In the Dark with BioPellets

[redfishbluefish]

When I first set up my BioPellet reactor June, 2013, I was told to cover it up because the bacteria preferred darkness. So I took a piece of four inch drain pipe and made a cover for the reactor that even had a door to view the pellets moving:



Jump ahead now, almost 2 1/2 years, and I'm not overly impressed with BioPellets. I'm close to needing to order another gallon of pellets from BRS ($159.99) and questioning if I should try vodka or vinegar or a mixture of the two. I continue to have hair algae issues, so I know I still have a phosphate problem.

So a fellow reefer was visiting today and he questioned my biopellet cover. He claimed that he was told the same about keeping it in the dark, and did so until he added a refugium and a light to his sump. Up to this point, he too wasn't overly impressed with the performance, until after about two to three weeks with the light hitting the reactor, and now his nitrates and phoshates dropped like a rock, and were now zero. He believes the bacterial prefer light and that is what caused his reactor to step it up and clean up his tank.

I've now removed my cover and am going to see what happens. My reactor now also gets some spill over light from the refugium.

What's your experience with light or no light for biopellets?

 

[143MPCo]

I have to admit I also run my biopellet reactor covered and I'm wondering if there isn't some validity towards the argument that it shouldn't be covered, it makes an interesting observation on his part and one that I'm tagging along to in this thread in order to see what others have observed.

I can also say having a covered biopellet reactor in my instance has allowed the growth of sponge in my reactor. These are the long white stringy type that are commonly found in some systems that are void of a light source.

 

[jsker]

Here is the Stupid question: then why were they not made to block out the light in the first place, if that is the best way to run a BIO pellet reactor? How did everything look when the reactor was uncovered?

 

[Jp978]

I have been using Dr. Tims bio pellets for a few years never had a problem tank stays at zero nitrates. My reactor is not covered up and I do not have a light under my stand either.

 

[sureal00]

What about an algae scrubber to replace.I feel bio pellet reactors can work in some systems but are not right for all of them

 

[redfishbluefish]

I have been using Dr. Tims bio pellets for a few years never had a problem tank stays at zero nitrates. My reactor is not covered up and I do not have a light under my stand either.

So is it fair to say you're running your reactor in the dark?

 

[Jp978]

Correct!!

 

[vic5hands]

I run bio pellets. Not covered with no problems.

 

[kschweer]

@Jon Warner may have some insight.

 

[Downbeach]

Here's my response from our local clubs forum, for comments/questions here:
When I started adding SPS to my system, they weren't coloring up as I had expected, and found that my N's and P's were a little on the high side. After some research/reading, I started to carbon dose using Vodka. This brought the N's and P's down a bit, but I started to get some cyano. I switched to vinegar, the cyano disappeared, and the SPS improved. This required daily dosing, and a lot of trial and error, to say nothing of the fact that I was burning through my NO3/PO4 test kits. As an aside, at this point I found that the PO4 kits were not going to do the job, and went to a Hanna meter(good move). Being somewhat lazy, and getting tired of buying test kits, I decided to try BP's, since they were touted to be a "set it and forget it" solution. As with most claims made of products in the hobby, I was very cynical of this statement, but felt it was worth a try, so I bought a BP insert from BRS for ~ $10.00, along with the smallest amount of pellets I could get. I successfully ran BP's for a number of years following the recommendations I found on line(BRS/Reef Octopus/et al), and a bit of fine tuning with experience. When I started, I went through the typical start up regime until I reached the recommended amount (BRS) for my system. I started with my re-purposed BRS reactor I had been running GFO in, and replaced it with a RO reactor once it appeared the BP's were working. During this time I took the GFO off line, but continued to run the fuge. After a short time, the Chaeto started to fall apart, and it became apparent that I wasn't going to be able to run both the BP's and the fuge at the same time successfully, due to the fact that there weren't going to be enough N's and P's for both systems. After removing the Chaeto and the necessary lighting, the pellets began to do their thing in earnest. So my take away/experience from using them was: Use the amount that will work best with your system. Make sure you have the proper flow(just fluidized) going through the reactor. Too slow, and the pellets will begin to clump and clog the reactor, too fast, and you'll just flush the bacteria off the pellets before they can fully colonize, and do their job. Use a reactor intended for BP's, I started with a re-purposed BRS reactor(my GFO), but found the RO reactor made for BP's provided the right flow throughout the entire reactor, and was noticeably better. Also a reactor of the right size is important; I found that filling the reactor(a RO BR110 in my case) about half way when idle, and running it at about 2/3 when fluidized was the sweet spot. A reactor that is too small will not allow you to provide enough flow, and cause the pellet to clump and clog, using a reactor that is too big will cause too much flow, and slough off the bacteria before they can do their job Use and adjustable flow pump(Eheim +2000 in my case), or a valve that you can adjust the flow as needed(lowering the flow as the pellet are consumed). Although the reactor wasn't in black out condition, there was no light in the cabinet once I removed the Chaeto/fuge. It's also important to keep the reactor clean so it will continue to provide the proper amount of flow. To this end I would remove the reactor from my sump about every six months, thoroughly clean, and add another 500 mL of pellets, which is about what was consumed during that time. After a few month's I noticed that the N's were kept in check, but the P's were still a little high (I fed fairly heavy), so I redeployed the GFO reactor. I never used a UV or an Ozone gen, so I can't speak to their effectiveness while using BP's, but it is also recommended that they not be used together with a BP reactor. Although I'm sure there are a number of brands of pellets that will work fine, I never tried them since the brand I bought(BRS) was working fine, and I'm a firm believer of, "if something works, don't fix it".

