Is this Ich on my Copperband ???

[Andrew Schubert]

I ran mine at 1.09. if it goes over that you have to start over. Put an air stone in the tank to keep enough oxygen in the tank for the fish. What I did was a week of PraziPro then started hyposalinity. Not sure of it's safe to do both at the same time. I didn't want to risk it, so I did PraziPro first, then moved to hyposalinity. When. Your done slowly raise the salinity back up to normal over a week before transfering back to DT. FYI - i did this method on a Purple tang, powder blue tang, and copperband butterfly without issues.

 

[Quovadis Green]

I ran mine at 1.09. if it goes over that you have to start over. Put an air stone in the tank to keep enough oxygen in the tank for the fish. What I did was a week of PraziPro then started hyposalinity. Not sure of it's safe to do both at the same time. I didn't want to risk it, so I did PraziPro first, then moved to hyposalinity. When. Your done slowly raise the salinity back up to normal over a week before transfering back to DT. FYI - i did this method on a Purple tang, powder blue tang, and copperband butterfly without issues.

Okay I’m new to this hobby so this might sound like a stupid question but if I set up QT tank how big should it be how many fish should I QT at a time also how long should the QT tank be up and going before I put fish in and lastly if I buy the water premixed how do I drop the salt level

 

[Andrew Schubert]

I'd look into an RODI unit as it'll be cheaper an easier on u in the long run. In the meantime the only way to lower the salinity would be to mix your salt water with pure RODI water. You'll need a refractometer to measure the salinity of the water. Don't use those gravity things from PetSmart as they are not accurate enough. You'll want a refractometer to make sure the salinity is right. If it's off a little it would either be too high and do nothing, or too low and kill the fish. I paid somewhere around $30 for mine.

Best bet is to add some filter material from a DT to help the cycle process of the QT. But unfortunately a lot of times that is the downside to QT. You have to really monitor ammonia and do water changes to keep everything safe. It was a pain in the but, but I did a 50percent water chage almost daily in my 20 gallon QT to keep my ammonia in check. Best bet getting a sechem ammonia badge as they r very sensitive and detech only free ammonia. I'd you noadd something like ammonia lock to the tank it binds the ammonia to make it safe. But typical teat don't k ow the difference between the two types of ammonia. The badge does however. Free swimming ammonia is what you have to worry about. I'd also add Bio Spira to help with the initial bacteria.

If your willing to wait to cycle the QT the more the merrier I suppose[emoji3]. But QT get run all the time without proper bacteria. Some meds actual kill it off. So it's not uncommon for a QT to be uncycled. Just gotta watch it like a hawk.

As for size, mine is a 20 gallon. I wish I would've gotten a 25 though. Id say 20 is your min size. The bigger the better. I've had 3 fish in it at once.

The less fish the easier it is to maintain. Esp if it isn't cycled. Also be very cautious to only feed what he'll eat. All that will add to ammonia spikes.

Ive only been in the only 5 months. But have prob put 200plus hours in reading and research. So you'll get it. I'm still learning new things every day. Currently reading a 500 page book about corals[emoji3]. Wife thinks I'm crazy...lol

 

[Andrew Schubert]

I'd look into an RODI unit as it'll be cheaper an easier on u in the long run. In the meantime the only way to lower the salinity would be to mix your salt water with pure RODI water. You'll need a refractometer to measure the salinity of the water. Don't use those gravity things from PetSmart as they are not accurate enough. You'll want a refractometer to make sure the salinity is right. If it's off a little it would either be too high and do nothing, or too low and kill the fish. I paid somewhere around $30 for mine.

Best bet is to add some filter material from a DT to help the cycle process of the QT. But unfortunately a lot of times that is the downside to QT. You have to really monitor ammonia and do water changes to keep everything safe. It was a pain in the but, but I did a 50percent water chage almost daily in my 20 gallon QT to keep my ammonia in check. Best bet getting a sechem ammonia badge as they r very sensitive and detech only free ammonia. I'd you noadd something like ammonia lock to the tank it binds the ammonia to make it safe. But typical teat don't k ow the difference between the two types of ammonia. The badge does however. Free swimming ammonia is what you have to worry about. I'd also add Bio Spira to help with the initial bacteria.

