Is this PVC OK for Reef tank?

[Bhorsky]

Hey all, PVC SCH 40 is a lot more expensive where I am compared to this pipe, I am just wondering if this would work for my return plumbing? It says it's rated for 200 psi and potable water. As you can see its ~$9 for 10ft vs $40+ for Sch40.

 

[KrisReef]

Thin PVC is much more likely to break or crack over time from vibrations and stress, ime. Twenty years ago I replaced the schedule 40 PVC water supply line to my home to schedule 80 because I didn't want to see how long it would take before it failed. The money you save now will pale in comparison to the funds you spend cleaning up a leak or replacing lost livestock that dies when the tank runs dry.

Coincidentally, I have been posting on a PVC failure thread,
Check it out.

And I hate spending extra money, but have learned that some things are worth it.

 

[Bhorsky]

Thin PVC is much more likely to break or crack over time from vibrations and stress, ime. Twenty years ago I replaced the schedule 40 PVC water supply line to my home to schedule 80 because I didn't want to see how long it would take before it failed. The money you save now will pale in comparison to the funds you spend cleaning up a leak or replacing lost livestock that dies when the tank runs dry.

Coincidentally, I have been posting on a PVC failure thread,
Check it out.

And I hate spending extra money, but have learned that some things are worth it.

True, I'm currently using just a flex hose. Maybe I will go with the sch40.

 

[KrisReef]

True, I'm currently using just a flex hose. Maybe I will go with the sch40.

I stopped at the rest stop at Camp Pendleton on I5 south and found a 6 foot section of 1" PVC that someone had lost or tossed on the lawn there. I brought it home and used a section to plumb a tank I was moving in my garage. I hate spending extra money. :cool:

 

[malacoda]

Most home aquarium systems aren't under nearly as much pressure ... or vibration/stress (from water hammers, etc.) ... as home plumbing is. Because most of our systems don't have any closed lines that are under pressure.

So, as long as proper primers and glues are used I doubt you'll have a failure (e.g. AFAIK, normal PVC primer does not work well on ABS bulkheads, etc.). Especially since none of the lines in your system should experience anywhere near 200 psi.

The MUCH more likely problem you could run into is lack of fittings.

If that PVC turf irrigation pipe doesn't have the same sizing system as sched 40 and sched 80 you'll probably have a tough time trying to piece your plumbing runs together ... and an even tougher time trying to connect pumps and equipment to it. It may require a lot of jerry rigging.

 

[TX_REEF]

Where are you shopping that 10' of schedule 40 PVC costs $40?? any big box store should be way cheaper

 

[KrisReef]

Where are you shopping that 10' of schedule 40 PVC costs $40?? any big box store should be way cheaper

Canada.

 

[Bhorsky]

Most home aquarium systems aren't under nearly as much pressure ... or vibration/stress (from water hammers, etc.) ... as home plumbing is. Because most of our systems don't have any closed lines that are under pressure.

So, as long as proper primers and glues are used I doubt you'll have a failure (e.g. AFAIK, normal PVC primer does not work well on ABS bulkheads, etc.). Especially since none of the lines in your system should experience anywhere near 200 psi.

The MUCH more likely problem you could run into is lack of fittings.

If that PVC turf irrigation pipe doesn't have the same sizing system as sched 40 and sched 80 you'll probably have a tough time trying to piece your plumbing runs together ... and an even tougher time trying to connect pumps and equipment to it. It may require a lot of jerry rigging.

I never even thought of this!

 

[Bhorsky]

Canada.

Canada my friend where we get F*cked for all things Reefing. I can't even find 1" sch 40 in my home depots or ronas near me at all. Period. Only 3/4, 1.5, 2, etc.

 

[Reefering1]

Most home aquarium systems aren't under nearly as much pressure ... or vibration/stress (from water hammers, etc.) ... as home plumbing is. Because most of our systems don't have any closed lines that are under pressure.

So, as long as proper primers and glues are used I doubt you'll have a failure (e.g. AFAIK, normal PVC primer does not work well on ABS bulkheads, etc.). Especially since none of the lines in your system should experience anywhere near 200 psi.

The MUCH more likely problem you could run into is lack of fittings.

If that PVC turf irrigation pipe doesn't have the same sizing system as sched 40 and sched 80 you'll probably have a tough time trying to piece your plumbing runs together ... and an even tougher time trying to connect pumps and equipment to it. It may require a lot of jerry rigging.

