Junior's Monster Tank Build

[JuniorMC8704]

Dont apologize for for posting pics. I love seeing pics. Pics are the proof!

Those are some real nice fixtures. Any idea what the cost?

I was actually thinking about the cooling last night.

My thought was to build a 3 sided tunnel only about 4" wide that would run along the front and back (over the end caps) an put 4" fan at each end (one pulling air in, one pushing air out).

What i dont like about having the fixtures is the 2 large braces over the top of tank. That would for sure leave a shadow into the tank. That is what im trying to avoid.

Im not looking for overdrive the T5's, atleast not all of them. I also am considering dimmable ballasts as i have the profilux controller, and think it might be cool to be able to simulate cloud cover, rain, and electrical storms. Also sunrise and sunset with a procolor bulb or two.

Id like to hear everyones thoughts, please keep them coming.

thanks

 

[BShells]

What about running 24" T5's. You could definitely get a combo of different directions using 24" bulbs, and you could very easily avoid the shadows, depending on how you set them up.

 

[JuniorMC8704]

Also thought about that....the only problem is 24" 36" and 48" bulbs from aqua science are all the same price.....i would be spending a fortune on bulbs....

What about running 24" T5's. You could definitely get a combo of different directions using 24" bulbs, and you could very easily avoid the shadows, depending on how you set them up.

 

[Poseidon]

I didn't mention the total wattage for watts per gallon, only as a measure of power usage. Watts per gallon is USELESS period.

Workhorse ballasts don't over drive either, they are spec, at least I am pretty sure they are.

As for cooling, your tank is in the basement, and you will have a ton of water volume, I'd be surprised if you needed any active water cooling at all. I'm thinking the tank will actually warm the basement by a few degrees, but if you had to cool the tank at all, the easiest thing for you to do would be to put your sump right on the concrete floor, provided it is level. This will turn your floor into a heat sink, and cool the heck out of the tank.

What are you going to do for humidity? I need to add an exhaust fan to go with my dehumidifier, mostly because I don't have any windows in the basement.

 

[BShells]

Also thought about that....the only problem is 24" 36" and 48" bulbs from aqua science are all the same price.....i would be spending a fortune on bulbs....

Yeah, it would be expensive, but you would need so many of them, that you could probably work out a bulk deal with a retailer and get your replacement bulbs upfront at a discount.

 

[JuniorMC8704]

im going to install a very large exhaust fan that will dump outside from a window inside the fishroom.

Im hoping and praying to not need a dehumidier...i fried 2 already, and they are crazy expensive to run 24 hours a day...

I didn't mention the total wattage for watts per gallon, only as a measure of power usage. Watts per gallon is USELESS period.

Workhorse ballasts don't over drive either, they are spec, at least I am pretty sure they are.

As for cooling, your tank is in the basement, and you will have a ton of water volume, I'd be surprised if you needed any active water cooling at all. I'm thinking the tank will actually warm the basement by a few degrees, but if you had to cool the tank at all, the easiest thing for you to do would be to put your sump right on the concrete floor, provided it is level. This will turn your floor into a heat sink, and cool the heck out of the tank.

What are you going to do for humidity? I need to add an exhaust fan to go with my dehumidifier, mostly because I don't have any windows in the basement.

 

[JuniorMC8704]

I still havent rules out halides just yet, but id love to avoid them.

I suppose if i went with T5's, and hated the result, i could tear the lights down an put halides up.

Seems likenew T5 retro kits hold their value pretty good.

 

[JuniorMC8704]

Those ATI fixtures are awesome, but i dont know if 10 bulbs are enough for 36"

Maybe im crazy....:tongue:

 

[Zombo]

<whispering>DIY LED lighting....</whispering>

 

[JuniorMC8704]

LOL, id love to, but with money as tight as it is, not willing to take the risk of it not getting the job done.

<whispering>DIY LED lighting....</whispering>

 

[ConcreteReefer]

10 bulb would be more than enough, People tend to underestimate the power of the PM.
I would seriously consider the ATI PM option over the retro- If your not happy with it (highly doubt but still a possibility) resale on the PM's is close to retail unlike retro kits which usually sell for 1/2 the cost of new.

