Is there a way to cure Brown Jelly Disease

[Macdaddynick1]

K, just making sure. It works though, so get WORKING!!

Just found a thread about Melafix, the guy who's advocating it for BJD is actually dosing it into his reef.(not sure if i can post another forum's thread here) However, I'm just going to use it as a 4th step in my dipping procedure. I'll wait until tonight to see whether there is any more damage.

 

[menglish]

Good luck.
i had this in my tank and i lost a lot of my euphyllia corals, including a gorgeous gold hammer that i paid several hundred dollars for. I tried lots of different things, bayer dip, Revive dip, treatment in antibiotics. Not sure anything really worked for sure. I had a few colonies that were more that 20 heads, lost most of it between the disease and what i fragged out. What i would do is every time i noticed a head that looks bad, i would cut it off and dump it. It has been over a month now and i have not seen any more signs of it. The remaining corals looks great. Not sure if any of the treatment worked or if cutting off the sick heads was the reason i "cure" it. It sucks, i loss lots of really nice colonies, frogspawn, torch, hammers. It was sad to see these colonies die one head at a time.
My suggestion, as soon as you noticed a sick head, cut it off and remove it from the tank.

good luck

 

[Macdaddynick1]

UPDATE: did a second 5-minute dip, 10:1 Tank water : H2O2 . The coral is unhappy, the first 20:1 5 minute dip was much better on the coral overall. No updates as to the recession.

 

[1979fishgeek]

Feel your pain, going through the same thing at the moment this hobby can be soul destroying.

 

[1979fishgeek]

I am loosing the battle with bjd I am pretty sure the diease (or Protozoa) is in the water column now, I was considering buying a UV steriliser (72w) as I read that Protozoa is destroyed when exposed to UV. Although it did say has to be a high UV output and long contact time.

Does anyone run a UV and still have reoccurring BJD?

I guess there is not much to be done once the Protozoa infect our corals but can UV be used for prevention and possible control while it's in the water column?

 

[Elementalj]

I am loosing the battle with bjd I am pretty sure the diease (or Protozoa) is in the water column now, I was considering buying a UV steriliser (72w) as I read that Protozoa is destroyed when exposed to UV. Although it did say has to be a high UV output and long contact time.

Does anyone run a UV and still have reoccurring BJD?

I guess there is not much to be done once the Protozoa infect our corals but can UV be used for prevention and possible control while it's in the water column?

That's a great question.

 

[Macdaddynick1]

I am loosing the battle with bjd I am pretty sure the diease (or Protozoa) is in the water column now, I was considering buying a UV steriliser (72w) as I read that Protozoa is destroyed when exposed to UV. Although it did say has to be a high UV output and long contact time.

Does anyone run a UV and still have reoccurring BJD?

I guess there is not much to be done once the Protozoa infect our corals but can UV be used for prevention and possible control while it's in the water column?

Tell me about it , =/ h2o2 seem to help but, I dipped the Duncan in a too much of a concentrated solution and it actually ripped the holes in the tentacles, so be careful with it. If you decide to try.

 

[1979fishgeek]

I tried iodine dips, dettol dips twice daily and still lost them. Sometimes heads showing infection were completely dead in a hour, nothing left but BJD.

 

[revhtree]

Sorry for the loss...

 

[Stigigemla]

I have cured frogspawns. I just shake them in a bucket with aquarium water until most of the brown jelly is floating around. Then i hang them up 24 hours in front of a pump in so strong flow that the coral draw in the tentacles totally . Then back in their old place or maybe a place with a little more circulation. (Most of the brown yelly i had started in areas with low circulation).

 

[PSXerholic]

Well BJD is a disturbing pain that on the other side is a warning sign.

Here is what you do to cure it quickly since it can stop as quick as it comes ;-)
First at all it's a bacterial infection that affects corals that are not truly happy in your tank.
I did have this always in the past after feeding wild & fresh oyster, so I stopped using fresh oyster, lol.
Since it affected larger colonies that I could not get out of the tank I had to treat it on the tank.