If your willing to wait to cycle the QT the more the merrier I suppose[emoji3]. But QT get run all the time without proper bacteria. Some meds actual kill it off. So it's not uncommon for a QT to be uncycled. Just gotta watch it like a hawk.

As for size, mine is a 20 gallon. I wish I would've gotten a 25 though. Id say 20 is your min size. The bigger the better. I've had 3 fish in it at once.

The less fish the easier it is to maintain. Esp if it isn't cycled. Also be very cautious to only feed what he'll eat. All that will add to ammonia spikes.

Ive only been in the only 5 months. But have prob put 200plus hours in reading and research. So you'll get it. I'm still learning new things every day. Currently reading a 500 page book about corals[emoji3]. Wife thinks I'm crazy...lol

Wow...typos. thats what I get typing on phone.


This "I'd you noadd something like ammonia lock to the tank it binds the ammonia to make it safe. But typical teat don't k ow the difference between the two types of ammonia."

Should say...

If you add something like ammonia lock to the tank it binds the ammonia to make it safe. But typical test kits don't know the difference between the two types of ammonia.

 

[RtomKinMad]

Well unfortunately I’ve lost all of my livestock in my 75 gallon tank. Only thing still alive is a damsel I put in the tank during the cycle process. This is a list of everything I lost. Kinda Don’t know what to do I didn’t have a Hospital tank set up so I treated the Entire Display Tank so I know I can never add invertebrates or coral which is okay because I was having a 220 Gallon Built but I’m scared because I just lost everything. Everyone says let tank go fallow for 76 days but here is my question what meds can I treat tank with even after this as a preventative measure weekly or daily so that ich or velvet never stand a chance again. Since I’ve already used the copper power can anyone tell me what they use on fish in there QT tank and maybe I can just let tank go fallow and the always dose the display tank with meds this was heartbreaking everyday to wake up to dead fish including my Puffer who I got the hand feed and has the biggest personality


2 Small Yellow Tangs
1 Small Blue Hippo
1 Small Powder Blue Tang
2 Small Niger Triggers
1 Medium Blue Jaw trigger
1 Porcupine Puffer
6 Clown Fish

You are setting up a 220gal? What are your plans for the 75gal.? There are some really good threads on here from Humblefish and others about quarantine processes. I’m so sorry about your fish. I’ve been doing for 5 yrs and have lost too many fish esp when we first started. Breaks my heart. There are so much good information on here I wish I had found years before. With your losses I wonder if you had velvet instead of ich? It’s much more agressive. Keep the damsel. It will help keep the 75 cycled for now until you decide what to do with it. Could the 75 tank be your quarantine for the 220?

 

[Andrew Schubert]

You are setting up a 220gal? What are your plans for the 75gal.? There are some really good threads on here from Humblefish and others about quarantine processes. I’m so sorry about your fish. I’ve been doing for 5 yrs and have lost too many fish esp when we first started. Breaks my heart. There are so much good information on here I wish I had found years before. With your losses I wonder if you had velvet instead of ich? It’s much more agressive. Keep the damsel. It will help keep the 75 cycled for now until you decide what to do with it. Could the 75 tank be your quarantine for the 220?

I wish my damsel would just die..lol. he's a holy tear. Constantly digging in the sand exposing the glass bottom and chasing my tangs. He bites me every time I put my hand in the tank. ... RtomKinMad did have velvet. He kind of hijack my post (that's ok), which was about my copperband butterfly.

 

[cmcoker]

Look into hyposalinity. I never heard of it until I was introduced to it for my last QT process. You lower the salinity significantly for a month that kills of any ich, but keeps the fish safe. Better then feeding copper which is actually poison to the fish. I would also get PraziPro Which is a safe need for treating flukes. Besides that, tell your time adding the fish back. Only add one or two at a time.

The poster you responded to had Velvet. Hyposalinity does not treat velvet, its even iffy for Ich. Would not recommend that as treatment.

 

[Andrew Schubert]

The poster you responded to had Velvet. Hyposalinity does not treat velvet, its even iffy for Ich. Would not recommend that as treatment.

I didnt say hypo did treat velvet. He asked recommendations for QT in the future. I would do my research, most people then not recommended hypo over copper from my experience for treating ich (unless it's an emergency situation). Plus some fish like flame angels don't do well with copper at all. Only people I've talked to who failed with hypo was those that failed to do it correctly (letting salinity get too high) or not giving it enough time in the first place).

