Is this normal DI resin depletion?
- Thread starter Squadir
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tom reilly
Active Member
My unit came with an inline valve to flush the membrane. I left in wrong position for 8 hours and results were what you have. Replaced resin and learned lesson.
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
You want it after the RO membrane. Depending on your waste ratio, if you did it before you would need 20 gallons aerated to make 5. Aerate after the RO membrane and then pass it through the DI as the final step.
OP
OP
Squadir
Active Member
will gravity feed be enough for the aerated water to pass through the DI stage or will need a pump?
Velcro
2500 Club Member
Gravity feed + aqualifter pump is good enough for me.
About the dye wearing off, I don't believe it. I've regenerated some resin many times and the change blue color is very minimal once it's recharged from the original blue.
CO2 used to be thought of as only a well water issue, but I have TONS of it in my city water. I went from 100 gallons per DI refill to 1000+.
About the dye wearing off, I don't believe it. I've regenerated some resin many times and the change blue color is very minimal once it's recharged from the original blue.
CO2 used to be thought of as only a well water issue, but I have TONS of it in my city water. I went from 100 gallons per DI refill to 1000+.
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
Yep.
blkhwkz
Well-Known Member
I have the Spectrapure 90GPD with 99% rejection RO membrane and booster pump. I just talked to Spectrapure at MACNA about my issues, I get about 150 gallons out of a SuperDI cartridge. With the new tank and my existing ones I will be doing at least 132 gallons of water changes a month, plus keeping DI water on hand I will be going through over 1 DI resin per month. Coming out of the tap is about 225 TDS and coming out of the RO membrane is 3. CO2 is at 8. I currently have the .5 micron sediment and the .5 micron carbon. Jeremy suggested I try the Pentek chloramine remover 1 micron carbon filter to see if that helps. I did test the tap water for ammonia and there was none, need to call the city water department and see if they are using chloramines or not.
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
You could take your tap water to a lab for a quick screen. They're cheap. It cost me under $100.
OP
OP
Squadir
Active Member
Thanks alot guys!!!!! I made my degasification chamber and installed it, put in a new DI cartridge and boom!!! 90-100 gallons made so far and resin looks almost new still!!!! woot woot!! I'm really glad this worked.
this place is the best for advice!!
this place is the best for advice!!
SVP
Active Member
I have the spectrapure 90gpd unit. What helps mine and it's in the manual you get with the unit is I flush it for about 5 minutes before every use and another 3/5minutes after I get done with it. It helps flush out some of the particles that get filtered. My tds input is 250ppm after ro 1 or 2 tds and 0 tds after di unit. I have already ran 500 gallons I have a booster pump and I am at 60 psi and still have those numbers. Another thing that makes a difference is temperature of the water. Optimum temp is 75/79 degrees.
Actually the optimum temperature water is cold, the colder the better. 77 degrees is just a number they use in the industry to test one manufacturers membranes against another. It is a standard.
Colder water actually treats better since it is more dense or less viscous. Warmer water is more fluid so passes through the membrane easier carrying more dissolved solids along with it. The only advantage to warmer water is I makes water faster but I much prefer cold water and a booster pump to overcome the lower GPD due to the temperature.
Colder water actually treats better since it is more dense or less viscous. Warmer water is more fluid so passes through the membrane easier carrying more dissolved solids along with it. The only advantage to warmer water is I makes water faster but I much prefer cold water and a booster pump to overcome the lower GPD due to the temperature.
SVP
Active Member
So in your opinion what is the optimum water temperature? 75/79 is pretty easy to get to, this definitely depends upon the season and where youl live. I live in Florida really hot in summer and beautiful in so called winter down here. Whereas if you live in the northern states and it is completely different.
In Phoenix mine out of the tap is 56-58 at times and I get the best rejection rate when it is that cold. When it gets up in the 70s and is more fluid the membrane does not work as well. I will take the colder water and a booster to overcome the temperature any day.
People confuse the standard membrane test temperature used by the manufacturers (25C, or 77F) with "optimum" temperature.
There really is no "optimum" temperature. Best just to understand what temperature does to the membrane performance and modify your situation/system accordingly.
Rejection increases (more pure RO water) at lower temperature
And assuming you hold the pressure steady,
Russ
There really is no "optimum" temperature. Best just to understand what temperature does to the membrane performance and modify your situation/system accordingly.
Rejection increases (more pure RO water) at lower temperature
And assuming you hold the pressure steady,
Speed of production goes down at lower temperatures
Recovery goes down (more waste water) at lower temperatures
Recovery goes down (more waste water) at lower temperatures
Russ
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