Innovative Marine INT 112

[ReefStuff]

Hello,
Looking for other peoples experience with this tank setup and brand. Feedback that is positive, negative and indifferent is welcome. I could pick one up for a very good ($1200) price tag. I have always wanted a legit "reef ready" setup as my current setup is kind of thrown together and less than Ideal in many ways. Although it works. Also this tank is 2x the size of my current setup :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
Setup is Brand new still. Box is open, but all the plastic protective film is still on everything and the plumbing is sealed in packaging bags still. Comes with the Tank, Stand, Plumbing and the RFS29 Sump. Apparently it was purchased during the pandemic and sat in his garage, never even opened it. Now, The unit resides in a pawn shop of all places down the road. This is what gives me pause, I never expected to find a Complete, Reef ready, Brand new aquarium at a pawn shop. But they say the original owner could not sell it at the time, so he brought it to them. The Pawn Shop has had it for a long time and cannot sell it because the initial investment is high, and people coming to Pawn shops generally are not looking for aquariums. I offered them next to nothing I feel like and they are willing to sell it to me.

Innovative Marine only has a 1 year warranty to the original purchaser. I would have no warranty. The tank has never been used, but is a few years old now.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[edsbeaker]

I have a IM 75 gallon that I really like.
Sadly, I would be concerned that the silicone in the tank may have dried up by now and it may leak. Hopefully others will disagree since that is a great deal if seams are OK.

 

[Snoopy 67]

I have a 100 gallon & it's a well made set up.

 

[SpokaneSteve]

Howdy - I have this tank with the EXT configuration. I really like the "lagoon" style and the front-to-back depth of the tank. On the other hand it REALLY projects into the room and the square footprint is something you will want to think about. The volume of water has really helped me get much more parameter stability than I had before in a 40 gallon AIO.

I also have the RFS sump and the IM plumbing. It's a great plug and play solution but it has been very difficult to retro-fit a filter roller into the sump and washing the filter socks 2X a week X3 socks was getting really old....I really think that IM needs to offer us a filter roller solution for these tanks.

I don't know anything about silicone being out of water and losing its adhesion to the glass so I would defer to others. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer! Cheers, Steve

 

[mrpizzaface]

I have a IM 75 gallon that I really like.
Sadly, I would be concerned that the silicone in the tank may have dried up by now and it may leak. Hopefully others will disagree since that is a great deal if seams are OK.

I don’t think silicone dries up like that, as it is nonreactive to water.

 

[ReefStuff]

I have a IM 75 gallon that I really like.
Sadly, I would be concerned that the silicone in the tank may have dried up by now and it may leak. Hopefully others will disagree since that is a great deal if seams are OK.

Could you elaborate? I hear of people "re-sealing" tanks a lot. Every tank I have had has never leaked, used for many years.
Is there a way to check the silicone without filling up the tank? Signs to look out for? And how hard is re-sealing a tank if it does leak?

 

[ReefStuff]

I don’t think silicone dries up like that, as it is nonreactive to water.

Tank has been in its box for roughly 2 years. Never filled with water, Plastic film still on tank.

 

[edsbeaker]

Could you elaborate? I hear of people "re-sealing" tanks a lot. Every tank I have had has never leaked, used for many years.
Is there a way to check the silicone without filling up the tank? Signs to look out for? And how hard is re-sealing a tank if it does leak?

I just recall, years ago, that I “heard”, so I’m not sure. I’ve been in the hobby for 30 years, so this is possibly outdated info since material has changed over the years. Hopefully more people will post and confirm that it’s not a problem. I would be happy to be wrong!!!!

 

[mrpizzaface]

Tank has been in its box for roughly 2 years. Never filled with water, Plastic film still on tank.

I wouldn't worry about it. I have a red sea reefer 250 ( a brand with questionable silicone) it has been sitting empty for 7 years, and I am gonna set it up this month. Not worried, but will monitor. For the IM i would just take a look a the seems, if it is all intact without gaps, i wouldn't be worried at all.

 

[ReefStuff]

Howdy - I have this tank with the EXT configuration. I really like the "lagoon" style and the front-to-back depth of the tank. On the other hand it REALLY projects into the room and the square footprint is something you will want to think about. The volume of water has really helped me get much more parameter stability than I had before in a 40 gallon AIO.

I also have the RFS sump and the IM plumbing. It's a great plug and play solution but it has been very difficult to retro-fit a filter roller into the sump and washing the filter socks 2X a week X3 socks was getting really old....I really think that IM needs to offer us a filter roller solution for these tanks.

