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Ammonia=0What is your water parameters?
How old is the tank?
What's your source water?
What lights are you using and duration for photoperiod?
Opps, forgot that one.I'd say it's because of 0 N03. I would lower your light intensity some for a while.
What's your alkalinity at?
Is your po4 really that level or are you missing a leading 0?Ammonia=0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=0
Calcium=400
pH=8.0
Phos=.230
Salinity= 1.025
All param are as of tonight
Tank is 5 months old and fully cycled since early sept.
Water is from LFS using fritz reef salt mix (blue box)
Lights are current USA orbit marine pro 24" x2
Lights fade in at 8:15am to full power at 9am
Blues =100%
White=20%
Red=20%
Green=20%
Slow Fade to night mode @ 6pm with only blues at 20% lights completly out at midnight.
It.is really that. I am running phosguard right now. But he's been like this for about 2 weeks before the phos spike.Is your po4 really that level or are you missing a leading 0?
Def get that down. That can’t be helping.It.is really that. I am running phosguard right now. But he's been like this for about 2 weeks before the phos spike.
I don't even know what caused it to get so high. I only feed once a week and I do a 5gal water change every sunday. still can't get it down to where I want it which is around .03.Def get that down. That can’t be helping.
Use RODI and checked the outgoing TDS?I don't even know what caused it to get so high. I only feed once a week and I do a 5gal water change every sunday. still can't get it down to where I want it which is around .03.
still does he look OK or bad?
Yep, I use RODI for top off and what is TDS?Use RODI and checked the outgoing TDS?
Total dissolved solids, the quality of the water coming out of your RODI. If your TDS are high, this could result in high phosphates. Could also be your rock. Break a small piece off, crush it up and test for phosphates.Yep, I use RODI for top off and what is TDS?
No, you would need a meter. They are cheap. Might be worth getting. Also good to help tell you when to change the cartridges and filter.Ah, OK. what tests for TDS? I have one of those digital home water quality testers that are supposed to test that. is that the same thing?
My rocks look very green when under white light. but no large peices of algae. just looks like its on the surface
Cycling is one thing, the rock could still be leaching phosphates. The fact that your Phosphates are always high with low feeding and water changes leads me to believe there is a constant in your tank causing it. That would lead me to the rock or the water itself.Tank has been up since july, and finished cycling in sept.
I used dry rock from LFS.
If rocks, time is really the only cure, adding phosban can help for the remainder of time. Can put in a small bag in line so flow goes through it.Ok I get what your saying. so lets say it is the rocks, is there a way to fix that?
also I did use live sand when I setup the tank.
now all the other coral I have do look good, all full of color and out when the lights are on.
(hammers, duncan, frogspawn, blasto, acan, zoas, bubble trees,)
I was using API but did get a hanna Phosphorus ULR tester. it was showing over 200 at first, then put in a bag of phosguard and now it reads 75ppb (.230ppm converted)If rocks, time is really the only cure, adding phosban can help for the remainder of time. Can put in a small bag in line so flow goes through it.
Live sand should be OK.
Your corals look good but they are in the tank a relatively short amount of time. If the phosphates continue to be high you could see a gradual decline in others.
Also have you tested with diff kits? Sometimes you can also get a bad batch in testing kits which gives false readings.