It's all @Paul B's fault... my journey to an immune reef (hopefully!)

atoll

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Yes but how long have you been using the peroxide thing? Can’t think of the name.
Nobody has ever claimed the "peroxide thing" cures a multitude diseases. Not the manufacturer nor any true scientific research. All I have claimed is it helps fish breath better. If it was a magic cure everybody would use them right.
EDIT.
There is more than one string to the bow to achieving a healthy aquarium, my Oxydator is but just one, it isn't used in isolation.
 
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jasonrusso

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Nobody has ever claimed the "peroxide thing" cures a multitude diseases. Not the manufacturer nor any true scientific research. All I have claimed is it helps fish breath better. If it was a magic cure everybody would use them right.
I must have missed it, what is the peroxide thing?
 

atoll

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Paul B

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Sooo I did QT my fish and do TT but I never gave them meds... and I always try to feed live foods a few times a week. Did I ruin my fishes ability to fight ich and disease?
I guess so being they got infected with ich. You can't really mix quarantine and non quarantine methods. You really need to pick one and stick with it.

If it were my tank I wouldn't do anything except keep feeding live foods a few times a week.

What kinds of live foods are you using? Brine shrimp ether new born or adult don't really count as I don't "think" the ones you can buy were ever in the sea and are captive bred.
 

Tamberav

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I guess so being they got infected with ich. You can't really mix quarantine and non quarantine methods. You really need to pick one and stick with it.

If it were my tank I wouldn't do anything except keep feeding live foods a few times a week.

What kinds of live foods are you using? Brine shrimp ether new born or adult don't really count as I don't "think" the ones you can buy were ever in the sea and are captive bred.

I don’t think you have all the information. Remember people run minimalistic scapes with not many hiding spots these days.
 
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Paul B

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I don’t think you have all the information.
This is true like most queries in this hobby. We rarely have all the information and nearly 100% of the time it is ambiguous anyway as there are just to many variables.
 

atoll

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I don’t think you have all the information. Remember people run minimalistic scapes with not many hiding spots these days.
Some people run tanks like that with minimalistic scapes. Tried it once didn't like it neither did my fish. Once instance in the hobby where more is more.
 

Tamberav

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Some people run tanks like that with minimalistic scapes. Tried it once didn't like it neither did my fish. Once instance in the hobby where more is more.

Ya, I think I just find it frustrating that people want to drop fish into the display and not have disease but then don't employ all the best methods to do so. Having adequate hiding spots is one part of that since it should help lower stress. It was just an example.

Yesterday I put a dry rock in my tank and took a photo to show how crazy bright and unnatural new dry rock is before anything is growing on it. It shines bright under blues.

I mostly did this as an example because another thread was talking about disease in newly cycled tanks ... what I mean is.. you add dry rock + bottled bacteria + fish in one day. I was basically pointing out how the fish are in a room full of blinding white rocks if you add them day 1 and it is probably less then ideal and may be a source of stress. It sort of looks like white pvc pipe :p


946532D9-4E97-446D-95B5-9E841E733903.jpeg


64672CB7-8646-47A4-A292-49AD2CFE6322.jpeg



I used to have a nice big rock there but it is covered in blue sponge so I moved it to a macroalgae tank for now as I don't want to end up with a tank full of sponge like @Paul B lol - I have been keeping it trimmed a bit but it does try to attach to surrounding rocks.
 

atoll

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Ya, I think I just find it frustrating that people want to drop fish into the display and not have disease but then don't employ all the best methods to do so. Having adequate hiding spots is one part of that since it should help lower stress. It was just an example.

Yesterday I put a dry rock in my tank and took a photo to show how crazy bright and unnatural new dry rock is before anything is growing on it. It shines bright under blues.

I mostly did this as an example because another thread was talking about disease in newly cycled tanks ... what I mean is.. you add dry rock + bottled bacteria + fish in one day. I was basically pointing out how the fish are in a room full of blinding white rocks if you add them day 1 and it is probably less then ideal and may be a source of stress. It sort of looks like white pvc pipe :p


946532D9-4E97-446D-95B5-9E841E733903.jpeg


64672CB7-8646-47A4-A292-49AD2CFE6322.jpeg



I used to have a nice big rock there but it is covered in blue sponge so I moved it to a macroalgae tank for now as I don't want to end up with a tank full of sponge like @Paul B lol - I have been keeping it trimmed a bit but it does try to attach to surrounding rocks.
All my rock in my current tank came from tank breakdowns. I had GHA due to the amount of nuitrents leaching out of the rock. However it ran its course and I have very little of it now.

Fish in my reef that some consider shy aren't. I have firefish that are out mid water most of the time. Same with my midas blennies and blue damsels. Other fish spend the day swimming in and out of my reefscape including Royal grammas and my 4 flameback angels. No fish dash about not even my one wrasse. They all swim in a relaxed style and manner.
 

Neptune 555

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I guess so being they got infected with ich. You can't really mix quarantine and non quarantine methods. You really need to pick one and stick with it.

If it were my tank I wouldn't do anything except keep feeding live foods a few times a week.