But at the same time, the real risk is not of it breaking under pressure. It would happen while you're working on the tank and bump a pipe and it cracks/ breaks because the wall thickness is half that of sch40

 

[FUNGI]

I wouldnt use thin wall PVC......

 

[MnFish1]

No comment on the thickness issue - some PVC (and apologies I don't remember which type) can contain tin. I would make sure this is not an issue.

 

[Bhorsky]

No comment on the thickness issue - some PVC (and apologies I don't remember which type) can contain tin. I would make sure this is not an issue.

Oh really? I've never heard of this. I will make sure, thank you!

 

[MnFish1]

Oh really? I've never heard of this. I will make sure, thank you!

Check out this thread from a while ago. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/schedule-40-pvc-electrical-conduit.1039976/#post-12354284

 

[Bhorsky]

Check out this thread from a while ago. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/schedule-40-pvc-electrical-conduit.1039976/#post-12354284

I do know the one I am looking at is potable, so it shouldn't contain any contaminations. But I may just go with sch40 anyways.

 

[malacoda]

But at the same time, the real risk is not of it breaking under pressure. It would happen while you're working on the tank and bump a pipe and it cracks/ breaks because the wall thickness is half that of sch40

I know something like that happening can be a big concern ... but it's based on fear and worry rather than math or logic...

You'd have to weigh as much as the Hulk to crack or break a pvc pipe rated for 200 psi simply by bumping or leaning on it. Unless ... the joints haven't been primed/glued properly. It'd be far more likely that a pump outlet or bulkhead would get damaged by a severe push on a pipe than the pipe itself cracking or breaking ... because they're 'loose' joints a the end of a lever arm.

I have nothing against Sch 40 or 80. I use it all the time. Because of its availability and commonality. But it is still akin to building an M1 Abrams tank when all you need is a Honda Civic.

Kind of like everyone building stands with of 2 x 4 frames when a simple plywood box-frame cabinet is just as strong, weighs less, and leaves more room for equipment inside the cabinet...

But 2x4s are more common, easier to work with, and give people an extra sense of security. So they are the 'norm' despite often being overkill.

Sorry to derail the thread OP, just want to make sure people realize their options aren't always as limited as they may seem.

That said, use what's most available to you and you'll have the easiest time 'connecting' together ... whether it be schd 40, 80, flexible tubing, or the stuff you originally asked about.

Just make sure it's potable/chemically safe.

 

[Bhorsky]

I know something like that happening can be a big concern ... but it's based on fear and worry rather than math or logic...

You'd have to weigh as much as the Hulk to crack or break a pvc pipe rated for 200 psi simply by bumping or leaning on it. Unless ... the joints haven't been primed/glued properly. It'd be far more likely that a pump outlet or bulkhead would get damaged by a severe push on a pipe than the pipe itself cracking or breaking ... because they're 'loose' joints a the end of a lever arm.

I have nothing against Sch 40 or 80. I use it all the time. Because of its availability and commonality. But it is still akin to building an M1 Abrams tank when all you need is a Honda Civic.

Kind of like everyone building stands with of 2 x 4 frames when a simple plywood box-frame cabinet is just as strong, weighs less, and leaves more room for equipment inside the cabinet...

But 2x4s are more common, easier to work with, and give people an extra sense of security. So they are the 'norm' despite often being overkill.

Sorry to derail the thread OP, just want to make sure people realize their options aren't always as limited as they may seem.

That said, use what's most available to you and you'll have the easiest time 'connecting' together ... whether it be schd 40, 80, flexible tubing, or the stuff you originally asked about.

Just make sure it's potable/chemically safe.

Really appreciate your input. If the original stuff I asked about fits normal fittings, and is potable, I'll probably go with it to try it out. It's 4x cheaper. If not, sch40 it is.

 

[787will]

I've used thin walled PVC a bunch of times on my tanks over the years, never had an issue with it.

 

[Dburr1014]

No comment on the thickness issue - some PVC (and apologies I don't remember which type) can contain tin. I would make sure this is not an issue.

If I remember right, tin is the by-product making pvc. So it's in all of it, isn't it?

 

[Dburr1014]

Really appreciate your input. If the original stuff I asked about fits normal fittings, and is potable, I'll probably go with it to try it out. It's 4x cheaper. If not, sch40 it is.

Fittings are the same.
I have used it because I had some laying around. It was good for the 6+ years on my plumbing.