I've tried everything, any advice would help

[ScarletBegonia]

I will try to explain what is going on in a sort of timeline and put all of my most recent parameters and tests done so far at the bottom.
Aprox 80 Total G (2ftx2ftx2.5ft) 10-15G sump W Refugium (Took down a tank for someone that was running for 10 years and set it immediately back up 2 years ago=12 years total cycled) I'd like to mention life has been getting in the way so I haven't done as much as I could normally.

Aprox 3 weeks ago-I woke up in the morning to all my corals closed and a cloudy tank, invertebrates dropping like flies. I immediately did a water change of about 40%, changed filter socks, and tested parameters. All was good exept .5 ammonia and nitrates a little high at 35ppm tested before WC.

Aprox 2 weeks ago-2 or 3 occasional zoa polyps open but are slightly pale, 1 or 2 rock flowers slightly open but definitely angry. I do 2 more water changes of about 40% each over 2 days. I move most of my rock flower anemones out (6/8) and 2 zoas into a separate well cycled tank. Fish aren't as active but breathing is good and they continue to eat. Again all parameters look good except .5 ammonia and 30 ppm nitrates

Aprox 1 week ago-Heater in the sump pops, I replace immediately with a spare, then I thought it clicked....stray voltage, tested and there was nothing but that's after I replaced the heater. 2 more 30% WC. Everything still closed including the zoas and rock flowers I transfered to a separate tank. At this point I also started changing socks daily.

Today-Everything still closed including the transfered coral, fish still acting weird and slightly lethargic. Im driving myself crazy and getting discouraged but im willing to try anything.

Amonia 0.5
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Ph 8.0
Calcium 420
Phosphate 0.1
Magnesium 1350
Alk 11.2
Salinity 1.026

2 Clowns
2 Randalls Gobys with pistol shrimp
Frogspawn:Dead
Zoas:Closed
Favia:Angry
Rock Flowers:Angry

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to include everything so I can hopefully solve this before anything gets worse. I also want to note I work at an LFS incase that says anything, not sure. I will try to attach some pictures of the zoas aswell, hopefully they come through good. If any other info is needed please let me know.

 

[fandaga]

Why is the ammonia not at 0? What test kit are you using? I guess I would start with that.

Are you running carbon? Do you have a skimmer, and is it pulling anymore skimmate than usual?

I would double or even triple check salinity and check for any possible leaking magnet seals or corroded pumps.

Edit: some other ideas are to double check the RODI and WC water. Do you need to replace the filters on the RODI? Could chlorine be coming in?

 

[ScarletBegonia]

My assumption is the hidden bristle worms/inverts are keeping the amonia readable. I've used API, salifert, and hanna to check everything I can, with my go to being salifert. I forgot to add that I did add carbon on week 2. Skimmer is pulling more than usual but not running as good as I'd like (I have a simplicity 120 on the way to replace it). Salinity has been double checked on 3 separate calibrated refractometers+hydrometer. I get my water from the LFS I work at where there is a huge RODI unit with some chambers being replaced about 2 months ago and the rest looking fine giving me a consistent 0 tds on multiple testers. Equipment is all fairly new and from reputable suppliers(from what I know). Nothing looks to very worn and the seals on everything look good.

 

[FUNGI]

Just IMO.....why the alk so high? especially for LPS

 

[fandaga]

My assumption is the hidden bristle worms/inverts are keeping the amonia readable. I've used API, salifert, and hanna to check everything I can, with my go to being salifert. I forgot to add that I did add carbon on week 2. Skimmer is pulling more than usual but not running as good as I'd like (I have a simplicity 120 on the way to replace it). Salinity has been double checked on 3 separate calibrated refractometers+hydrometer. I get my water from the LFS I work at where there is a huge RODI unit with some chambers being replaced about 2 months ago and the rest looking fine giving me a consistent 0 tds on multiple testers. Equipment is all fairly new and from reputable suppliers(from what I know). Nothing looks to very worn and the seals on everything look good.

okay, I don’t have much other advice then to pull the fish and possibly inverts. It might be good to place them in another tank like a QT while you hunt down the root cause.

 

[Subsea]

“My assumption is the hidden bristle worms/inverts are keeping the amonia readable.”

“Aprox 1 week ago-Heater in the sump pops”

Considering a heater failure with stray electricity, I can see some collateral damage manifesting itself with ammonia in your tank.

 

[jsmkmavity]

And maybe copper or other metals?

 

[slingfox]

You should run an ICP test to make sure there are no obvious contaminants.

 

[DatReefGuy]

Considering a heater failure with stray electricity, I can see some collateral damage manifesting itself with ammonia in your tank.

Agree with this statement!

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I would start by doing some large water changes and possibly moving the rock out of your tank to see if there is anything dead in your tank. The fact that you are having ammonia readings along with a heater that "popped" a week ago leads me to think that stray voltage might have killed off something in your tank, causing your ammonia to rise.

 

[ScarletBegonia]

Ya im agreeing with you guys. I think stray voltage started this whole ordeal. I've double and triple checked for anything else dead and haven't found anything else. I did see a couple bristle worms out today which is something of note. It almost seems like my tank gets worse after a WC and then recovers slightly. Gonna buy a new brute trashcan for mixing my water tomorrow and most likely a new hose to. That's the only thing left I can think of trying.. I've never done an ICP test personally but I'll probably get one done for more accurate readings and anything I can't test for. Thank you guys for the help, I'll keep everyone updated. Any other recommendations are plenty welcome