Let me add to this, that if you're already using a liquid carbon source, i.e. Vodka, Vinegar or some combination, and are starting BP's you should start to reduce your dose, as the pellets start to colonize. Once fully colonized you should stop using the liquid form, and let the pellets do their thing. Otherwise, you may begin to get excessive growth on the pellets, and begin to clump and clog the reactor.

 

[skydancer]

I have been running a bio pellet reactor on my 300g for 3+ years. It is not covered but it sits in my cabinet under the tank which is mostly dark until I open the doors. But I do open the doors several times a day and 2 fluorescent light bulbs come on.
My Nitrates are always at zero. Salifert kit.

 

[Jon Warner]

I don't think that light has an effect on the reactor other than the possibility of algae growth with excessive light.

At least with ecoBAK... just run a low to moderate flow, a slow tumble. Other than that, it's pretty much auto-pilot.

Always remember... if you use GFO you are not going to see good denitrification from pellets. Same goes with low NO3 and PO4 readings.

 

[Vett espinal]

But cant you run Biopellets and gfo in unison, and when you do should it go thru the biopellets first or the GFO and does GFO matter if its high capacity or low , cause ive been running a GFO reactor into my HOB refuguim and it doesnt kill the micro algae causs the pick up is still at the bottom of main tank , but only use the refuguim to keep up pod populations

 

[Steven Postalwait]

But cant you run Biopellets and gfo in unison, and when you do should it go thru the biopellets first or the GFO and does GFO matter if its high capacity or low , cause ive been running a GFO reactor into my HOB refuguim and it doesnt kill the micro algae causs the pick up is still at the bottom of main tank , but only use the refuguim to keep up pod populations

I don't think that light has an effect on the reactor other than the possibility of algae growth with excessive light.

At least with ecoBAK... just run a low to moderate flow, a slow tumble. Other than that, it's pretty much auto-pilot.

Always remember... if you use GFO you are not going to see good denitrification from pellets. Same goes with low NO3 and PO4 readings.

Not understanding why you wouldn’t see denitrification. I run both at the same time along with carbon, and have to dose nitrates and phosphates to see anything when I test. I feed heavily as well, both my fish and my corals.

 

[Jon Warner]

But cant you run Biopellets and gfo in unison, and when you do should it go thru the biopellets first or the GFO and does GFO matter if its high capacity or low , cause ive been running a GFO reactor into my HOB refuguim and it doesnt kill the micro algae causs the pick up is still at the bottom of main tank , but only use the refuguim to keep up pod populations

BioPellets, like ecoBAK need both PO4 and NO3 to work.

For example... if you have very low PO4 and 40ppm NO3, the NO3 will NEVER drop no matter how much BioPellets you use unless you have additional denitrification going on.

Let's look at it closer. The very unique and specific strains of bacteria that grow on the surface of ecoBAK consume both PO4 and NO3 in consistent ratios. Without one or the other, the bacteria can't grow.

And re: the algae, they're excellent nutrient scavengers. As we all know... they can thrive with relatively low nutrients.

PRO-TIP

If you have balanced ratios of P:N use ecoBAK (BioPellets) right away...

If you have low PO4 and high NO3, stop using PO4 removers.

If you have high P and low N... use GFO to reduce your PO4 until N levels "balance out" with PO4 and then discontinue GFO.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

It is hard to follow John but I will put my 2 cents in. I like to use a small magnet on the inside of my reactor so when the pellets clump up I move the magnet. My second cent I put too much in and my skimmer was working like crazy I had skimmate bubbles coming out of the top of my skimmer, it did so well until I notice my Purple Tang looked like a punk rocker with lighting bolts across his head and holes; so he got hellia sorry for the spelling.

 

[Gareth elliott]

I did not use bio pellets as long as others here. But my bio pellet reactor worked well enough uncovered to bring my n and p levels to 0 in a lightly stocked tank. I dont think there is much need to cover it.