Turns out the sump was not included with the tank. I got a better deal on the price without the sump. Thank you VERY much for your input on the roller situation. It made the decision of going forward without the RFS sump very easy to make.
Now I can get a sump that will seemingly check all the boxes. Thanks again!

 

[saltcats]

I really like IM, I have 2 tanks from them and would definitely strongly consider getting another if/when I want to upgrade again!

Even if you aren't getting the sump I think it's worth mentioning I'm pleased with the quality of mine since it speaks to the brand as a whole :) it's my first time with a sump so I don't have much basis for comparison but it seems nicely put together with all the bells and whistles (cord holders, dosing line holders etc) and the guys from my LFS who set it up for me were impressed by it! I assume they've seen many systems and know what they're talking about.

The glass is really nice and clear on both my tanks and the silicone work is clean. Their customer support was very responsive and helpful when I had questions about the set up also.

The only thing that would give me pause with the silicone is that the tank was sitting in the garage for a few years - exposed to hot summers and cold winters? But I know others have set up tanks they've kept stored like that for ages and not had problems.

 

[ReefStuff]

I really like IM, I have 2 tanks from them and would definitely strongly consider getting another if/when I want to upgrade again!

Even if you aren't getting the sump I think it's worth mentioning I'm pleased with the quality of mine since it speaks to the brand as a whole :) it's my first time with a sump so I don't have much basis for comparison but it seems nicely put together with all the bells and whistles (cord holders, dosing line holders etc) and the guys from my LFS who set it up for me were impressed by it! I assume they've seen many systems and know what they're talking about.

The glass is really nice and clear on both my tanks and the silicone work is clean. Their customer support was very responsive and helpful when I had questions about the set up also.

The only thing that would give me pause with the silicone is that the tank was sitting in the garage for a few years - exposed to hot summers and cold winters? But I know others have set up tanks they've kept stored like that for ages and not had problems.

The silicone looks brand new after taking a look. Still kind of shiny and “soft” as if this tank came directly from IM and never sat in a garage. I will leak test it soon.

 

[Summitwynds2]

Turns out the sump was not included with the tank. I got a better deal on the price without the sump. Thank you VERY much for your input on the roller situation. It made the decision of going forward without the RFS sump very easy to make.
Now I can get a sump that will seemingly check all the boxes. Thanks again!

I’ve got the 112 INT - Just set it up this fall. I love the size of it. I had considered the 200 or 240, but super glad I went with the 112. I didn’t want the sump it came with as it didn’t have a refugium. I bought a BashSea 3018 and it’s perfect. I plumbed it myself.

Thats a really good deal, did you buy it?

 

[ReefStuff]

I’ve got the 112 INT - Just set it up this fall. I love the size of it. I had considered the 200 or 240, but super glad I went with the 112. I didn’t want the sump it came with as it didn’t have a refugium. I bought a BashSea 3018 and it’s perfect. I plumbed it myself.

Thats a really good deal, did you buy it?

I did :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
Without the Sump I managed to walk away with a brand new INT 112 with APS Stand for 1k. I looked up the sump while looking at the tank. Only ones both of us could find at the time were about $800 new. I don't think that is accurate but it helped me knock off another $200.

Then the realities of my overzealous mind came to the forefront. Namely, I can't move it on my own like previous tanks and my 35 gallon Brute for Saltwater is now sorely undersized and an actual mix station with 2 55 gallon (Min) barrels are needed now.

I reached on FB on my local neighborhood group and asked if any others Reefers wanted to help me carry a tank 100ft for $20. Met a nice guy that is likely on this forum as he has had tanks for many years. It was clear he has a vast knowledge of reefing, far beyond my own. I have been out of the hobby for about 18 years. It was fun talking about old LFS stores and corals etc. People I had met in passing at LFS stores and Coral farms back then, he seemed to know by 1st name. Don't think dropping his real name online would be appropriate but, to the guy that helped me move the INT 112 into my house in Oregon City, THANK YOU! And, we should have had 3 people :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:.

I did not like how high the tank sat with the separate adjustable base and APS stand. I took the adjustable feet off the base, and added them directly to the APS stand. Took some slight modification to the stand, but only took about an hour. Now it sits about 3" lower and I retained the adjustability.