Anyways, the worse things is to pour medications in, as we all know.
Since it's bacteria, it loves warm temps and hates cold temps.
So dropping temp down to 24/25 degree C is what typically reduces the growth time very effective. Just for a few days.
Then you keep siphoning the brown slime away 2 times a day with a lil RODI hose and trash that water, that stuff is easy to remove.
Don't blow it away with the power heads !!!!
Complicated Montis where you can't suck the jelly away for example, break off carefully and trash it.
When you do the siphoning a second time a day, just siphon along the new jelly line that grew back much slower due to lower temperature, you will see that corals start to recover, jelly stops growing or at least doesn't grow that fast anymore.
Siphon as much as you can and keep the lights off on the first day, dimmed on the second day and see if there is jelly coming back.

Typically I got rid of the jelly on the second or third day then.
However, the dosing and application of Microbacter 7 helps significantly to compete out this bacteria during this time, but don't overdose, just support.
Otherwise the nutrient levels will fluctuate and further stress the corals.
The Jelly is a sign that the corals are not really that healthy and their immune system is not ideal.
Try to keep all basic parameter in check and stable. Give it a good portion of live food such as Phyto and Oyster feast with some Selcon for some vitamins in the nighttime.

Cheers,
Andre

 

[Macdaddynick1]

RESOLVED FINAL UPDATE: So I must agree with Andre 100% my RODI was broken and none of my corals did so hot. The BJD started with the Duncan getting stung by one of my lobos. After that disease started spreading. 1 very important thing I've noticed is that flow played a huge role , another huge factor was the PH if my ph dipped below 7.8 BJD comes back with vengeance. The first time I stopped the disease the next morning I woke up my dincan is covered with the stingers from my huge chalice, (of course ). Here is how I stopped it from spreading everywhere. 1) I syphoned out all the BJD with a small tube 2) I removed 5 gallons of water from the tank replaced with with the fresh sw 3) i took out the Duncan from the tank 4) I used the water from the tank to keep the Duncan in while I'm dipping it. 5) the first dip hydrogen peroxide 1:10 or 1:20 for 10 minutes , it lifts the remaining BJD off of the coral, ( don't overdo this because ho2o literally rips the coral up if it's too concentrated 6) I used turkey vaster to blow off any dead tissue in the bucket 7) I dipped the coral in this seachem dip basically it's purely iodine, i dumped double the dosage , swirl water around 15 minutes dip , took it out 8) back into the holding container, 9) mixed solution of coral RX I think double the dose again, dipped in that for another 15 minutes 10) rinsed it very well in tank water, preferably not the water you used to hold the coral in while you were dipping for obvious reasons 11) painted the powerhead at the Duncan directly, raised my ph at night with Kalk. This procedure needs to be done usually only once but a few times may be required . Final advice , if you see brown jelly disease on the coral don't wait at all, dip immediately!!! It's super fast.

Back to business

 

[PSXerholic]

There you go, case closed.

Hope this helps many other in future!

Andre

 

[menglish]

This has been a nasty battle for me and I am loosing. I have been dealing with BJD for a while and it has cost me some very big and expensive hammers and torch, gold, peach, painted. I am sucker for the expensive one and i am loosing them to this disease. I have dipped in bayers, revive, erythromycin and they wont go away. Though i got rid of them for a few months, then one of my hammer fell on my RBT and was there all day before i notice it late that evening. They stung each other badly. The RBT ended up splitting and next thing i know, i am dealing with BJD again. Would love your take.
I clip the diseased head off as soon as i see them and i do water change ever 2 wks (15% on a 250G system). Pretty soon i will have no euphyllias left.

Help!!!!!!!!!

 

[Macdaddynick1]

This has been a nasty battle for me and I am loosing. I have been dealing with BJD for a while and it has cost me some very big and expensive hammers and torch, gold, peach, painted. I am sucker for the expensive one and i am loosing them to this disease. I have dipped in bayers, revive, erythromycin and they wont go away. Though i got rid of them for a few months, then one of my hammer fell on my RBT and was there all day before i notice it late that evening. They stung each other badly. The RBT ended up splitting and next thing i know, i am dealing with BJD again. Would love your take.
I clip the diseased head off as soon as i see them and i do water change ever 2 wks (15% on a 250G system). Pretty soon i will have no euphyllias left.

