Hook a shop back up to the line and plug the other end... apply glue where the leak is and the shop vac should suck it into the pipe. I've fixed leaks using this method before.
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He can make his own with a repair slip coupling. The correct ones don’t have the ring inside to bottom out the pipe. Cut it into two rings and you get two for $0.96. If you can only find the regular couplings with the little raised ring inside, just cut either side of the ring.YOu didn't post pics but take a look at these.
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I tried that flex seal for a crack around the drain in my shower, the floor flexed too much. I fixed it with a shower patch kit and a piece of PVC for a drain sleeve sealed in place with bondo. Leaks gone.Well, if you had tried flex paste ......
Oh yeah ..... used to dry fit all the plumbing. Really good way to forget to weld a joint.Done that too.....
Fired up the return, and very quickly had 30G of water everywhere.
Have to watch using that method since the fumes are highly flammable if the shop vac motor generates a spark.Hook a shop back up to the line and plug the other end... apply glue where the leak is and the shop vac should suck it into the pipe. I've fixed leaks using this method before.
I added some more solvent around the pipes. Letting it cure now. If that doesn't fix it then I'll see about cutting it out tomorrow and redoing..
It is on my return line. I just turned it back on after about 2 hours of cure so far no leaks but time will tell..Just FYI- I’ve had ok success with this if the pipe was gravity flowing, even a full siphon, but never if the pipe was pressurized.
2 times with drains worked, 1 on an independent manifold on the pressured side didn’t. So not many ‘sample numbers’ but worth a shot before cutting it out