Is this clam a gonner?

[JoJosReef]

Thanks a lot. Yes it is a maxima. I will check out the book you recommended. It was on a rock, but you can’t see it because my goby has been burying that rock for some reason.

I didn’t realize clams needed so much light. With my MH lighting, I have often ended up frying anything other than SPS in the upper half of the tank.

I have a good PAR map of the tank. What is a good target for maxima clams? They are such cool creatures and I’d really like to keep one if I can ensure its wellbeing.

You will get varied responses on this forum. In the wild, they are getting well over 1000 PAR. Here's an example of people fighting about PAR reqs for a maxima:

Par rating?

Does it take a long time for it to grab hold if it’s happy? It's all depend on each clam, my small maxi anchored to the rock overnight and completely secure to that spot like super glue within a week. While my 2 Derasa stopped walk around but they do not anchored to anything LOL All the Maxis...

www.reef2reef.com

I think giving it the maximum amount of light you can is best for the clam. I doubt you can give it more than it can handle.

 

[OrionN]

Consider the fact that both Crocea and Maxima are at the surface in the wild, some got exposed to the air in low tide, it is highly unlikely that we can overlight them. I would not blasted them with light after they have been in low light for a while. Of course they can be found a little deeper than the first few feet of water so they likely can adapt to lower light level.

 

[minus9]

I agree with the others here, the clam hasn't grown much for a while. I don't think I would lay blame on one parameter, but more like the whole system isn't as healthy as it should be. I'm not trying to pour salt on the wound, but judging by the FTS you provided, the tank looks like it needs some work. I would consider some light carbon dosing to help turn things around, while manually going after the algae. The nutrients that you measure are exactly (according to our test kits) what's in the system, there are no "extra" nutrients bound up in the algae, those nutrients have been used up and there's no secret, hidden amount left over. You remove the algae, you remove those nutrients. I would get the tank into shape first, then maybe try another clam. I would also suggest James Fatherree's book on clams to help guide you.
I would consider some tuxedo urchins and some snails to help with the algae long term.

 

[Formulator]

I agree with the others here, the clam hasn't grown much for a while. I don't think I would lay blame on one parameter, but more like the whole system isn't as healthy as it should be. I'm not trying to pour salt on the wound, but judging by the FTS you provided, the tank looks like it needs some work. I would consider some light carbon dosing to help turn things around, while manually going after the algae. The nutrients that you measure are exactly (according to our test kits) what's in the system, there are no "extra" nutrients bound up in the algae, those nutrients have been used up and there's no secret, hidden amount left over. You remove the algae, you remove those nutrients. I would get the tank into shape first, then maybe try another clam. I would also suggest James Fatherree's book on clams to help guide you.
I would consider some tuxedo urchins and some snails to help with the algae long term.

Thanks for the feedback. I think I have a GHA problem, but other than that the system is healthy and parameters are in pretty good shape. I don’t quite understand your suggestion for carbon dosing since my tank is already nitrate limited. Can you please elaborate on what that would do for me? Carbon dosing isn’t going to do anything for my phosphate and I don’t really want to make nitrate dosing a long term requirement, which based on my past experience with carbon dosing years ago, will end up being the case. Not saying there is anything wrong with ULNS tanks, but its not a method I want to pursue at this point. I added a pin cushion urchin last week and have a good population of breeding trochus snails in there already. I will be adding some turbo snails to the algae army as well.

 

[minus9]

Thanks for the feedback. I think I have a GHA problem, but other than that the system is healthy and parameters are in pretty good shape. I don’t quite understand your suggestion for carbon dosing since my tank is already nitrate limited. Can you please elaborate on what that would do for me? Carbon dosing isn’t going to do anything for my phosphate and I don’t really want to make nitrate dosing a long term requirement, which based on my past experience with carbon dosing years ago, will end up being the case. Not saying there is anything wrong with ULNS tanks, but its not a method I want to pursue at this point. I added a pin cushion urchin last week and have a good population of breeding trochus snails in there already. I will be adding some turbo snails to the algae army as well.

The original idea being carbon dosing wasn’t nutrient control, that was an added bonus. It was to supply the tank/system with a carbon source to fuel beneficial bacteria for the corals, etc. Also, you can have zero nutrients and still have an algae problem, as algae is really good at life and can utilize other means for growth, trace elements, silicates, etc. Tropic Marin makes a product that adds both N & P while “feeding” the good stuff. Ammonium bicarbonate is a much more efficient way of introducing nitrogen that goes straight to the source, unlike sodium nitrate. My idea of carbon dosing isn’t for nutrients, it’s for feeding the corals/bacteria and you don’t need to do a lot to see the benefits. This is also an idea or something to consider and not a must. Older tanks can burn through their carbon source and create the conditions we call, old tank syndrome. I think some water changes and manual removal of the GHA will take you in the right direction, while getting the herbivores to do some work too.