What kinds of live foods are you using? Brine shrimp ether new born or adult don't really count as I don't "think" the ones you can buy were ever in the sea and are captive bred.
Paul,

I am feeding live clams, newly hatched BBS, cutlured copods for the mandarin, algae strips, algae pellets, LRS reef frenzy, LRS herbivore mix, mysis, frozen blood worms (I can't locate live worms right now?) PE calanus and fish eggs. I rotate...

yes going to keep feeding and not stress my fish out. As I posted a few questions on boston reefers also - that is where I met you years ago.

What about a diatom filter or a UV sterilizer? I want to kill the ich and give my fish a fighting change but don't want to kill all the bacteria and copods?
 

Tamberav

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Paul,

I am feeding live clams, newly hatched BBS, cutlured copods for the mandarin, algae strips, algae pellets, LRS reef frenzy, LRS herbivore mix, mysis, frozen blood worms (I can't locate live worms right now?) PE calanus and fish eggs. I rotate...

yes going to keep feeding and not stress my fish out. As I posted a few questions on boston reefers also - that is where I met you years ago.

What about a diatom filter or a UV sterilizer? I want to kill the ich and give my fish a fighting change but don't want to kill all the bacteria and copods?

Can you post a full tank shot? It may help.

I answered your UV/diatom question best I could in your other thread.
 
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Neptune 555

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Can you post a full tank shot? It may help.

I answered your UV/diatom question best I could in your other thread.
Yes - thank you!! I just called my LFS to see if they could install a UV filter but they recommended seachem metroplex. I know that also won’t kill all the ich but will it help my fish survive this outbreak?
 

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Neptune 555

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And the fish most infected w ich…
 

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Tamberav

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Yes - thank you!! I just called my LFS to see if they could install a UV filter but they recommended seachem metroplex. I know that also won’t kill all the ich but will it help my fish survive this outbreak?

I would not be putting metroplex into your display. It isn't for ich as you said but could negatively impact other things you have. If you mean to feed it... it could impact their gut bacteria.

As humans you don't want to take an antibiotic 'just because' - same for fish. Actually when patients ask me for antibiotic for their virus... I think "oh so you want C. diff? C. diff is what you want?" (it is a nasty thing often caused from disruption the bacteria in your gut from antibiotics).

Use antibiotics when they are needed, such as a nasty bacterial infection. For fish, metro is for internal parasites, brook, and urenoma. Not ich.

Also UV breaks down medications anyways so you can't use both.
 
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Paul B

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What about a diatom filter or a UV sterilizer? I want to kill the ich and give my fish a fighting change but don't want to kill all the bacteria and copods?
I personally don't like UV as it will kill bacteria and only give parasites a nice tan, maybe an upset stomach. A diatom filter will "remove" not kill parasites very effectively but they are hard to get. I have a few but only one that really works. If it breaks I will have to build one.

A diatom filter will work better than TTM because it will continually remove parasites as they hatch giving the infected fish a fighting chance.

The foods you are feeding are fine. And, never use Metroplex.

Anywho I will stop junking up this thread with this gross QT talk.
Tamberav, I always like your input. :cool:
 

Neptune 555

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I personally don't like UV as it will kill bacteria and only give parasites a nice tan, maybe an upset stomach. A diatom filter will "remove" not kill parasites very effectively but they are hard to get. I have a few but only one that really works. If it breaks I will have to build one.

A diatom filter will work better than TTM because it will continually remove parasites as they hatch giving the infected fish a fighting chance.

The foods you are feeding are fine. And, never use Metroplex.


Tamberav, I always like your input. :cool:

I personally don't like UV as it will kill bacteria and only give parasites a nice tan, maybe an upset stomach. A diatom filter will "remove" not kill parasites very effectively but they are hard to get. I have a few but only one that really works. If it breaks I will have to build one.

A diatom filter will work better than TTM because it will continually remove parasites as they hatch giving the infected fish a fighting chance.

The foods you are feeding are fine. And, never use Metroplex.


Tamberav, I always like your input. :cool:
Hi Paul,
Hi Paul,

OK so a diatom filter could help give my fish a fighting chance as they build their own immunity to ich by removing the free swimming ich parasites. Below is a diatom filter I found on humble fish forum. MY QUESTION is if I run a diatom filter what does this do to my copepod population? I have been harvesting copods for my mandarin and firefish. I don't wan't to kill this population?

________________________________

LINK HERE:

This small Marineland canister filter is the DE filter I am most familiar with:

Magnum® Polishing Internal Canister Filter | Marineland®


www.marineland.com
www.marineland.com

It can be placed directly inside your sump or aquarium. I like to use these little filters for clearing bacterial blooms (cloudy water)
 

Paul B

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It will remove everything that goes into it. But most copepods will stay on the rock and bottom so most of them will not be affected. Just don't stir up everything to much. The newborn parasites should be free swimming looking for a fish so it will remove those. Copepods don't swim.
 

Neptune 555

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Hi Paul,

Do you ever purchase captive bred fish? They would not have immunity? Would they get disease when they enter your tank?
 

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