I continued my search for sumps and stumbled into the last fairly close Reef dedicated LFS store. No one had sumps previously. I was looking into the exact sump you got. However the owner had an old tank from a customer that had failed but the sump was still fine. Red Sea 425XL G2 (I think) Sump. All glass (which I like) 30"x20" (its 29.75" x 19.5" actually). Missing the refugium wall and filter sock holder trays. But does have wire management installed from previous owner :). I asked how much? He shrugged and said "100 bucks". I said SOLD. Also picked up new skimmer and return pump for $531.00 total out the door. I picked up two 11"x14" x1/4" black acrylic sheets off amazon for $23.99. One fits as the refugium wall making the depth 11". The other sheet I cut and modified to fit and work as filter sock/cup holder trays.

I grabbed a 10gal fish tank from petco for 14.99 and a glass lid to act as my ATO reservoir. I still need a UV, Kalk Stirrer, Dosing pump, dosing containers, Sand, Rocks, Water, Wave makers etc :oops:.

I just started plumbing the tank to test routes, placement of stuff etc. I plumbed it so I can set the 10gal on top of the Sump. But I am not 100% if I want it there or like the pics. On top makes accessing the socks a little more cumbersome, and would need to service that regularly. Kids added some Marine Life Flare to the tank too for the time being.

 

[Summitwynds2]

I did :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
Without the Sump I managed to walk away with a brand new INT 112 with APS Stand for 1k. I looked up the sump while looking at the tank. Only ones both of us could find at the time were about $800 new. I don't think that is accurate but it helped me knock off another $200.

Then the realities of my overzealous mind came to the forefront. Namely, I can't move it on my own like previous tanks and my 35 gallon Brute for Saltwater is now sorely undersized and an actual mix station with 2 55 gallon (Min) barrels are needed now.

I reached on FB on my local neighborhood group and asked if any others Reefers wanted to help me carry a tank 100ft for $20. Met a nice guy that is likely on this forum as he has had tanks for many years. It was clear he has a vast knowledge of reefing, far beyond my own. I have been out of the hobby for about 18 years. It was fun talking about old LFS stores and corals etc. People I had met in passing at LFS stores and Coral farms back then, he seemed to know by 1st name. Don't think dropping his real name online would be appropriate but, to the guy that helped me move the INT 112 into my house in Oregon City, THANK YOU! And, we should have had 3 people :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:.

I did not like how high the tank sat with the separate adjustable base and APS stand. I took the adjustable feet off the base, and added them directly to the APS stand. Took some slight modification to the stand, but only took about an hour. Now it sits about 3" lower and I retained the adjustability.

I continued my search for sumps and stumbled into the last fairly close Reef dedicated LFS store. No one had sumps previously. I was looking into the exact sump you got. However the owner had an old tank from a customer that had failed but the sump was still fine. Red Sea 425XL G2 (I think) Sump. All glass (which I like) 30"x20" (its 29.75" x 19.5" actually). Missing the refugium wall and filter sock holder trays. But does have wire management installed from previous owner :). I asked how much? He shrugged and said "100 bucks". I said SOLD. Also picked up new skimmer and return pump for $531.00 total out the door. I picked up two 11"x14" x1/4" black acrylic sheets off amazon for $23.99. One fits as the refugium wall making the depth 11". The other sheet I cut and modified to fit and work as filter sock/cup holder trays.

I grabbed a 10gal fish tank from petco for 14.99 and a glass lid to act as my ATO reservoir. I still need a UV, Kalk Stirrer, Dosing pump, dosing containers, Sand, Rocks, Water, Wave makers etc :oops:.

I just started plumbing the tank to test routes, placement of stuff etc. I plumbed it so I can set the 10gal on top of the Sump. But I am not 100% if I want it there or like the pics. On top makes accessing the socks a little more cumbersome, and would need to service that regularly. Kids added some Marine Life Flare to the tank too for the time being.

Nice! Great deal on the sump too!

The base with the leveling feet didn't work for me either. I have a low ceiling where the tank sits and I'd never be able to work inside the tank. Luckily, my floor (basement tile) was level so it wasn't necessary at all. What pump are you using? Im getting really low flow (according to my flow meter) and not quite sure why. I plumbed it myself. No manifolds, but I do have a UV plumbed in. Still when I close the gatevalve and direct all the water through the flow meter and UV, the flow only goes up a little.

 

[ReefStuff]

Nice! Great deal on the sump too!

The base with the leveling feet didn't work for me either. I have a low ceiling where the tank sits and I'd never be able to work inside the tank. Luckily, my floor (basement tile) was level so it wasn't necessary at all. What pump are you using? Im getting really low flow (according to my flow meter) and not quite sure why. I plumbed it myself. No manifolds, but I do have a UV plumbed in. Still when I close the gatevalve and direct all the water through the flow meter and UV, the flow only goes up a little.

