Internal or External Return Pumps: Which do you trust the most?

Is your return pump an external or internal pump?

  • Internal

    Votes: 437 80.0%
  • External

    Votes: 93 17.0%
  • Other (please explain)

    Votes: 16 2.9%

  • Total voters
    546

Aquarist76

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Internal - In sump below tank
I love the Varios 8. Going to put two in my new setup.
Never saw the need for external (also never had a basement sump setup either)
 

HJ99

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I would imagine most people using external are using it in a basement sump or fish room type of application, probably not that many in cabinets. I also think those applications are where each particular pump shines, save for the real nice DC pumps made for high head pressures.
That's why I'm going external. It certainly depends on the application. I'll be pumping from the basement . I actually just ordered an Iwaki that I am confident will be up to the task and from what I've read, possibly outlast me !
 

Billdogg

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I've used both. I like them both. I've used Iwaki, little giant, and Reeflo Darts externally. The only issue I had was with the DART and it was just a seal that needed replaced. All of them make too much noise for use in a living area IMO but make great remote pumps. The downside to any of them is energy consumption.

For internal pumps I use Mag Drive (mag 18's) and eheim 1262's. The Mag 18 is a great pump that moves a ton of water, but it's a bit loud. It makes a great pump for remote locations - my frag tank and mixing barrel in the basement where as an added benefit I can get away with almost no heater in the FT sump due to the heat from the mag18.

In my DT, I use a eheim 1262. I actually have a pair. One is currently a backup for when the mag18 goes down in the FT. It is over 40 years old and going strong. The one in my DT is now about 10 and I fully expect it to outlast me.
 

fishbulb

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Internal. I don't want to have to worry about a leak and I welcome the extra heat into the system. With the new LED lights and open top, the heater runs more than I'd like. Why not just keep the heat in the system rather than venting to the room? If I would, I would cool the LEDs lights with the tank!
 

Davedave

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External for me. Sump is in the basement so that application is useful. I had a pan world running flawlessly for about 10 years. 3 months ago i noticed a leak in the bulkhead on the sump which was an old beat up 90 gallon. Thus it was a good time to install a smaller sump which is now a 40 gallon breeder. It only made sense to purchase another Pan World due to the age of my original. When plumbing the new 40 breeder i installed the new Pan World and basically re-plumbed everything in the guts department. I then dis-assembled the old pump and boxed it up for emergency use down the line. Super pleased with the Pan World external pump.
20201119_190954_resized.jpg
 

reefnfun

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I have a basement sump that is about 30 across and 11 feet down from my display tank. I use reeflo hammerhead. it is a beast. I just don't worry about the power bill. 1 have 1 1/2" pvc lines it pumps 2000 gallons per hour so I don't need any powerheads in my DT. I have good luck with it over the years. The basement is not finished so i am not to worried about leaks.
 

Shooter6

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Ive had both over the years. My opinion is every dedicated external leaks eventually.
My current system has internals. 2 dcp20000.
My current build will have internal returns but external closed loop pumps. For those ill be ordering 4 of either the mcd 10000, or dcq 10000. Im leaning towards the mcd since they have wifi app capability and more wave pattern options on the app. .
Each will be placed in a tote with a leak detector, so when they eventually do spring a leak i can get an alert, and close the valves cutting it off from the tank.
 

Treefer32

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I had an external Reeflo Hammerhead pump on my 220 when my sump was in the basement. I needed something that would flow 20-30 feet of angled head pressure upwards from the basement. Now, I'm using the same sump on my 340 but they're ten feet a part. It's probably overkill. I had to put a manifold on and redirect the flow to other devices. So, I now run a cannister filter (25 micron) and ATS scrubber off my return pump with virtually no flow loss (in fact might be too much flow to the display). So, I just used the same pump instead of starting over. I bought a second of the same pump for my water change / mixing station. It's way over kill but no powerheads needed to mix salt water now. :)

Plus I have a backup if the main one dies with the same threading, size pipes, etc. The only issue with the Reeflo pumps is that where the pipe threads into the pump even with thread sealant and thread tape, etc, the outlet leaks. I put a half a bottle of liquid thread sealer on and around my return pump and so far, in two years of running, no additional leaks than from the first few days it ran.

That said, the pump has run for two years without being cleaned or dismantled with no loss of flow. How many can say that about an internal return pump that constantly builds up calcium and degrades due to being submersed in our adverse salt water conditions? I expect at least another 10 years out of the external pump. I turn it off once a month for maintenance on the tank or to glue corals down, it's never failed me.
 

