Thanks I really appreciate your input. About 2 years ago I had a system crash due to not stabilizing alk but that has since been under control since I got my trident. I already rented the PAR meter so I guess I can really dial it in. I have 12 fish in my system but I was only feeding them 2 cubes every other day because I had some hair algae I was trying to get under control. It is now gone. I also ordered hanna test kits for the nitrates and phosphates. The nems are in the same spot since I put them in the tank and I don't have any corals on that side. One of them moved once but up the glass after it split. All the mushrooms are isolated on an island on their own rock. What do you think of using high capacity gfo to control the phosphates once I get going. Also someone else on this thread suggested using neonitro and neophos?Stability is what acros like.
How stable has your system been over time?
How many fish in your system and how much do you feed?
If your nems are moving they may have stung some corals.
The orange shrooms look like disco's. They will kill any acro they touch. Ask me how I know. See my build thread.
If you have been using the same po4, no3 test kits from day one that may be part of tbe problem.
A po4 result from 0-.25 from your test kit is not accurate enough for acro systems. Get the Hanna ulr.
I use Nyos for no3 but only check it once a month.
You will get to a point when you look at your system you will know if no3 and po4 are in range.
A range of
Po4 <.1
No3<5
will work for most and its what I target from day one.
I also do not feed the corals only the fish and practice Heavy in/out.
I use an oversize skimmer to control no3 and po4 reducing media to control po4.
Without accurate testing of both you wont know which direction to go.
Their are plenty of par settings for your leds available without having to use a par meter, imo.
Here is a pic I just took of my jedi.
Look through my build as I try to keep it simple and its documented from day one and going on 2.5 years now.
You can pm me with any questions you have if you like.
Issues With keeping SPS
- Thread starter Baboon7
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X-37B
Fight The Good Fight
I use regular gfo but the HC will work. Do not use any gfo media untill you have an accurate po4 reading. Start with 1/2 reccomended dose or less and go slow.
I use a blend of 1/3 of a cup of gfo, phosgaurd, and rox carbon.
It is what works in my system with my reactor and the gfo does not clump or need to tumble.
12 fish and 2 cubes a day means you are starving your coral, imo.
Fish could use more also.
I have 15 fish and feed 8+ cubes a day.
Its only starving, if cubes of food is your only means of "feeding" your tank
ScottB
7500 Club Member
It is safe to run super low nutrients IF you are consistently feeding the fish several times a day. Or if you have a large fish load and feed enough.
I feed 4X a day for a total of 3 tablespoons frozen per day into a 140G. Plus a 1/2 sheet of nori. Over time I will build up some phosphates, but my nitrate are always between 1-2.
I feed 4X a day for a total of 3 tablespoons frozen per day into a 140G. Plus a 1/2 sheet of nori. Over time I will build up some phosphates, but my nitrate are always between 1-2.
X-37B
Fight The Good Fight
Like I said I dont "feed" my tanks. The fish feed the corals in my systems. Im not a fan of feeding the corals. My system is sps dominant.
I did not see if he fed the tank other than the fish.
I do feed my scolys once a week as it is needed.
Many do feed their systems and im good with that. Its just not what I practice or believe is needed.
ScottB
7500 Club Member
OK those numbers are fine; at least they are not the problem. Perhaps an ICP to rule out contaminants is next.
Someone asked about Vibrant use I think. None of that, right?
No never dosed vibrant. I did do a chemiclean treatment maybe a year ago but that is it. I should be getting my PAR meter in a couple of hours so I'll have PAR numbers to check now too. Is it possible that I could not be feeding enough AND still have whats some would consider being high nutrient levels?
ScottB
7500 Club Member
Honestly it did surprise me that you had that much residual with so little input. AND you seem to have pretty good export IIRC. Fleece, skim, refugium, GFO. That is a lot. Maybe your "cubes" are four time larger than mine :p
Also I am not currently running GFO but I was going to start today to get the phosphates a little lower now that I can properly test for them
RGoltz
Active Member
I agree with @ScottB that NO3 12.7 and PO4 0.11 should not be causing these types of issues. @Pistondog mentioned sending an ICP to check for contaminates which I also agree with.
One question, though. In your Mobius screenprint the light program is set to 100% but adjusted to 50% of the schedule meaning your lights are at 50%. Is this your normal setting?
One question, though. In your Mobius screenprint the light program is set to 100% but adjusted to 50% of the schedule meaning your lights are at 50%. Is this your normal setting?
Yes, this was my normal light schedule. The point intensity is at 100 but I have the overall schedule intensity at 50. I have it like this because when I tested the PAR the first time I was getting super high readings even at 50 percent. Having rented a PAR meter yesterday and testing my lights I have come to the conclusion that the first test was wildly inaccurate. I found that 65 will get about 80-100 on the sand bed and 220-300 on my highest rocks, so I am slowly adjusting my lights up to that.
RGoltz
Active Member
Interesting. Is your tank 18” wide or tall?
My tank is 48x24x24 and with two XR15 PRO yielding 70% (having already applied some method to account for not using the white channels completely) I had ~150 on the top and ~100 on the sand. FWIW I now have a third XR15 on the tank and I get 250-350 dead even with the lights yielding 80% (again deducting for the white channels). Anyways, while you have the PAR meter I recommend that you take measurements at different levels of intensity and also explore how the glass and aquascape might create high and low area of intensity. In my tank the front left sandbed is almost as high PAR as the top!
I recommend taking your time increasing the PAR. No need to rush!
If you can send an ICP, that can possibly bring out any other issues. It’s worth a shot while you are investing in troubleshooting.
Then one last thing that I have had luck with: I dose Prodibio. I felt like certain corals looked better after a few weeks. It’s worth a shot for the price on Amazon, IMO.
I have also eliminated the whites in my lights, maybe I should have added that in my OP. But my tank is 18 inches wide and 24 inches tall. I am actually getting my ICP tests in the mail today so I should get my first results in maybe a week or so. I'm then going to address anything I may be missing or that is in excess of my tank. I'm going to test all levels of intensity today before sending it back. Should I be looking for 250-350 throughout the tank, I'm looking to have a mixed reef seeing as I have a few leathers, zoas, and mushrooms already.
RGoltz
Active Member
You are running XR15 Blue (not Pro), correct? If so I believe the intention from Ecotech is to run all color channels at 100% to produce the AB+ spectrum and then only use the overall intensity. So, you likely want to bring the whites back.
Yeah i am running blues but I was getting a lot of algae on my sand bed when running the whites that's why I eliminated but maybe Ill take another look at it since I am changing the PAR anyway
I know its been mentioned a few times but I believe your lights are the problem.
White light is needed.
I would recommend turning all color channels on 100% on the xr15 blues then slowly work your schedule intensity up.
If you are getting more nuisance algae than you and your cleanup crew can handle bringing your nutrients (mainly phosphates) down will help.
However I do not recommend dumping a bunch gfo in as big changes are not good.
You may want to try some macro algae for a more gradual lowering of nutrients, this will allow you to find the sweet spot where nuisance algae grows slow but you can still detect nutrients in the water.
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