I have a Simplicity DC2100gph....or 2300gph...cant remember.
What kind of pump? What pipe size? DC or AC pump?
What UV? Dumb question, but did you take apart the UV 1st and make sure they done have packing material inside go protect the light? Never seen that on any of mine, but maybe.

I run UV way different. Its not installed yet buuuut. I run them on a separate dedicated loop. The reason being is getting the contact time required with UV through the return pump is (IMO) very hard to do. Separately I can slow the flow via DC pump through the UV to achieve contact times I need without getting too expensive on UV systems. The concept that it is not as efficient falls short for me because we run our skimmers in the sump and don't complain about the efficiency.

 

[Summitwynds2]

I have a Simplicity DC2100gph....or 2300gph...cant remember.
What kind of pump? What pipe size? DC or AC pump?
What UV? Dumb question, but did you take apart the UV 1st and make sure they done have packing material inside go protect the light? Never seen that on any of mine, but maybe.

I run UV way different. It’s not installed yet buuuut. I run them on a separate dedicated loop. The reason being is getting the contact time required with UV through the return pump is (IMO) very hard to do. Separately I can slow the flow via DC pump through the UV to achieve contact times I need without getting too expensive on UV systems. The concept that it is not as efficient falls short for me because we run our skimmers in the sump and don't complain about the efficiency.

I started out with VarioS4, then moved up to a VarioS8. UV is an Aqua Ultraviolet 25w. It came with the lamp in its own container, so I had to install it, so no packaging left in the UV. I plumbed it so that there are 2 ways to get to the return in the overflow. One goes through the UV (this is where I have the flow meter, the other has a gate valve so I can control the flow. If I close the gate valve, Im getting about 100GPH through the UV. If I have the gate valve 100% open I get about 77 GPH. Doesnt seem right to me. It’s the 3/4” tubing/piping that came with the tank.

Do you have a flow meter on your set up? Are you using the loc line and tubing/pipes that came with the tank?

 

[ReefStuff]

I started out with VarioS4, then moved up to a VarioS8. UV is an Aqua Ultraviolet 25w. It came with the lamp in its own container, so I had to install it, so no packaging left in the UV. I plumbed it so that there are 2 ways to get to the return in the overflow. One goes through the UV (this is where I have the flow meter, the other has a gate valve so I can control the flow. If I close the gate valve, Im getting about 100GPH through the UV. If I have the gate valve 100% open I get about 77 GPH. Doesnt seem right to me. It’s the 3/4” tubing/piping that came with the tank.

Do you have a flow meter on your set up? Are you using the loc line and tubing/pipes that came with the tank?

I do not use flow meters. Yes, I use the loc-Line. The loc-Line will reduce some flow as it is restricted a little... But not down to 77GPH. In troubleshooting I use the "divide and conquer" technique. In this case I would start at the pump. Disconnect the line and test it. I would make some kind of temp loop back into the sump if that makes sense. Not sure how you plumbed, hoping you can service still?
Before that though, Is the flow coming out of your loc-line/return actually really low? Can you barely feel the water coming out? Are you basing this solely on the flow meter is my point. I work in a calibration facility as my 9-5. Flow meters are not great units to begin with as a whole as far as reading what is actually happening. Many variables, algae, salts etc can effect the reading. Not that they don't work, but I would not put all my faith in the reading without some other verification. Curious, did the flow meter come with a certificate of calibration?

Quick thought - Is your sump under the tank? Or is it plumbed to a basement/other room with 20' of head pressure? That would do it of that is the case.

Here is what I would do if I was in your shoes right now AND the sump is under the tank. (*If you have not already)
1) Test only the Pump and some 3/4" tube. If that flows properly, move on, its not the pump. If not, warranty or check the impeller. (I had a pump plugged in, but not 100% once, the flow was drastically low. Stupid, yet easy potential to solve also)
2) I would then move to moving parts. (Gate Valve) and ensure its actually opening. Can you visually inspect it by chance?
3) I would then eliminate the UV and flow directly to tank.
4) Go ahead and replace the loc-line. Anything can happen, but I haven't had any issue with it and I did a quick search and cant find anyone with issues with the OEM return system not flowing. Google says 3/4" line should run 810GPH. I'm sure it flows more, but at least we have a data number for comparison vs only what the pump is rated for. I would assume the meter (if it is accurate) should be reading about this 810GPH number.
5) By now you should have a good idea of what is stopping the flow.

One more stupid note: Is the meter reading GPH? Long shot buuut, if its reading LPM.... The math would be (77*60)/3.854 = 1198.754GPH. Which on a 2300GPH pump rising about 5' would be about right I think.