 

[cmcoker]

Well unfortunately I’ve lost all of my livestock in my 75 gallon tank. Only thing still alive is a damsel I put in the tank during the cycle process. This is a list of everything I lost. Kinda Don’t know what to do I didn’t have a Hospital tank set up so I treated the Entire Display Tank so I know I can never add invertebrates or coral which is okay because I was having a 220 Gallon Built but I’m scared because I just lost everything. Everyone says let tank go fallow for 76 days but here is my question what meds can I treat tank with even after this as a preventative measure weekly or daily so that ich or velvet never stand a chance again. Since I’ve already used the copper power can anyone tell me what they use on fish in there QT tank and maybe I can just let tank go fallow and the always dose the display tank with meds this was heartbreaking everyday to wake up to dead fish including my Puffer who I got the hand feed and has the biggest personality


2 Small Yellow Tangs
1 Small Blue Hippo
1 Small Powder Blue Tang
2 Small Niger Triggers
1 Medium Blue Jaw trigger
1 Porcupine Puffer
6 Clown Fish

The damsel needs to still be treated with Copper. You were dealing with Velvet, which hyposalinity does not work for. The damsel will be a carrier until treated and any fish you add after will be exposed to velvet.
The damsel can be removed to a hospital tank and treated and the tank should be left empty of fish for 76 days and no meds would be needed to eradicate ich and velvet.

Please take a look at the stickies on fish disease at the top of this subforum. As far as number of fish, size of quarantine etc. There is a sticky that recommends which type of treatment should be done on different types of fish. If you are planning tangs, a 40g would be the minimum for quarantine. If smaller fish, a couple at a time a smaller quarantine may be sufficient.

Maybe start a new thread about it, and link here to clean up this thread as it's a bit confusing who is having what problem/question.

Happy reefing

 

[Andrew Schubert]

The damsel needs to still be treated with Copper. You were dealing with Velvet, which hyposalinity does not work for. The damsel will be a carrier until treated and any fish you add after will be exposed to velvet.
The damsel can be removed to a hospital tank and treated and the tank should be left empty of fish for 76 days and no meds would be needed to eradicate ich and velvet.

Please take a look at the stickies on fish disease at the top of this subforum. As far as number of fish, size of quarantine etc. There is a sticky that recommends which type of treatment should be done on different types of fish. If you are planning tangs, a 40g would be the minimum for quarantine. If smaller fish, a couple at a time a smaller quarantine may be sufficient.

Maybe start a new thread about it, and link here to clean up this thread as it's a bit confusing who is having what problem/question.

Happy reefing

[emoji106]To complete my concern my butterfly is already looking a lot better. Some of the lympho has already fallen off.

 

[cmcoker]

I didnt say hypo did treat velvet. He asked recommendations for QT in the future. I would do my research, most people then not recommended hypo over copper from my experience for treating ich (unless it's an emergency situation). Plus some fish like flame angels don't do well with copper at all. Only people I've talked to who failed with hypo was those that failed to do it correctly (letting salinity get too high) or not giving it enough time in the first place).

Since velvet is rampant, and has been, I'd say most here do not recommend hypo or treating only for ich. Take a look at the stickies on this subforum, different fish species have different meds recommended, copper vs Chloroquine.

 

[RtomKinMad]

I wish my damsel would just die..lol. he's a holy tear. Constantly digging in the sand exposing the glass bottom and chasing my tangs. He bites me every time I put my hand in the tank. ... RtomKinMad did have velvet. He kind of hijack my post (that's ok), which was about my copperband butterfly.

Poor damsel!

 

[RtomKinMad]

[emoji106]To complete my concern my butterfly is already looking a lot better. Some of the lympho has already fallen off.

Awesome! We went to LFS in Friday and the owner had to beautiful CBB both eating frozen food already and both had lymph. It seems this is very common. I’m glad your is getting better and the hypo worked for you. I’ve never tried but have had good luck with copper except my porcupine puffer did not do well in copper didn’t eat much and was very lethargic in copper. But I’ve learned my lessons and quarantine everything now. Currently have three fish in 40gal quarantine with copper. Watched them for theee days and noticed ick on a dogface and added copper when I saw this. Also dipped when they came home before going into quarantine. Well hopefully we all learn something and help each other take good care of these fish.