OP
OP
Tek
Well-Known Member
It works great and you can't beat it at half the price of some others and replacement parts are cheap. The initial dialing in is a bit of a pain due to repeated testing and tweaking for the first week but once it is set I hardly ever worry about it. Perry is also great at answering questions if you have any issues. I actually run another one on my 70G tank.
OP
OP
Tek
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
PE is good without any fish nipping at them and flow is just about right. Some of the higher up SPS lost PE when the N03 and P04 dropped to 0 but are recovering.
I was using an Evergrow D120 but the spectrum and intensity was not good.
I switched to a RapidLed kit in Oct 2013 but had too many LEDs. I just rewired them to the recommended amount per area and lowered the intensity for a more even spread. Things seem to be back to normal and growth is picking up again.
PE is good without any fish nipping at them and flow is just about right. Some of the higher up SPS lost PE when the N03 and P04 dropped to 0 but are recovering.
I was using an Evergrow D120 but the spectrum and intensity was not good.
I switched to a RapidLed kit in Oct 2013 but had too many LEDs. I just rewired them to the recommended amount per area and lowered the intensity for a more even spread. Things seem to be back to normal and growth is picking up again.
jsalty
Community Member
this is beautiful .. thanks for sharing.I am new to marine aquariums and just purchased a JBJ 30G on Saturday (5/3/14). I filled it with 30lb pink fuji sand, 25lbs jbj cultured rock and water. do you have your heater in one of the fall areas next to the center sump or is it in the center sump? also your ATO just fills the sump till to the level of the chambers on either side of it? thanks..Jim
OP
OP
Tek
Well-Known Member
The heater is best in the chamber next to the return pumps to prevent it from being out of the water due to evaporation or ato malfunction. My center water level is just under the center dividers. I also suggest you toss the bio beads to prevent detritus buildup.
jsalty
Community Member
Thank you for your reply it has been most helpful. I moved the heater to the chamber you described last night. After I got home from work I was looking at the design back there and figured that center sump could go dry or dang close to it if I don't keep an eye on the water level (not saying i wont be but one never knows). I plan on installing an ATO this evening after I hit the LFS to pick one up on my way home tonight. Coming up with an adequate volume of water that will fit under the JBJ 30G stand may not be as easy as I would like but I always have some jugs to set up on the floor for vacations.. The 'bio beads' are the bag full of the white ceramic tubes for holding bacteria? Do you put anything else in that void? Do you use the charcoal (activated carbon) bags or replace them too? I have been told to change the carbon bags frequently, about once per month, sound right if i should be using them?thanks again for all the information.
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Looks great!
OP
OP
Tek
Well-Known Member
Carbon is best used in small amounts changed every 2 weeks. I had to remove carbon and all chemical media after the 1 year mark since the water was too clean with 0 nitrates and phosphates. My biweekly water changes were enough to keep the tank happy along with regular dosing.
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