If it were me, I would plumb my return as a single line. The UV I would run on a second DC pump in a closed loop fed from my sump and return to my sump. That way you can adjust the flow to the UV when needed to make it more effective. If you're using it to help ich you need more contact time. if it is solely for algae, inline with the return is fine. If you want to help with ich, water would need to be in that UV for about 3 seconds before it exits the tube FYI.
Got any pics of you sump system in question?

 

[braaap]

I wouldn't worry about it. I have a red sea reefer 250 ( a brand with questionable silicone) it has been sitting empty for 7 years, and I am gonna set it up this month. Not worried, but will monitor. For the IM i would just take a look a the seems, if it is all intact without gaps, i wouldn't be worried at all.

You should absolutely be worried about that. Those have been failing like crazy. 1 or 2 a week on the forums.

OP you shouldn't be worried about the IM. Mine sat brand new in the crate for 2 years. Ordered during the pandemic. Setup in July and you would never know.

 

[Summitwynds2]

Great info. I hope I haven't hijacked your thread. I can open up a new one if you would want me to. I was curious as to your plumbing set up and whether you might be getting a bottle neck from your locline return.

My sump is under the tank. Everything is in the basement (finished room). I am getting flow out of the locline, its not a little trickle. I'll get a video. And pictures of my sump set up. But will look into your suggestions first.
1. I dont think its the pump. I've tried 2 pumps now. First a VarioS4 and now a VarioS8. Went from about 35GPH to 75GPH
2. I can't inspect the inside of the Gatevalve. But I do get an increase in the flow from about 75 to 100 when I close it. So it is working as the gate valve is installed to control how much is going to the UV - which the flow meter is on the front side of the UV.
3. Not sure I can do that unless I replumb everything.
4. I'll try removing the loc line and see if it increases on the flow meter. It seems the locline is smaller than 3/4"

The meter is reading GPH -- Its a Hydros Meter. But that would make sense for more accurate readings. I'll look into this as well. Maybe somethings messed up in the settings.
Thanks for your help!

I do not use flow meters. Yes, I use the loc-Line. The loc-Line will reduce some flow as it is restricted a little... But not down to 77GPH. In troubleshooting I use the "divide and conquer" technique. In this case I would start at the pump. Disconnect the line and test it. I would make some kind of temp loop back into the sump if that makes sense. Not sure how you plumbed, hoping you can service still?
Before that though, Is the flow coming out of your loc-line/return actually really low? Can you barely feel the water coming out? Are you basing this solely on the flow meter is my point. I work in a calibration facility as my 9-5. Flow meters are not great units to begin with as a whole as far as reading what is actually happening. Many variables, algae, salts etc can effect the reading. Not that they don't work, but I would not put all my faith in the reading without some other verification. Curious, did the flow meter come with a certificate of calibration?

Quick thought - Is your sump under the tank? Or is it plumbed to a basement/other room with 20' of head pressure? That would do it of that is the case.

Here is what I would do if I was in your shoes right now AND the sump is under the tank. (*If you have not already)
1) Test only the Pump and some 3/4" tube. If that flows properly, move on, its not the pump. If not, warranty or check the impeller. (I had a pump plugged in, but not 100% once, the flow was drastically low. Stupid, yet easy potential to solve also)
2) I would then move to moving parts. (Gate Valve) and ensure its actually opening. Can you visually inspect it by chance?
3) I would then eliminate the UV and flow directly to tank.
4) Go ahead and replace the loc-line. Anything can happen, but I haven't had any issue with it and I did a quick search and cant find anyone with issues with the OEM return system not flowing. Google says 3/4" line should run 810GPH. I'm sure it flows more, but at least we have a data number for comparison vs only what the pump is rated for. I would assume the meter (if it is accurate) should be reading about this 810GPH number.
5) By now you should have a good idea of what is stopping the flow.

One more stupid note: Is the meter reading GPH? Long shot buuut, if its reading LPM.... The math would be (77*60)/3.854 = 1198.754GPH. Which on a 2300GPH pump rising about 5' would be about right I think.

If it were me, I would plumb my return as a single line. The UV I would run on a second DC pump in a closed loop fed from my sump and return to my sump. That way you can adjust the flow to the UV when needed to make it more effective. If you're using it to help ich you need more contact time. if it is solely for algae, inline with the return is fine. If you want to help with ich, water would need to be in that UV for about 3 seconds before it exits the tube FYI.
Got any pics of you sump system in question?