Your looking at $2200 for the ATI & $2127 for 24 bulb 36" IceCap retro.
The IceCap retro will have to be wired/installed and then your going to have to design a
cooling system to keep your temp down, so add a few hundred right there.

ATI= $2200 Plug & Play (well almost, you have to hang the lights)
IceCap 24bulb= $2327 ($200 for cooling) + at least 6-9 hours of installation

The choice is pretty clear to me..

 

[ConcreteReefer]

I didn't mention the total wattage for watts per gallon, only as a measure of power usage. Watts per gallon is USELESS period.

Workhorse ballasts don't over drive either, they are spec, at least I am pretty sure they are.

I was talking about IceCap ballast

As for cooling, your tank is in the basement, and you will have a ton of water volume, I'd be surprised if you needed any active water cooling at all. I'm thinking the tank will actually warm the basement by a few degrees, but if you had to cool the tank at all, the easiest thing for you to do would be to put your sump right on the concrete floor, provided it is level. This will turn your floor into a heat sink, and cool the heck out of the tank.

What are you going to do for humidity? I need to add an exhaust fan to go with my dehumidifier, mostly because I don't have any windows in the basement.

I don't know if your referring to my ducted cooling, if so I was talking about the T5's and not the actual water. T5's have to be cooled correctly to provide optimal output & bulb life.

 

[JuniorMC8704]

wont using 36" bulbs running the length of the tank leave large shadows where they are blocked by the tank braces?

 

[Ian]

What is the correct way to cool the t5s? At the endcaps or the length of the bulbs?

 

[Hopkins]

What is the correct way to cool the t5s? At the endcaps or the length of the bulbs?

A fan positioned at the end caps blowing all the way down the bulbs. This is the recommended way to increase bulb life, especially when over driven.

 

[ConcreteReefer]

wont using 36" bulbs running the length of the tank leave large shadows where they are blocked by the tank braces?

I doubt it, How many braces are you putting on the tank? And what size are they?

You could always get 3x 36" 6 or 8 bulb PM's & run them F->B Instead of side to side.

Whichever route you take, The PM is not that much more $$ than doing a T5 VHO retro.

$2200 for 3 x 36" 6 bulb PM's (w/bulbs)
$2500 for 3 x 36" 8 bulb PM's (w/bulbs)

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

For the lighting you should get a PAR meter.
They are awesome to determine if the PAR is too low or high cuz as mentioned watts per gallon is a worthless way of checking.
My club has one, check around locally.
Anything over 500 PAR is going to cause some bleaching until things acclimate.
As you go deeper into the tank the numbers will get lower and you won't have to worry as much about bleaching or burning.

 

[Poseidon]

wont using 36" bulbs running the length of the tank leave large shadows where they are blocked by the tank braces?

My center brace leaves a shadow that is noticeable in full tank pictures, but it is much less noticeable in person. Your tank will have 3 braces right?

10 bulbs over 36 will DEFINITELY be plenty, it is the same proportion as I use on my 90. (5 over 18", though 4 of mine are overdriven, I replace them at 12 months)

 

[Poseidon]

I was talking about IceCap ballast

Yes, IC do overdrive, I have a 660 on my T5's.

I don't know if your referring to my ducted cooling, if so I was talking about the T5's and not the actual water. T5's have to be cooled correctly to provide optimal output & bulb life.

I didn't know if you meant bulbs or water, cooling the bulbs is a LOT easier then cooling the tank, not to mention costs a lot less!

 

[ConcreteReefer]

Yes, IC do overdrive, I have a 660 on my T5's.

Yeah, Thats what I was saying. The ATI powermodule uses spec ballast & does not overdrive the bulbs like an IceCap would.

I didn't know if you meant bulbs or water, cooling the bulbs is a LOT easier then cooling the tank, not to mention costs a lot less!

I'm talking more about extending bulb-life & Intensity, Changing 24 bulbs every 6 months would be a PITA & very expensive.

To get the maximum bulb life & par T5's must be cooled correctly. Having a fan blow over the bulbs is not the way. Ducted cooling directs airflow keeping the Endcaps cool and this is what you want, Keeping them too cool can be conterproductive as well thats why ATI using variable speed fans is the best way to control temp.