Jeffcb

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I have a Sicce 3.0 in the sump of my Reefer 250. Works great. 2 Cor 20's are going in the sump of my 240gal. I have used external pumps and they work good but this is to easy and dc wireless control. I was going to use the Cor 15's which is plenty but the Cor 20 can run with Apex or stand alone. Being oversized they can dial them back quite abit.

For me its the only way to go.


20210105_143136.jpg
 

Buckster

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My sump years ago had a hole on the bottom of the sidewall and I used an external pump which is now in my garage. Since getting back into reefing I am using an internal. Started with the Sicce but recently bought and switched over to the Abyzz A100. I can't hear it running! The Sicce produced enough heat that my heater very seldom turned on and my 180 would reach temps around 80 during the summer months. Not only is the Abyzz silent but very little heat is produced and the heater has finally been turning on. Will be great during summertime if the tank can stay around 78.
 

mehaffydr

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I voted internal because that wouu II of be the safest if something leaks and the water helps cool the pump. That being said I have external because of the size tank I have I need to pump thousands of gallons. So I use Reelfoot pump
 

Vette67

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If we're really talking 'trust', then decades-proven pumps like Iwaki and Panworld/Blueline will 'win' hands down. External only, of course, so that's a limitation for many ..... plus none of them are exactly quiet. But if you want a decade, maybe even more, of trouble-free performance, hard to beat. No need to futz around with spares or redundant pumps. They'll also pump up from the basement.

For me, reliability and ability to handle pressure means an AC external as my main return pump. I do use internal/submersibles for certain applications though.

It'll be interesting to see the split. I bet its 10:1.
Couldn't have said it better myself. For me, there is only external, and the brands listed above. I have an Iwaki pump that has been running continuously for over 15 years, that has never even been cleaned, much less fixed. Impeller is still original.

The whole idea of redundant pumps is completely foreign to me. I don't even get the concept. Why....? You bought the wrong pump if you think you need 2. Why not pay more for 1 and be done? Oh that's right. DC is dependably undependable, which necessitates the purchase of redundancies.
 

don_chuwish

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Internal. I don't need to worry about heat, definitely wanted it as quiet as possible, and don't have much free space for an external. Also just generally gave me the heebeejeebies thinking of the potential for a leak. I realize it's probably not a rational fear - plenty of other places this system could leak anyway!
 

bkpky

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I run external. Ecotech Vectra L2 pushing my return and an older L1 pushing my manifold which feeds UV, Canister Filters, Fuge. If the older L1 were to fail I have the ability to turn a valve and run the return and manifold of the main return pump. I also put a new L2 style flute on the older pump so I can easier swap if needed.

The reason for external was my former 90g ran warm and needed a chiller when AC pumps were inside. My new build 250g I went external to keep the heat down. I am about to get a replacement LifeReef sump as my current was added to for volume from previous 90gal. In my new sump I plan to go back to internal. With the increased volume and moving from AC to DC I don't need a chiller and in fact my heaters run year round since we keep our home on 72 year round and I aim for 78 in the tank. Hoping going internal will reduce heater use.
 

Totalchaos13

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External - I have fish room. Want the heat outside the tank. Using Sicce DC now but used a Reeflo Hammerhead for 8 years with zero issues. I don’t like internal in a big system due to difficulty of cleaning, lack of visibility to issues, etc. I get the concerns over leaks but in my 20+ years of experience they only happen when you do something wrong with your plumbing or they’re so small you can easily fix them.

I also have an external recirc skimmer. More control and same reasoning.
 

powers2001

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I like both for various reasons. On my (WC&MS) Water Change & Mixing Station, I use an external pump because that's about the only way to do it after thinking about it. Internal for display system because I find it difficult to drill an acrylic sump. The sump should already come from the manufacturer pre-drilled.
 

Twitchy

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External for me... They always seem to last longer if you keep them nice and dry. I have an old little giant pump that I got used, it was on my old tank for 8 years, then a couple of years of storage, before It became my current mixing station pump. it just keeps going! I wipe it down once a year or so, and make sure nothing is leaking out of it.
I am running a Reeflo on the display system for about a year now, so far so good, although I have seen some crusties around the seal area, but I hear that is common.
 

1stNoel

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I have a pool, and I've seen my Heyward pump spring a nasty leak...so when I got into reefing, my immediate response was to go with an internal pump.
 

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  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 68 52.3%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 67 51.5%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 33 25.4%
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    Votes: 29 22.3%
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