 

[edmon]

The original idea being carbon dosing wasn’t nutrient control, that was an added bonus. It was to supply the tank/system with a carbon source to fuel beneficial bacteria for the corals, etc. Also, you can have zero nutrients and still have an algae problem, as algae is really good at life and can utilize other means for growth, trace elements, silicates, etc. Tropic Marin makes a product that adds both N & P while “feeding” the good stuff. Ammonium bicarbonate is a much more efficient way of introducing nitrogen that goes straight to the source, unlike sodium nitrate. My idea of carbon dosing isn’t for nutrients, it’s for feeding the corals/bacteria and you don’t need to do a lot to see the benefits. This is also an idea or something to consider and not a must. Older tanks can burn through their carbon source and create the conditions we call, old tank syndrome. I think some water changes and manual removal of the GHA will take you in the right direction, while getting the herbivores to do some work too.

Is the Tropic Marin product NP Bacto Balance?

 

[Formulator]

The original idea being carbon dosing wasn’t nutrient control, that was an added bonus. It was to supply the tank/system with a carbon source to fuel beneficial bacteria for the corals, etc. Also, you can have zero nutrients and still have an algae problem, as algae is really good at life and can utilize other means for growth, trace elements, silicates, etc. Tropic Marin makes a product that adds both N & P while “feeding” the good stuff. Ammonium bicarbonate is a much more efficient way of introducing nitrogen that goes straight to the source, unlike sodium nitrate. My idea of carbon dosing isn’t for nutrients, it’s for feeding the corals/bacteria and you don’t need to do a lot to see the benefits. This is also an idea or something to consider and not a must. Older tanks can burn through their carbon source and create the conditions we call, old tank syndrome. I think some water changes and manual removal of the GHA will take you in the right direction, while getting the herbivores to do some work too.

Thank you for the great explanation. I have been reminded twice in the last week or so of the additional benefits that come with carbon dosing as a source of coral nutrition.

I have been putting off doing water changes because I am doing reef moonshiners and just made a correction to all the trace elements, which would be potentially disturbed by water change. I do have elevated silicates per my last ICP, so it is probably time to address that issue and go ahead with some water changes.

I do have unused pump heads on my dosing pump, so I might consider the carbon dosing after all.

 

[minus9]

Is the Tropic Marin product NP Bacto Balance?

Depending on the nutrients, mainly paying attention to PO4, but either Bacto Balance or Plus NP. If you’re nitrogen deficient, then pulse dosing ammonium bicarbonate or chloride will help.

 

[minus9]

Thank you for the great explanation. I have been reminded twice in the last week or so of the additional benefits that come with carbon dosing as a source of coral nutrition.

I have been putting off doing water changes because I am doing reef moonshiners and just made a correction to all the trace elements, which would be potentially disturbed by water change. I do have elevated silicates per my last ICP, so it is probably time to address that issue and go ahead with some water changes.

I do have unused pump heads on my dosing pump, so I might consider the carbon dosing after all.

I kind of follow the moonshine method, but I don’t leave out the fundamentals/basics, because no amount of trace element dosing will make up for poor husbandry (and I’m not implying that directly to you, but as a general statement). I would get things in order first, then proceed with trace elements. Remember, algae can utilize trace elements and nutrients faster than corals, so it’s a delicate balance of getting the corals the things they need and giving the algae some place else to grow that’s not in the display or a healthy herbivore crew to keep it at bay.

 

[Formulator]

I kind of follow the moonshine method, but I don’t leave out the fundamentals/basics, because no amount of trace element dosing will make up for poor husbandry (and I’m not implying that directly to you, but as a general statement). I would get things in order first, then proceed with trace elements. Remember, algae can utilize trace elements and nutrients faster than corals, so it’s a delicate balance of getting the corals the things they need and giving the algae some place else to grow that’s not in the display or a healthy herbivore crew to keep it at bay.

Thanks. Fair points. I did start up a refugium a couple weeks ago. I think I’m doing all the right things, just a slow process. So frustrating considering this is what my tank looked like a few years ago before I neglected it and killed everything…