with dead rock to make it cycle or does ocean live rock not need it?
 
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Lost in the Sauce

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What I meant was have you ever put ocean live rock in a tank that hasn’t been cycled yet and had little die off or none at all?
Yes. Twice. Both times curing out in a backup biocube. Never registered north of .08 Ammonia at the worst and was quickly dropped back to undetectable. This cure includes aggressively blasting the rock with flow to and a stiff brush to clean out the pores of years of buildup. The rock handled it as I expected. It did the job I purchased it for.

The first round, I added a gang of mollies to help eat out the whispy algae on it.
 
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leo12345

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Yes. Twice. Both times curing out in a backup biocube. Never registered north of .08 Ammonia at the worst and was quickly dropped back to undetectable. This cure includes aggressively blasting the rock with flow to and a stiff brush to clean out the pores of years of buildup. The rock handled it as I expected. It did the job I purchased it for.

The first round, I added a gang of mollies to help eat out the whispy algae on it.
2 more questions do I have to add ammonia or anything to the water like what you would do with dead rock to make it cycle or does ocean live rock not need it? And is it okay to drop in some dr Tim’s bacteria that I have laying around just for the heck of it?
 
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