Junior's Monster Tank Build

Poseidon

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What is your criteria for changing at 6 months? I have been overdriving and changing at 12 months. I did stagger my replacement, so I am doing one bulb every 3 months, but the bulb is in use for 12.

I do not see a degradation in growth or color replacing at 12 months, and my cooling is very simple, a single 12" fan at the end caps.

I am disputing that the cooling you are suggesting is not better, I am just asking what is the actual performance gain for the cost?
 

Mr.Firemouth

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What are the PAR readings on a 10x39w fixture?
I am still a fan of VHO.
I am thinking about dumping my 5xMH 72" light for a VHO, but this thread is turning interesting.
 

Saltysteele

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junior, i had a thread in which i discussed overdriving t5ho's with icecaps, with dlberlin at the other place.

i couldn't find the thread, and i don't remember the combination, but you are able to overdrive T5ho's with icecaps way over just the 54w, seems like she was telling me how to drive them near 100w's (which you would have to cool them), and she said they are very, very bright.

maybe deb can help here, as my memory is vague of the discussion and i cannot find the thread.
 

Poseidon

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T5's put out more lumens then a VHO bulbs does, by a long shot. If you were going to dump halides, then go T5, not VHO.

IceCap 660 drives a 54W T5 bulb to 80W, and YES, they are very bright.

I guess I will have to take a picture of my elaborate cooling system for my overdriven T5's, it seems to be that what is required versus what is recommended.
 

bamachamp92

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wont using 36" bulbs running the length of the tank leave large shadows where they are blocked by the tank braces?



Junior, i dont think you are going to see shadows the good thing about t5 light is it is not coming from one point like halides so there are less shadows. I have an 8 foot tank so I was using 2 four foot fixtures to light it, i got a 8 bulb t5 to put on one side and i liked it ok but no shimmer. But there was not a shadow from the eurobracing. That being said I now have 4 250 radiums and my sps are already getting more color in 3 weeks than they had under t5s after 3 months.
 
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Ok, so i was tired of seeing everyone with their cool CAD drawings of all the systems...so i downloaded Google Sketch, and had some fun. Be nice, its my first time doing anything even close to 3D CAD.

The drawing is crude, but you get the idea.

First, the section with the skimmer will be where the display tank, frag tank, and turn key water change return line will tie in.

The second, will be the fuge.

The third will be the return pump intake, heater, and any other media bla bla bla.

You will notice that there is plumbing going into each baffled area. These will have 90 degree elbows, facing up, with strainers in both the fuge and skimmer area. All will have ball valves coming right out of the bulkhead. A feed line in each baffled area is needed so each area will drain. Otherwise the return area would drain, leaving the other completely full.....not making for a very big water change.

The Return pump will be a hammerhead or similar with strong head pressure. There will be a manifold with 4 lines. 2 returning to the display, 1 to the frag tank, and a 4th for turn key water change.

The ball valves will all be opened when doing a water change to allow more water to be drawn from the sump. The return lines will all be closed except the 4th line, that will "return" the water directly to the laundry sink, on the other side of the basement.

Then valves in the fuge, and skimmer areas will be closed back up.

There will also be 60 gallon or larger storage container with a small external pump that will circulate salt water until ready. It will be split into 2 return lines. One going back into the storage tank, and one that will tie into the drain area of the sump. The recirculation valve will be closed, and the return valve opened. Feeding fresh saltwater right back into the sump.

There you have it. Flip a few valves, and instant water change.

The return area of the sump is farthest away only because where everything is going to be located, its easier to bring the drain lines into a common corner, rather than clutter up the area below the tank. Which would limit access to the fuge, and skimmer.

MockupSumproughdraft.jpg


MockupSumproughtdraft1-2.jpg
 

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Not bad, I think you could eliminate 2 baffles (1 from each side), unless your planning on a DSB in the center.

Junior, Are you going with the skimmer we talked about a little while ago?
 

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Your using a Hammerhead... hmmm
What about putting the Fuge where the skimmer is now and have your drains dump into the center section instead? You can feed the Fuge with a T off one of the drains & that way you can control the amount of water processed by it.

I work with Sketchup alot when designing sumps, Great program.
 

ofblong

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wow makes me realize I need to do some more thinking the next time I do a tank with sump.
 
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JuniorMC8704

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Your using a Hammerhead... hmmm
What about putting the Fuge where the skimmer is now and have your drains dump into the center section instead? You can feed the Fuge with a T off one of the drains & that way you can control the amount of water processed by it.

I work with Sketchup alot when designing sumps, Great program.

want to sketch up a simple simple drawing of what you are proposing. I am following it for the most part, but unsure of # of baffles, and location.

my skimmer plans are still where they were before....torn between BK300 internal, and ATB medium with Airstar, or large with airstar.
 

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want to sketch up a simple simple drawing of what you are proposing. I am following it for the most part, but unsure of # of baffles, and location.

my skimmer plans are still where they were before....torn between BK300 internal, and ATB medium with Airstar, or large with airstar.

Here is an older/incomplete sump design, but it is exactly what I'm trying to explain and you can get the general idea.

He wanted to run a DSB/Fuge so we started with this-
semi-RDSB/Fuge, Center Drain, 1st section big enough for ATB Med or BK SM-250 & media reactor, 3 baffles for bubble reduction, & the Return section

"I'm just giving you sand, you make the castle"..
Funny, You & Him have similar taste in equipment- (He went w/3x400w MH's though)

Tonysump-1.jpg


Tonysump-2.jpg
 
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JuniorMC8704

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yeah, that would work too.

The only thing is im working from an existing acrylic 180 tank. So may be running into some problems.

I may have to revert to having a custom made from scratch.

Ill keep everyone posted.
 
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JuniorMC8704

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Decided to go back to my roots, and go with 3 400 watt radiums in luminarc reflectors.

Here is a quick drawing of what my light rack will look like. A few cross braces are missing, but you get the idea.

It will hold 3 luminarcs, and 8 36" T5's...also, if i can fit them, a couple profilux simulight bars.

The entire rack will be on a motorized pulley system.

LIGHTRACKTANK.jpg


LIGHTRACK.jpg
 

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How much will a setup like that cost?

Have you seen/considered the new Lumen Max Elites?
 

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If you have room I would throw a couple of VHO Actinics in there. T5's are getting close but don't quite match the *pop*, Giesemann Actinic Pure's are almost there but really dim & would be washed out by the MH's.
 

Saltysteele

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true, on the vho actinic's

have yet to see anything that can make the water "thick" looking like the actinic's

when i switch to T5 HO's, i'll still probably have a couple actinic vho's :haha:

man, junior, this is going to be a SWEET tank!

given any thought as to the rockscaping?
 
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the new aqua science bulbs from fauna marin blow the doors off anything ive ever seen (ive seen a lot).

the 22k bulbs are insane....no better word to describe.

VHO's are an option, but i think its old technology IMHO.

The plan would be to over drive these T5's and really make it crazy...
 

How much do you care about having a display FREE of wires, pumps and equipment?

  • Want it squeaky clean! Wires be danged!

    Votes: 70 44.6%
  • A few things are ok with me!

    Votes: 73 46.5%
  • No care at all! Bring it on!

    Votes: 14 8.9%
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