Help!!!!!!!!!

I'm not sure how euphileas take HO2O dip but a Duncan took it like a champ, you want to be kind of careful though may be go with 1:25 ration on a household peroxide. If you have some prized euphilias I would make sure to be careful in dipping them. But here are some things to try, 1 check your RO make sure it's good, if not replace filters, and do a large w/c, 2 check if your ph dips below 7.8 if it does set up a Kalk doser, because I saw bjd almost every time my ph dipped at night( or may BJD bacteria lowered the ph) 3 dip your corals in ho2o->iodine dip->coral RX -> and you can try melafix. Some people use some type of antibiotics but I didn't have the access to those. 4) up the flow in the tank, don't create a crazy flow where the flesh gets damaged by the skeleton (this will make things worse) , but make sure the water is moving through them 5) I've been thinking this for a while, but I think UV is actually beneficial. Just to keep water quality in check. I'm thinking of adding one on my tank. I mean those are all things I could think of. You really have nothing to lose with BJD so you might want to try dipping in all 4 of those dips. Also if you see a little big of BJD don't be lazy suck out the dead tissue of the coral with a tube , and do the dipping procedure. Andre already mentioned healthier coral can actually recover better, may be check what your nitrates are at and see if you could feed just a little bit. Good luck to you.

 

[menglish]

Thanks for your suggestions.
Here are a a few things;
pH always between 8.1-8.4
nitrate 10
in terms of water movement, i have 2 mp40, 1 gyre 150 and a korilla 1400.. I was thinking of another pump to get at some dead spots. I also run a UV on the system
RO is good, i think. 1 TDS coming out. Plus i do 15% wc every 2 weeks. I also run carbon and GFO.
As for dips, i cut off all the bj tissue yesterday and dip in Revive n antibiotics. I have never used H2O2, but next time i notice any Bj i will try that. Should i treat all my euphylias or only the ones with bj?

much thanks

 

[Macdaddynick1]

Thanks for your suggestions.
Here are a a few things;
pH always between 8.1-8.4
nitrate 10
in terms of water movement, i have 2 mp40, 1 gyre 150 and a korilla 1400.. I was thinking of another pump to get at some dead spots. I also run a UV on the system
RO is good, i think. 1 TDS coming out. Plus i do 15% wc every 2 weeks. I also run carbon and GFO.
As for dips, i cut off all the bj tissue yesterday and dip in Revive n antibiotics. I have never used H2O2, but next time i notice any Bj i will try that. Should i treat all my euphylias or only the ones with bj?

much thanks

I usually treat only the visibly infected corals. Do you run DI? If you do it's time to replace your DI. Just in case

 

[menglish]

Yep, I do run a DI resin. i can switch em out.
Many thanks for the suggestion

 

[maroun.c]

I'd make sure tonsyphon affected heads before moving coral out for any treatment. I also turn off the flow while siphoning to avoid releasing bid in tank. It's so aggressive that I usually don't even try to save affected heads, just clip and toss after syphoning. If coral is not attached I would do an iodine based dip hoping it can help but no exact science about it. Luckily have never had it in my last tank since around 5 years and the big difference to previous tanks is much more flow.

 

[Phuphinyol]

Hi I want to give you recommendation to remove the infected coral from your aquarium Jelly brown is one of disease that categorized protozoan bacteria it destroy tissue of coral and spreading it self rapidly. Surely if you founding that the coral look weak and brown again after treating it I recommend you to remove the reef and re run the water again some bacteria doesn’t disappear for many reason
1. Your skimmer fail to reduce it
2. The disease come from the coral you buy
So way to treat it is adding iodine for it but if it doesn’t help remove the coral that infected try to frag the healthy part out and leave the infected part you can see that when it stop spreading some of coral will release white wax which mean they are ill and then by 2-3 week it will start to regenerate it lost tissue
I hope you can save your coral ^-^